Do I need to replace motor mounts..

[Calabrio]

Replace the motor mounts? How difficult and where should I buy them? What's the advantage of solid or hydraulic?

The car still has the original motor mounts and I do know they are old. There is some visibly noticeable movement in the engine when you apply the throttle.

At what point do you need to replace the motor mounts. What other symptoms. I've heard a klunk or click sound when I simultaneously brake and turn in parking lots or at low speed and I can't identify the source. Almost every suspension component has been replaced. Could this sound be the result of a motor mount.

Second question, is anyone familiar with what'll be involved? Can I switch the mounts (2 I think) reasonably easily in the driveway? Is it just a matter of putting a jack under the engine and removing one side at a time? Has anyone done this on a Mark VIII or 89+ Thunderbird/Cougar V8?

Last question, what kind I get. Solid rubber? Factory?

 

[Calabrio]

Actually, I'm starting to think that noise might be the passenger lower ball joint. The single suspension component on the front of that car that hasn't been replaced.

Anyone know where I can borrow a ball joint press?

But, the question about when to change the mounts is still relevant.
And what's the advantage/Disadvantage of the solid rubber mount over OEM on a very mildly modified Mark VIII.

 

[Frogman]

Well.. Where do we start...

The motor mounts are kind of a pain to replace. If you have access to a cherry picker, ramps and power tools they really ain't that bad.

The passenger side mount is going to be the pain. You have to drop the AC compressor to yank it our. You can access the motor mount bolt and mut from under the car, but you'll need to yank out the AC compressor to pull the mount out. Driver's side mount is a little easier, but you'll have to do it from under the car.

Let me know if you're serious about it, and I'll give you a quick step by step rundown.

OEM mounts in a mildly modified mark should do you fine. The rubber mounts will transfer a bit more engine vibration to the frame than will the OEM type mounts. I've got Solid rubber mounts on mine, and I can barely feel a difference between the two. Granted, the OEM mounts on mine had 100K on them.

Once you really start modding the motor is when you should get the solid rubber mounts. For example, on my mark, under heavy acceleration, the motor will pull to the passenger side about an inch with solid rubber mounts.

As far as a ball joint press... Save yourself a bunch of headaches, and take the new ball hoints and lower control arm to a machine shop, and have them press the ball joints. A lot easier. Alternately, you can buy a new lower control arm. Prolly a good idea, since god knows what the LCA bushings look like. And FORD doesn't sell just the bushings for the LCA's.

 

[MonsterMark]

Actually, I'm starting to think that noise might be the passenger lower ball joint.

I would concur with your analysis of the symptoms, especially when fully engaging the turning apparatus.

 

[Calabrio]

...I just did the strut rod bushing on that side, I knew I should have done the ball joint at the same time, but impatience got the best of me.

Sounds like $130 for the LCA or $50 for the balljoint and related headaches.

 

[Calabrio]

I can use T-bird Lower Control Arms, can't I?

$56.79- MOOG Part # K80055

vs.

$126.79- MOOG Part # K8783

 

[JMiles_T]

Thunderbird LCAs will fit just fine.