Engine issues

I have tested the TPS on a 302 before, many many times with my voltmeter, I just didn't know what the output voltage is supposed to be on the 4.6.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Same, its rhe same EEC-IV.
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Duh. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks for the reminder. I already have a new TPS, so if this one checks out bad then I will have it ready to replace.

One thing that still bugs me is that when I unplugged the MAF it did nothing good or bad to the motor, somehow that doesn't seem right....
 
So I pulled the TB to get to the TPS and it seems my TB gasket was deteriorated very very bad. I had to order a new gasket and didn't get a chance to test the TPS yet, so hopefully tomorrow I will have the time...
 
Well not so good news today, got the new TB gasket on and a new TPS and now the car won't even start.... It was dark when I did it but I'm 95% sure everything is right. I know it's getting fuel, I held the schrader valve in while I had someone turn the key on and it seemed like if the hood wasn't there the gas would've shot 30 ft. in the air. I know that's not a real FP reading, but damn if that's not enough to get it started. I'm gonna double check everything tomorrow in the daylight and after that I"m not sure where else to look or what to do.
 
when checking fuel on a efi car you also need to make sure the injectors are firing. just listen for them when turning the key.

but you have something else going on major for it not to want to rev.

did you jump the eeciv connector and try for codes?

also make sure the cps is still connected. that is the culprit for my only fail to start.
 
zmt325 said:
when checking fuel on a efi car you also need to make sure the injectors are firing. just listen for them when turning the key.

but you have something else going on major for it not to want to rev.

did you jump the eeciv connector and try for codes?

also make sure the cps is still connected. that is the culprit for my only fail to start.
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I am under the understanding that you can only jump the pins in the test connector for EEC-IV and pull codes if the CEL is already on....

I did not check on the injectors, I will listen for them when I go at it again tomorrow.

I am going to try and unplug the CPS and plug it back in and see what happens also.
 
ForeverScrewed said:
I am under the understanding that you can only jump the pins in the test connector for EEC-IV and pull codes if the CEL is already on....

I did not check on the injectors, I will listen for them when I go at it again tomorrow.

I am going to try and unplug the CPS and plug it back in and see what happens also.
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There are active codes and stored codes.
 
I did a KOEO and got no codes at all, so I decided to go back to some of the basics and check for spark. Turns out I was getting no spark from the passenger side coil pack and the plugs were fouled out.
 
ForeverScrewed said:
I did a KOEO and got no codes at all, so I decided to go back to some of the basics and check for spark. Turns out I was getting no spark from the passenger side coil pack and the plugs were fouled out.
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do you have spare coils?
 
So even with the new coil still nothing. Still won't even start. I pulled the plugs and they were all black and soaked with gas. Cleaned them up and no change. I don't know what the hell is going on here.....
 
So I was thinking of another scenario because this issue is really besting me.....

While messing around with the car, I turned the inertia switch off(or I guess it would be ON) , tried to start it, and of course it would crank over and start for about 10 seconds, until it ran out of fuel....

Turn the inertia switch back off, and it would not start back up. It would crank and crank but it just wouldn't fire.

Now, earlier I had pulled all the plugs and they were soaked with gas. Now, I'm not sure how I would test this theory, but I am thinking maybe the FPR is letting in more fuel than needed and causing a "flooding" condition, soaking the plugs with gas and preventing spark.

I have removed the vacuum line from the FPR and theres no gas in it, so I ruled that out early on...


Maybe it's just wishful thinking, but does this seem like a plausible idea?
 
dude i wish you were closer we could just swap parts over till we figured it out.

rent a fuel pressure tester from orileys or vatozone and you will get your answer. iirc 30 psi is ideal.

are you getting spark now?
it really sounds like a major vac leak though
 
Yea me to LOL

The only reading I will be able to get is while I'm trying to crank the car. Still not getting any codes either. Tomorrow I'll get the fuel pressure gauge and we'll see what happens....
 
I'm about to leave to go buy a fuel pressure test kit. Also going to do some more diagnostics today . I'm going to check the fuel pressure while cranking, check voltage to the coils, if the coils have voltage I'm going to re-check each plug for spark, and I'm going to (try) to get the exhaust unbolted from the manifold to see if it cranks up then. I will post results as soon as I can...
 
Ok, so I went and bought the digital code reader and I finally got some codes....

Got code 542 - Fuel pump secondary circuit fault

and 211 - Profile Ignition pickup fault

I'm searching now to see what these mean, and then I'm going to run the fuel pressure test.

Ran the FP test, at turning the key "ON" I get 40 PSI, tried to crank it and it ran for about 5 seconds maintaining 40 psi the whole time.
 
Getting 12.77 volts at the connector to both coils. Going to re-check each plug for spark now.
 
ForeverScrewed said:
Getting 12.77 volts at the connector to both coils. Going to re-check each plug for spark now.
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run a compression test while your at it. and if you need an ecm to test with i have one pulled but you can not keep it.

and i think i have a spare fuel pump relay.
 
Any idea on the 211 code?

And wouldn't the fuel pressure reading almost rule out a fuel related issue?
 
I FIGURED IT OUT!!!! The cats were clogged dammit. I was trying to start it and had my brother hold his hand by the exhaust, and he felt nothing coming out when I was trying to crank.... So we cut the pipe just behind the cats(we DID NOT remove or actually tamper with them) And it started right up. Blew all kinds of :q:q:q:q out, but it now runs and idles awesome. Guess it's time to get the true duals I always wanted on this beast.
 
ForeverScrewed said:
I FIGURED IT OUT!!!! The cats were clogged dammit. I was trying to start it and had my brother hold his hand by the exhaust, and he felt nothing coming out when I was trying to crank.... So we cut the pipe just behind the cats(we DID NOT remove or actually tamper with them) And it started right up. Blew all kinds of :q:q:q:q out, but it now runs and idles awesome. Guess it's time to get the true duals I always wanted on this beast.
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If you cut the pipes behind the cats how did that show you the CATS where bad? Or are you saying the 3rd cat was the problem, which I can only take by your post?
 
As soon as I cut the chunks out from behind the 2 primary cats inside of the pipes I cut were full of crap from where the pipe reduces after the cats. As soon as it started it blew chunks out of the cats as well, I'm not saying that there weren't clogs down the line as well, but what I did seemed to fix the problem.

I also ran codes again once the car warmed and I only got the pass code so all seems well, I just need to get a new exhaust.
 
Oh ok got you now. Remember if front cats are broken up that abrasive cat material gets sucked into engine and kills the rings. So watch for oil usage after fixing.
 
Right on the Mark said:
Oh ok got you now. Remember if front cats are broken up that abrasive cat material gets sucked into engine and kills the rings. So watch for oil usage after fixing.
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Didn't know that, thanks for the heads up. I'm not planning on driving it anywhere 'till it all gets fixed, new cats and all.
 
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