EGR delete

Gen2 is likely easier. Should be able to remove the EGR valve, buy or build a block-off plate and bolt on with a gasket. Remove the EGR tube and cap off EGR port on exhaust manifold. Then you would want to disable the EGR in the chip to prevent a CEL.

Install a PCV oil separator along with the EGR delete and your intake will thank you. :)
 
Yes

buddylee said:
is the erg a power robbing smog option?
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Anything that trys to recirculate unburnt hydrocarbons and contaminate the incoming charge is a power robber. Makes the tailpipe sniffers think that the car is running cleaner when in fact it is not.
 
PCV oil separator

PCV oil separator?? wtf?? what is that?
also what is the difference in an EGR delete on a Gen 1 Mark??
 
we don't have emissions here either, if it really helps that much i could be interested in deleting it from my gen 1.
 
At first I was going to object due to the likelihood of altering very fine tuned driveability characteristics.... and I do think one of our "Alvins" (Chip Monks!) should review the ECU setup to determine if when it calls for EGR it does something odd with the other intake-side fuel system dynamics....

I think the key is to "dummy" the system - drawing clean, fresh air into the EGR circuit. That way you won't pollute your throttle body/intake system with carbon, oil residue etc etc etc and not alter the engine's expectation of a bit of sideflow bleed air from the EGR.

Stop me if I'm not making sense..... but I'd say KEEP the EGR valve etc....just separate it from the dirty exhaust! Put it in a nice, warm, filtered spot and suck clean air in when the car wants to go EGR. A teensy little airbox with a filter would probably work just fine....
 
and I do think one of our "Alvins" (Chip Monks!) should review the ECU setup to determine if when it calls for EGR it does something odd with the other intake-side fuel system dynamics....
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Warm Cruise
We have come to a point where we are happy with our speed and want to just cruise into the sunset. What sounds easy turns out to be one of the most in-depth strategies we use. It is assumed that we citizens spend most of our time at cruise (yeah right), so we need the lowest emissions, highest economy, and moderate power at this time. The only good thing of warm cruise is that engine conditions are stable and need the least amount of safety nets. We still have the throttle air bypass at 100% in preparation for future braking. Fuel is stabilized with the switching of the HEGO; it cycles about 10-20 times a second. To do this the fuel ratio is leaned and enriched slightly each time the HEGO switches from lean to rich. It’s like a high wire act, balancing fuel for maximum economy. EGR is operational allowing more timing with less fear of detonation. EGR also lowers the amount of oxygen in the mixture by about 15%; this means we don’t need as much fuel. The canister purge valve is opened to ingest fuel vapors, this allows us to cut back on fuel metering slightly more and prevents fuel vapors from escaping to the atmosphere. Timing can be advanced to increase engine temperature and counteract EGR influence upon igniting combustion gasses. Timing is used to control engine temps, hotter engines burn fuel more completely. And for the fuel that wasn’t burned in the combustion chamber, we need extra airflow pumped into the exhaust system. This air with the heat of the exhaust creates further break down of HC, CO, and Nox into CO2, H2O, and N2. The catalytic converter can accept all of the airflow without fear of over heating during cruise. The converter is cooled by air passing under the vehicle.

http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=64

also what is the difference in an EGR delete on a Gen 1 Mark??
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Location. It is much easier to get to on a Gen2.

PCV oil separator?? wtf?? what is that?
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... oil separator kit reduces detonation, oil burning and deposits on the valves by removing oil drawn through the PCV system before it can contaminate the intake charge.

http://www.steeda.com/PR/Mustang/PR/555-3710.htm
 
Looks like a filter that you use on air compressors just smaller... I wonder if anyone can come up with a cheaper part to do this.
 
I was thinking the same thing. A housing for desicant and 3/8" fittings. I haven't looked at Harbor Freight yet, but thats what it looks like to me.
 
Staffamerica74 said:
Hey driller where did you mount it?
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Drivers side strut cover, right where the diagnostic connector is. I relocated the diagnostic connector underneath the strut cover and mounted the separator in it's place with a custom made bracket. Close enough to the PCV valve to use short lengths of hose to plumb in series with the PCV valve.
 
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