Any shop worth it's salt will have the gauges required. Generally speaking, the equipment required can be had for under $200... Professional quality obviously runs considerably higher than that, but as you can see... there is no excuse to not have the abilities to properly diagnose engine problems related to compression when you can get "consumer" quality equipment for so cheap.
Yeah thanks for the info I might have to try and get some of this equipment to run those tests later on. But my best bet right now would have to be going to a shop and having it done since it shouldn't take long to do right?
Yeah I got ya on that. Once I get both of those tests run can you give me some idea of what I might expect if they find something wrong in one or both of those tests?
Would that mean that I don't have a dead cylinder and it could be corrected some other way or would it just confirm that I do have a dead cylinder.
I will hopefully get both of those tests run in the next few days and let you all know what the results are. I have to go pick up the report from the diag on my car from the first shop to see if they say which cylinder is dead or if it will give me any information at all. I will keep you all posted.
It depends on how the results pan out. If it fails a dry compression test, but passes a wet test, that means whatever cylinder it fails on either the walls are worn or the rings. If it fails both a dry and wet test, your problems are most likely head related and would only require re-worked head/new head.
Alright I just picked up the work order from the first shop that I put the car into. And it says "Has Dead Cylinder--Coolant Mixing With Oil--Engine Very Noisey--Overheating"
and that's all that the work order says about it. Let me know what you think about this and I will post what the second shop tells me and whats on the work order for them sometime monday when i get to bring the car in.
Going back to original topic, I have had good luck with with "Lucas", fuel injector cleaner, a gasoline additive. I had some engine hesitation similar to the bad coils on plug issues. This worked, and I add 4-5 ounces every 500 miles or so.
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