Doing control arms and tie rods today

[Spree]

I replaced my cam adjusters bolts because one had a broke washer. If one tire is pointing out/in and the other is pointing straight you can adjust one of the cam bolts (eye ball) to get it close to straight. Don't adjust the cam bolts with the tire on the ground or you might strip out one of those washers and there real easy to adjust with the tire raised a little. I just looked straight at the car from 20' away and then straight down at/above the tire until everything looked straight. My steering wheel was off a little but it drove nice and straight. Was able to drive 20 miles to the alignment shop with out worrying about ruining the tires.
When I replaced my front end parts my car would have been un-driveable until I eye balled everything back to semi-straight. One tire was pointing straight and one was pointing at about 11 o'clock.

 

[sprocket]

All done! I replaced the cam adjuster on the one side and centered it and it looked like the tire was standing straight. I then replaced the inner and outer tie rods. I adjusted them by doing a driveway alignment with a string stretched between two jack stands. After the first try the car pulled to the right but not too bad, and the steering wheel was off to the left a little. I double checked and readjusted the passenger side. Then it was much better but not quite there. I adjusted the passenger side a little more. Now the steering wheel is centered and there is a very slight pull to the right. This is certainly plenty good to get it to the alignment shop. It's almost too good. I've got to tell myself not to put off the alignment for too long.

It rides nice too; nice and tight and smooth. I haven't driven it too far but there may be some clunking in the back end. I mean, why wouldn't there be? If the front parts were all worn out the back ones probably are too. Except the shocks, springs, and sway bar links. They are all fairly new.