ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
The top of my dryer just BLEW OFF...WTF?!
Dryer Explosion
- Thread starter ridindirrty
- Start date
JoshMcMadMac
Dedicated LVC Member
It happens when they get old and brittle. Get a new one for ~$40.
Nova Prime
Well-Known LVC Member
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
Yeah, but the thing didn't break...it must have been so deformed from being over pressure that the lid blew out. No cracks or damage. i put the guts back in, screwed the lid back on. My compressor has been working overtime lately and i'll be damned if i could figure why. It's like the car couldn't get to the height it wants to. If i yank up on the front wheelwell it kicks out. I read somewhere in one of these postings about the top blowing off these things but i just can't find it now. something about a clog or saturation of the dessicant. Any leads would be appreciated. What a pain.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
That's what happens when you put 90lbs of clothes in a 40lbs capacity dryer
LOL!
I've worked on soooo many air compressor dryers that the above reply NEVER came across my mind until today!
Thanks ... I needed that!
As for a solution, do what Josh said but make SURE SURE SURE it's the same type of dryer. there are THREE types. Do NOT let the seller convince you to, "just grind off the little tab" or modify it in any any any way. "You modified it? You own it" Send them a picture of the BOTTOM of the dryer if you have to. THAT is where the differences come in.
If your comressor has been working orvertime (until it trips the CHECK SUSPENSION light) then you have a leak in the system. Our compressors, when old, will heat up and cause the dryers to SEPARATE and not EXPLODE due to over pressurization. There are many other points that are much weaker and that would blow BEFORE the threaded top of our dryers.
Search here for LEAK TEST.
If i yank up on the front wheelwell it kicks out.
What do you mean kicks out..
Rather than a leak, while that's possible along with another fault, it sounds more like air can't flow past the dryer and into the air lines.. like something's clogged up or wheel solenoids are not getting power and not opening..
The pumped air isn't getting into the air springs, the frame doesn't rise, so one (or more) of the height indicators is always telling the pump to keep pumping. The dryer gets over pressurized.
(I wonder if the dryers are built to safely pop open without much damage rather than explode..)
It seems to me that you'd have to notice that one or more corners of the car is running really high or low... Broken height sensors might never register properly, so the pump keeps on a-pumping, trying to raise a corner forever...
Do the 10 point suspension test... ground the pigtail on the on-off switch in the trunk. Get in the front seat.. all doors closed.. Turn the key to RUN.. don't touch anything else. The blinking lamp says you are ready to start the tests.
Open and close the driver door to enter test #1.
Details are in the manual.. otherwise the whole procedure was outlined in one of my prior posts, about 2 or 3 months ago.. might still be on this page somewhere down there.
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
Thanks...I'm leaning towards the idea of the dryer itself being clogged. It seems to me that the front end of the car just can't quite get to the predetermined ride height. Since it requires signifigantly more pressure to raise the front of the car than the rear it seems plausible that enough pressure was getting through to raise the rear but not the front. Like i said, If i manually give a pull on the wheelwell the compressor will shut off (ie it has NOW achieved it's predetermined ride height.
Another note...I recently had a bunch of front end work done on the car, new balljoints, tie rod ends, end links etc. Since this work was done the nose has been struggling to reach correct ride height hence the compressor running on endlessly. Maybe if my compressor is weak it's having trouble overcoming the forces acting upon it vis-a-vs the tighter front end? It was in a pretty sad state before those parts were replaced.
I put the dryer back together without the beads and drove it for one day. Initially the system was acting a bit wonky...rear end OVER height and very stiff. Eventually it seemed to settle down and was behaving pretty much normally. Like when i first bought the car. Could this be because the source of the blockage (the saturated beads) has been blown out?
Another note...I recently had a bunch of front end work done on the car, new balljoints, tie rod ends, end links etc. Since this work was done the nose has been struggling to reach correct ride height hence the compressor running on endlessly. Maybe if my compressor is weak it's having trouble overcoming the forces acting upon it vis-a-vs the tighter front end? It was in a pretty sad state before those parts were replaced.
I put the dryer back together without the beads and drove it for one day. Initially the system was acting a bit wonky...rear end OVER height and very stiff. Eventually it seemed to settle down and was behaving pretty much normally. Like when i first bought the car. Could this be because the source of the blockage (the saturated beads) has been blown out?
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
Supplemental
Oh, by the way...I refilled the dryer with freshly baked beads and put her back together last night. So far so good (fingers crossed). A rebuilt compressor/dryer is on order from American Air Suspension. Top notch customer service, very pleasant to deal with . Customer service here in Canada doesen't even come close.
Oh, by the way...I refilled the dryer with freshly baked beads and put her back together last night. So far so good (fingers crossed). A rebuilt compressor/dryer is on order from American Air Suspension. Top notch customer service, very pleasant to deal with
. Customer service here in Canada doesen't even come close.Oh, by the way...I refilled the dryer with freshly baked beads and put her back together last night. So far so good (fingers crossed). A rebuilt compressor/dryer is on order from American Air Suspension. Top notch customer service, very pleasant to deal with
i talked to the guy at american once.. yeah, nice guy.
...ike i said, If i manually give a pull on the wheelwell the compressor will shut off....
Naturally, if you lift the front corner, that height sensor gets stretched out, just as if the air spring lifted it, and the pump shuts off.
This doesn't mean much.. the height sensors have a lot of "slop". .. kinda like a home heating thermostat.. temperature is set exactly, but it has a "range" to turn on and off.
Sure, the system shuts off, but only because you messed with it. It won't re-pump until that sensor detects a LOW condition. Sit on that corner of the car and the pump might start running again.
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...I recently had a bunch of front end work done on the car, new balljoints, tie rod ends, end links etc. Since this work was done the nose has been struggling to reach correct ride height hence the compressor running on endlessly...
ummm... did they know how the suspension system works? Might this trouble be as simple as readjusting the height sensors to reflect the new "normal" body height?
I can picture where all of this may be nothing more than the car's inability to reach (what it thinks is) the proper body height, so the pump can shut off.
Check the height sensors.. see if all three of them are even connected, both electrically and physically.
If you need info on adjusting them, ask.. i'll look it up in the manual.
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[edit]]
On further deliberation i don't see how any single component could cause this. A leak alone would do everything except pop the dryer can (assuming it popped due to high pressure. So I'm leaning towards a combination of things.
All that work on the front end allows for a lot of possible problems.
There could be a crossed connection, like the front solenoids or height sensors are electrically switched. The dryer is a common manifold so it doesn't matter where those hoses go...
Wet desiccant in the dryer won't prevent air flow.. it just won't catch atmospheric moisture. Wet air will encourage things downstream to rust..
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Again I suggest you do the 10 step suspension test. It's designed to diagnose exactly the sorta problems you have. It tests height sensors. It checks solenoids, both on the wheels and in the pump... It isolates component operations and can pinpoint the trouble.
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
I get that but doesen't it seem like it would get there itself if the pump was delivering the kind of pressure necessary?
Actually yes. This particular mechanic understands the system quite well. I personally got under the car when it was on the hoist and did a visual on the height sensors. No obvious signs of damage. The front ones are set in the middle position. I considered the idea of extending them to the most outward position so the car wouldn't try to get the front quite so high.
As far as i'm aware none of those things have to be messed with in order to do balljoints and tie rod ends. He was very careful not to hyperextend the height sensors etc. He knows it doesen't take much to upset this system. Of course i can't GUARANTEE this...but i have to take him on his word at this point. He's always been fair with me and stands behind his work. I do what i can myself but i can't do that kind of work in my apartment parking lot.
Very unpleasant thought.
The system is simple when you think about, but it's still a brain twister.. which is probably why the car has a built-in diagnostics routine... one that requires no tools and could easily be done in a level parking spot..
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What would happen if everything except that front (left?) wheel solenoid were operating normally? Suppose that solenoid were closed (as it is by default) but is defective and won't open, allowing air to pass..
I think this would happen:
The L front height sensor says the corner is low. The system detects this and sends power to the Main solenoid, the pump, and the wheel solenoid.
The pump goes on, air passes through the main solenoid and into the dryer, and into the F Left air line. There it stops. Air can't get into the F Left air spring. It's solenoid is closed and won't allow it.
The pump keeps pumping since the height sensor tells the system that the corner is still low. Pressure builds.. the pump keeps pumping.
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I don't think there's anything in the system that tells the pump to stop pumping under those circumstances.. no pump overheating sensor.. no over-pressure sensor.
If the system is tight, pressure might just build and build in the 4 air lines and in the dryer until... something pops.
Ironically, a slight leak somewhere in the system might prevent what you experienced (the dryer popping open).
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One of the ten tests isolates that wheel solenoid's operation. It makes that F Left solenoid "click" open and closed without the pump running. You can hear it click once per second... and you know it's either working or it's not.
The tests do require some logical analysis on your part. For instance, that particular test occurs when that air spring is full of air. The solenoid clicks open and closed (meaning it is electrically OK) AND that corner of the car should drop (meaning air is actually passing through, and the solenoid is mechanically OK.
Solenoids are electro-mechanical. There must be air in that spring to test the solenoid's mechanical operation.
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What would happen if everything except that front (left?) wheel solenoid were operating normally? Suppose that solenoid were closed (as it is by default) but is defective and won't open, allowing air to pass..
I think this would happen:
The L front height sensor says the corner is low. The system detects this and sends power to the Main solenoid, the pump, and the wheel solenoid.
The pump goes on, air passes through the main solenoid and into the dryer, and into the F Left air line. There it stops. Air can't get into the F Left air spring. It's solenoid is closed and won't allow it.
The pump keeps pumping since the height sensor tells the system that the corner is still low. Pressure builds.. the pump keeps pumping.
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I don't think there's anything in the system that tells the pump to stop pumping under those circumstances.. no pump overheating sensor.. no over-pressure sensor.
If the system is tight, pressure might just build and build in the 4 air lines and in the dryer until... something pops.
Ironically, a slight leak somewhere in the system might prevent what you experienced (the dryer popping open).
------------
One of the ten tests isolates that wheel solenoid's operation. It makes that F Left solenoid "click" open and closed without the pump running. You can hear it click once per second... and you know it's either working or it's not.
The tests do require some logical analysis on your part. For instance, that particular test occurs when that air spring is full of air. The solenoid clicks open and closed (meaning it is electrically OK) AND that corner of the car should drop (meaning air is actually passing through, and the solenoid is mechanically OK.
Solenoids are electro-mechanical. There must be air in that spring to test the solenoid's mechanical operation.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Two Cents
You have a FOLD LEAK.
My two cents.
"... Imagine a leak positioned on a fold of the air spring. This fold can be in different locations (though minute) at different times under different conditions. Add your 150 pounds to the car. Add the noise of the engine and the wind and the fact that you're driving at 55 mph, and you cannot hear that your compressor is doing it's DAMNEST to maintain trim height in the system. Imagine that the compressor is running for 89 seconds to maintain this height and then shuts off until it leaks down again, 15 seconds later. Do we hear the compressor running? No. We hear wind and road and engine and Van Morrison. Once while driving, it takes more than 89 seconds to maintain trim height and the idiot light comes on and the compressor safeties off to keep it from grenading. By the next mile marker, you notice the front of the car bouncing over expansion joints in the road and that damn overhead light is on again. To the shoulder we go. Shut down the car. Restart the car. Marvel as the fenders rise. Put the car in overdrive and continue down the highway while our compressors cycle for 98% of the time it takes for them 'to time out' again.
I have experience with driving with a leaky spring."
My two cents have been spent
Nope.
You have a FOLD LEAK.
My two cents.
"... Imagine a leak positioned on a fold of the air spring. This fold can be in different locations (though minute) at different times under different conditions. Add your 150 pounds to the car. Add the noise of the engine and the wind and the fact that you're driving at 55 mph, and you cannot hear that your compressor is doing it's DAMNEST to maintain trim height in the system. Imagine that the compressor is running for 89 seconds to maintain this height and then shuts off until it leaks down again, 15 seconds later. Do we hear the compressor running? No. We hear wind and road and engine and Van Morrison. Once while driving, it takes more than 89 seconds to maintain trim height and the idiot light comes on and the compressor safeties off to keep it from grenading. By the next mile marker, you notice the front of the car bouncing over expansion joints in the road and that damn overhead light is on again. To the shoulder we go. Shut down the car. Restart the car. Marvel as the fenders rise. Put the car in overdrive and continue down the highway while our compressors cycle for 98% of the time it takes for them 'to time out' again.
I have experience with driving with a leaky spring."
My two cents have been spent
I suffered such a leak in a font spring..
It got really bad while in Tahoe, for no obvious reason. I surmised that the addition of a passenger picked up at the lake caused a shift in balance, aggravating the leak.. i dunno for sure.
Whatever the case, the compressor was shutting down and not restarting for the first time in my experience, during which time the car was not drivable.
The car never reached proper trim height during that day while at the lake. The compressor was running constantly and overheating. It's piston was "freezing" in the bore. It's case was too hot to touch. The nose of the car was running as low as it can go, practically dragging on the ground,
I had to get out and cool the compressor with a wet rag to get it running again. This happened often, like every couple miles.
And I was worried about not making it back down the hill and home. But having no passenger on the return trip the leak (at the fold of a bag as you describe) was less severe and I only had to stop once during that 200 miles...
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Hey ridindirrty ... didn't you install new air springs in front a few months back?
It got really bad while in Tahoe, for no obvious reason. I surmised that the addition of a passenger picked up at the lake caused a shift in balance, aggravating the leak.. i dunno for sure.
Whatever the case, the compressor was shutting down and not restarting for the first time in my experience, during which time the car was not drivable.
The car never reached proper trim height during that day while at the lake. The compressor was running constantly and overheating. It's piston was "freezing" in the bore. It's case was too hot to touch. The nose of the car was running as low as it can go, practically dragging on the ground,
I had to get out and cool the compressor with a wet rag to get it running again. This happened often, like every couple miles.
And I was worried about not making it back down the hill and home. But having no passenger on the return trip the leak (at the fold of a bag as you describe) was less severe and I only had to stop once during that 200 miles...
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Hey ridindirrty ... didn't you install new air springs in front a few months back?
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
I most certainly did, but i must reiterate...this new behahavior began PRECISELY after i had my front end fortified (balljoints, tie rod ends, end links etc). The system was fine. If anything I may have a leak in the rear as it will drop an inch or 2 if left for a couple of days (this is NOT new).
Here's the NEW twist, I'm still driving the car as i wait for my parts, she certinly IS NOT riding on the bumpstops. NOW it hoists the rear end up as high as it'll go and there it stays...for a while...this is usually after initial startup in the morning or after a day sitting in the lot at work. It will usually settle down after 10 or so minutes of driving. I'm beginning to wonder if the compressor relay is toast or on the way out 'cause i also noticed that sometimes when i put my foot on the brake the compressor DOES NOT stop running which i believe it is supposed to do (as it has up until yesterday). This thing is becoming a drag...I love this car but jeezaloo...
I never heard of the compressor shutting off with the brake. You may be thinking of the air-suspension self-test routine shutting off when you hit the brake (or turn the key off, or un-ground the pigtail).
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the symtoms you have are most weird.. it's like the control system has gone haywire.
so, the rear rises on it's own .. and the compressor usually shuts off when you brake... two things the car is supposed to do when self-testing.
You ever notice any connection between your opening and closing the driver door to a change in weirdness? Like it's still acting weird but in a different way?
Might you by any chance have run the self-test procedure and neglected to disconnect (un-ground) the pigtail at the trunk switch? If so, i'd bet that would mess with the controller's brain cells in a big way...
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the symtoms you have are most weird.. it's like the control system has gone haywire.
so, the rear rises on it's own .. and the compressor usually shuts off when you brake... two things the car is supposed to do when self-testing.
You ever notice any connection between your opening and closing the driver door to a change in weirdness? Like it's still acting weird but in a different way?
Might you by any chance have run the self-test procedure and neglected to disconnect (un-ground) the pigtail at the trunk switch? If so, i'd bet that would mess with the controller's brain cells in a big way...
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Lowered Solenoids Over Concrete Cut-Outs
The first is actually a compressor life extender, built into the suspension system. Basically, each time you stop at a traffic light, the front of our Marks lower in the front due to momentum. The brake light switch (IIRC) tells the suspension that the car is NATURALLY going down in the front so DON'T run the compressor. When the car comes to a complete stop, the front ride height should return to the same height as before breaking. When we take our foot off the brake pedal, there should be no call for the compressor.
If the front of our Marks leaks down over night, when you start the car, the compressor will run to raise the front. If you step on the brake while this is happening, you'll hear your compressor stop or you'll see your front NOT rise until your foot is OFF the brake.
If your suspension system is sealed and working properly, you can still test this buy getting in the driver's seat, shutting both doors, hitting the brake, then starting the car. You just lowered the left side by adding your 150 pounds but you hear no compressor running. Release the brake pedal and oiala!, the compressor runs to compensate.
p.s. The DOOR OPEN SWITCHES will also lock out your solenoids. This too is a safety feature. Imagine your solenoids opening while your door is above the sidewalk. The weight of the car would now rest on the bottom edge of your door.
Both are correct.
The first is actually a compressor life extender, built into the suspension system. Basically, each time you stop at a traffic light, the front of our Marks lower in the front due to momentum. The brake light switch (IIRC) tells the suspension that the car is NATURALLY going down in the front so DON'T run the compressor. When the car comes to a complete stop, the front ride height should return to the same height as before breaking. When we take our foot off the brake pedal, there should be no call for the compressor.
If the front of our Marks leaks down over night, when you start the car, the compressor will run to raise the front. If you step on the brake while this is happening, you'll hear your compressor stop or you'll see your front NOT rise until your foot is OFF the brake.
If your suspension system is sealed and working properly, you can still test this buy getting in the driver's seat, shutting both doors, hitting the brake, then starting the car. You just lowered the left side by adding your 150 pounds but you hear no compressor running. Release the brake pedal and oiala!, the compressor runs to compensate.
p.s. The DOOR OPEN SWITCHES will also lock out your solenoids. This too is a safety feature. Imagine your solenoids opening while your door is above the sidewalk. The weight of the car would now rest on the bottom edge of your door.
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
Tell me about it, typically it's not TERRIBLY difficult to reason out what the system is doing or what it is TRYING to do but right now it seems to be defying logic (mine anyway)
Not that I can tell...one thing i did stumble upon accidentally though...i had turned the suspension off as i checked something out. I had the key in the run position and turned the suspension switch to ON...the nose of the car immediately vented right down to the bumpstops, WTF?
I regret to say...no i haven't.
I should have the parts in my hands on Friday. I was beginning to think there may be an issue with the vent valve in the compressor itself but now i don't know what to think anymore...
Maybe that switch pigtail's exposed end is flopping around and occasionally grounding itself?
At this point, i'm thinking the problem is electrical and intermittent... a frayed or loose wire or two.. burned insulation.. something grounding or shorting out, resulting in erratic controller behavior.
At this point, i'm thinking the problem is electrical and intermittent... a frayed or loose wire or two.. burned insulation.. something grounding or shorting out, resulting in erratic controller behavior.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
OldSchool Shivers.
<OldSchool Shivers>
Having to wiggle test a suspension system gives me the chills.
I would need a two liter Mountain Dew, a pack of cigarretts, and at least three different types of tips for my tester (Fluke 700 series).
I'd rather start from the begining and see what the system is properly doing first. This would elimate a lot of components first.
<OldSchool Shivers>
Having to wiggle test a suspension system gives me the chills.
I would need a two liter Mountain Dew, a pack of cigarretts, and at least three different types of tips for my tester (Fluke 700 series).
I'd rather start from the begining and see what the system is properly doing first. This would elimate a lot of components first.
Last edited:
Having to wiggle test a suspension system gives me the chills.
hehe..
"turned the suspension switch to ON...the nose of the car immediately vented right down to the bumpstops, WTF?"
You catch that one?
yeah.. wtf?.. good thing cousin Bob wasn't under there.. or the dog.
Fair warning.. use jacks.. and then don't put too much faith in the jacks.
hehe..
"turned the suspension switch to ON...the nose of the car immediately vented right down to the bumpstops, WTF?"
You catch that one?
yeah.. wtf?.. good thing cousin Bob wasn't under there.. or the dog.
Fair warning.. use jacks.. and then don't put too much faith in the jacks.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Missed it.
<OS cleans glasses>
I'd say the solenoids work like a charm and the springs are holding air.
I'd also say that Mr Compressor may be on the way out.
<OS cleans glasses>
I'd say the solenoids work like a charm and the springs are holding air.
I'd also say that Mr Compressor may be on the way out.
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
I tend to agree. I did the same test today on the side of the road. I was suspicious that my check suspension bulb was toast. Pulled the car over, turned it off, turned off the suspension, turned the key...front of the car dropped. And yes, sure as s**t...no check suspension light.
So, it would appear that the every time the key is cycled, the compressor just runs non stop until it times out. As before, If i give the front end a boost by giving the bumper a heave upward, the compressor WILL shut off. It just can't seem to get the front end to the desired height. This sort of makes sense if the compressor is weak, but why the heck does it keep overinflating the rear bags? It began doing this precisely after my dryer popped. I can't for the life of me make the connection.
Good thing I have one ready to go in. The joy of owning this car is fading fast along with my patience. Can't work on the car right now, thunderstorm going on outside. how the heck do i get at that check suspension bulb in the overhead console? I see no screws so I assume it's a matter of carefully prying...but where?
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Dark Compressed Overheads
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/documents/tech/overheadConsole.pdf
Replace the compressor first, then work on the other problems. Surprisingly, they may be related
http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/documents/tech/overheadConsole.pdf
ridindirrty
Active LVC Member
One rebuilt compressor...installed.
Indeed. The compressor is in...pretty straightforward job (for a change ). Here's the rundown;
1. The rear is NO LONGER being overinflated.
2. The car now drops to trim height after being shut off and driver door is opened and then closed. (It had not been doing this - I'd hear a click but no obvious height change) Now it is a noticeable drop. Good sign I think.
3. Compressor is still running more than it should. I'm convinced there is a problem with the front end - something binding - not letting it get to the predetermined height.
4. Passenger side front corner sits consistenly low - an inch or so
I surmise there was some problem with the vent solenoid in the old compressor because the system is definately behaving much more predictably. (not to mention that the old one blew it's lid off). What was ACTUALLY going on though? Still working that out.
I think it's time to give the front end the once over again. Look for any binding or damaged components.
Thanks for the article on removing the overhead console - very helpful.
I feel like I'm getting close to a solution. Damn i wish i had a hoist so i wasn't at the mercy of the guy rooting around under the front end of my car. Oh well, I'll figure something out. I hope.
Replace the compressor first, then work on the other problems. Surprisingly, they may be related
Indeed. The compressor is in...pretty straightforward job (for a change
). Here's the rundown;1. The rear is NO LONGER being overinflated.
2. The car now drops to trim height after being shut off and driver door is opened and then closed. (It had not been doing this - I'd hear a click but no obvious height change) Now it is a noticeable drop. Good sign I think.
3. Compressor is still running more than it should. I'm convinced there is a problem with the front end - something binding - not letting it get to the predetermined height.
4. Passenger side front corner sits consistenly low - an inch or so
I surmise there was some problem with the vent solenoid in the old compressor because the system is definately behaving much more predictably. (not to mention that the old one blew it's lid off). What was ACTUALLY going on though? Still working that out.
I think it's time to give the front end the once over again. Look for any binding or damaged components.
Thanks for the article on removing the overhead console - very helpful.
I feel like I'm getting close to a solution. Damn i wish i had a hoist so i wasn't at the mercy of the guy rooting around under the front end of my car. Oh well, I'll figure something out. I hope.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
Next step.
Congratulations on the replacement.
You now need to verify the eight air line connections and the height sensors. If the lines aren't leaking and the sensors are eaqually secure, then you have a leak in one of the air springs.
Congratulations on the replacement.
You now need to verify the eight air line connections and the height sensors. If the lines aren't leaking and the sensors are eaqually secure, then you have a leak in one of the air springs.