doobies or teens?

gijoe said:
I HAVE 20'S ON MY LS WITH 255/35/20'S AND YES THE RIDE QUALITY MAY BE A LITTLE DIFFERENT BUT NOT REALLY AS NOTICABLE AS PEOPLE MIGHT THINK. i LOVE THE LOOK AND SO DO THE PEOPLE THAT ARE AT THE CHIROPRACTOR GETTING THERE NECKS RELINED. FROM RUBBER NECKING LOL.
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Are those akuza creepin wheels? if so how much did you pay for them? and is your LS lowered? it seems like you have no gap in the back.
 
Wheel size is a matter of personal preference, but it does have performance impacts.

When you go to a larger wheel size, you're increasing the car's unsprung mass; if you do not otherwise compensate for it, you will pay for it in increased braking distances, decreased ride quality/increased NVH, and shorter supsension life. A vehicle's suspension and brakes are designed for a certain range of unsprung masses; once you go outside that range, you're asking the suspension and braking systems to do things for which they were not designed.

If you'll go to AutoWeek's Web site and search their back issues, you might be able to find an article they did within the last year or two on this subject. They actually quoted suspension engineers (I belive they were the ones who designed the suspension on the Dodge Ram, but it's been awhile) who talked about what a bad idea the big wheels were. I don't remember if the article had a pro or con conclusion, though.
 
SoonerLS said:
Wheel size is a matter of personal preference, but it does have performance impacts.

When you go to a larger wheel size, you're increasing the car's unsprung mass; if you do not otherwise compensate for it, you will pay for it in increased braking distances, decreased ride quality/increased NVH, and shorter supsension life. A vehicle's suspension and brakes are designed for a certain range of unsprung masses; once you go outside that range, you're asking the suspension and braking systems to do things for which they were not designed.

If you'll go to AutoWeek's Web site and search their back issues, you might be able to find an article they did within the last year or two on this subject. They actually quoted suspension engineers (I belive they were the ones who designed the suspension on the Dodge Ram, but it's been awhile) who talked about what a bad idea the big wheels were. I don't remember if the article had a pro or con conclusion, though.
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Good Point. That is why I have taken so long to find a wheel for my 2004 LSE. 23-24 lbs is my benchmark weight. So far I have only found very expensive ($650+ each) 3 pc. wheels that are 18"x8" in that weight range or better. I have not found any 19" or above that do not weigh more than my stock wheels.:mad:
 
Maybe its just me but I have an 03 ls v8 and i have no rubbing issues what so ever. It seems that the only people rubbing with 20's is 2000-2002.
 
deez iz twenties

i drive a 2000 ls with 20s on 245/35r20 shoes. Ive not once had a problem with rubbing. I do tend to drive a little better, but the car still handels about the same exept for the bumpier ride. I love em...

100_0832 (Small).JPG
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
Tires are a compromise. High profiles are for good road feel and mileage, low profile are for good handling and looks.

Mileage? does ur gas mileage decrease with 20s? y is that?
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Not necessarily, but usually. There are a lot of factors besides diameter.

Take a good look at those mileage racers, the ones that get something like 2,000 miles per gallon, really. Notice the tires. Universally they are tall and very skinny. The wide profiles kill mileage by presenting... more unsprung weight, power band rpm, frontal area wind drag and way more rolling resistance than a skinny tire, and more.

I noticed a long time ago, that an econo truck I had that used factory tires, skinny, lost an mpg or so when I switched to fat, larger diameter tires. If diameter was all there was to it, I should have gained mileage. But the other factors jumped in to drop it. Not scientific in my case, but the mileage racers go deep into theoretical territory.

So while 20 inch may help mileage, the wide profile that comes with them will kill it. Of course there are no absolutes unless you are at an extreme. Somewhere in 20 inch diameter tires there is an optimum profile for mileage and another for performance. Usually they do not match.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson
 
does your odometer still read the right mileage, i was told that since the tires are bigger so it causes the tire to go around slower causing the odometer to read fewer miles. i was told this by some kid, so i dont really believe it. any input on this
 
Whether your speedo (and thus odometer) reads accurately depends on whether your overall tire diameter changes. The standard tires on my '04 V8 are 235/50-17, which yields an overall radius of roughly 21.7 inches, so to maintain that radius, 20" wheels could only have a 1.7" sidewall.

According to the Tire Rack Web site, the lowest profile tires they carry are 25s, but at that aspect ratio with a 1.7" sidewall, we get a tire width of 170mm. If you go with a reasonable width (like a 235 or wider), you're necessarily going with a taller sidewall, which changes the overall radius.

The overall circumference, as we all remember from high school geometry, equals two times Pi times the radius. That means for every revolution of the wheel, the car goes 2*Pi*r units down the road. For my stock wheel/tire combo, that means my car goes approximately 136 inches down the road for every revolution of the wheel. If I go to a 235/25-20 tire, the car goes approximately 140 inches down the road per revolution--as a result, the car travels farther per unit of time, so the speedo reads low.

So, while it is theoretically possible to go to a 20" wheel and not need to recalibrate your spedo, in the real world, if you go to a 20" wheel and don't recalibrate, your speedo will read low.
 
SoonerLS said:
Whether your speedo (and thus odometer) reads accurately depends on whether your overall tire diameter changes. The standard tires on my '04 V8 are 235/50-17, which yields an overall radius of roughly 21.7 inches, so to maintain that radius, 20" wheels could only have a 1.7" sidewall.

According to the Tire Rack Web site, the lowest profile tires they carry are 25s, but at that aspect ratio with a 1.7" sidewall, we get a tire width of 170mm. If you go with a reasonable width (like a 235 or wider), you're necessarily going with a taller sidewall, which changes the overall radius.

The overall circumference, as we all remember from high school geometry, equals two times Pi times the radius. That means for every revolution of the wheel, the car goes 2*Pi*r units down the road. For my stock wheel/tire combo, that means my car goes approximately 136 inches down the road for every revolution of the wheel. If I go to a 235/25-20 tire, the car goes approximately 140 inches down the road per revolution--as a result, the car travels farther per unit of time, so the speedo reads low.

So, while it is theoretically possible to go to a 20" wheel and not need to recalibrate your spedo, in the real world, if you go to a 20" wheel and don't recalibrate, your speedo will read low.
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You're wierd!! :eek2:

Im only kidding.. Couldnt resist.
 
ok, so the speedo might read that your going slower tahn u actually are. correct? if the calculations are correct (hipothetically). but what about the odometer, will it read less miles than you are actually traveling since your tires/wheels wont be rotating the exact same as they are calibrated to?
thanks for your input sooner ive always wondered this stuff. i love LVC
 
I also have a toyota truck, lifted with 31 inch tires, only a few inches larger than factory. The company who installed them said i would be going faster than posted and that the odometer would read false. More actual miles than shown.
There's probably a formula to figuring the actual mileage if you know the exact od. reading at the install, compared to the od. now, while comparing the two different tire sizes. (Dont look at me, that would take me years :zgreenbou .)
 
itsnotmydaddys said:
ok, so the speedo might read that your going slower tahn u actually are. correct? if the calculations are correct (hipothetically). but what about the odometer, will it read less miles than you are actually traveling since your tires/wheels wont be rotating the exact same as they are calibrated to?
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I don't know if the odometer's calculations are separate from the speedo's, but they are are both fed data from the speed sensor, so they'll both be getting the same inaccurate information. As a result, just like the speedo will read low, the odometer will read fewer miles than the car has actually travelled. (Of course, if you know this, and don't recalibrate for the new larger wheels/tires, could you honestly sign the mileage statement when you sell the car? ;) )
 
how do u recalibrate the car the for the larger wheels, can i do it or do i have to take it somewhere to get it done.
 
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