Did I just buy a money pit?

ElGatoBlanco

LVC Member
Joined
May 11, 2013
Messages
19
Reaction score
0
Location
Hopkins
Was in need of another vehicle as my ol' lady's 01 Sonata just bit the dust. Had to get one quickly as not having two working vehicles was NOT an option - unfortunately didn't have a lot of time to do my homework. I had promised her the next car I bought would be a "luxury vehicle" and she had narrowed it down to a BMW 3 series, Audi, or Lincoln LS. My knee-jerk reaction was to immediately rule out the Beamer and Audi based on cost of ownership, and because I prefer to buy American whenever I don't have to sacrifice value or quality, so went out looking at some Lincolns. The first four I looked at were pretty beat up. All of them looked great but had various mechanical issues. Perhaps that should have been a sign.

Finally I found a 2005 LS with 95xxx and the 3.0 V6 which seemed to be in excellent condition. Black on black - looked great, drove great on our very short test drive, interior was flawless so I bought it...4 days ago.

...3 days ago when starting it in the morning the car shook violently until it warmed up. If I didn't live in MN I would have thought we were having an earthquake sitting in that car. That issue persisted, violent shaking when cold-starting. Warmed up, it ran just fine. By the third day, an Engine light came on. I took it to Bloomington Lincoln to have them inspect the vehicle and pull the code. Dealer informed me that code says I need new catalytic converters - $1300. He was convinced it would be the coils when I first told him what was happening, but the code said otherwise. He also informed me that my right upper control arm and ball joint were extremely loose - $450. And oh, by the way, your rear right caliper is leaking and you have less than 1mm on both rear brake linings - $720.

Right out of the gate, I'm being told this thing needs $2400 in repairs. And that's without even touching the notorious coil issue.

In the days since I purchased it, I had time to search the web for information on this model and learned of the infamous coil problems amongst other things. I decided to hold off on the cats since I wasn't totally convinced of that being the problem based on what I read, regardless of what the code said. I did ok them to go ahead with the other work, I mean, can't drive with no brakes. Then he finds that the front breaks have only 2mm on the right side, likely due to the control arm issue, when the other side still had 7mm. I told him to just do the breaks all the way around...but first, there was an issue with the center cap on the drivers side front wheel, that required breaking the center cap off and drilling out the bolt that holds it in place because it had corroded so badly. Wonderful.

$1600 later - the car has new rotors and pads all the way around, two new calipers in the rear, and a full brake fluid exchange plus a new upper control arm/ball joint on the right side and a fresh alignment for good measure. And still, there is the unresolved issue of the earthquake idle when cold starting. I did some calling around for pricing and surprisingly found that the dealership had the better price...that's scary.

Me and the LS are getting off on the wrong foot. I want to like this car - it's visually stunning, gives a good performance and smooth ride on the road and has a comfortable interior - but, if this is going to be a regular thing, shelling out *thousands* to keep it on the road - I have to cut my losses sooner than later. Is this what owning an LS is going to be like? Major repairs every month? Because a number of reviews I've read on it suggest the answer is yes.

Back to the idling issue. I don't want to dish out 1300 for new cats if I don't really need them. From browsing this forum - the symptom seems to almost universally suggest it is the coils, not the cats. Is it possible the engine code is wrong? Or *gasp* is one a symptom of the other and am I going to need to replace BOTH cats AND coils? What needs to be done to keep either of these things from becoming a recurring problem? What preventative maintenance is high priority with these cars to prevent other common major repairs in the future? I will replace the cats if I must, and the coils too (plugs....ugh). But if this thing throws another thousand+ dollar repair at me any time in the near future this is going to be a short-lived man-car relationship with a bitter breakup possibly involving a shotgun aimed at that shiny emblem on the grill.
 
Well with 100k, a brake job shouldn't be surprising. Or ball joints. Sounds like the bad coils killed your cats.

You probably will experience cooling system problems just to be forewarned.

How much did you pay for it?
 
How's your wrenching skills?

This forum is the best for the LS and can help you do anything on it,

http://deneau.info/ls/

There's the shop manual.

Now here's a tip...if you want to buy a luxury car, no matter what brand or model...you will always pay a premium for the labor and parts...they weren't cheap new and aren't cheap to maintain.

After you get thru these issues...remember it's not a new car you should be good for some time again.

But I will also say that I've had more durable cars in my life...but there is something about the LS that I swear at it as I'm grinning at it owning it.
 
Well with 100k, a brake job shouldn't be surprising. Or ball joints. Sounds like the bad coils killed your cats.

You probably will experience cooling system problems just to be forewarned.

How much did you pay for it?

Paid 7700 - that includes a 5 year 100000 mile powertrain warranty.
 
How's your wrenching skills?

This forum is the best for the LS and can help you do anything on it,

http://deneau.info/ls/

There's the shop manual.

Now here's a tip...if you want to buy a luxury car, no matter what brand or model...you will always pay a premium for the labor and parts...they weren't cheap new and aren't cheap to maintain.

After you get thru these issues...remember it's not a new car you should be good for some time again.

But I will also say that I've had more durable cars in my life...but there is something about the LS that I swear at it as I'm grinning at it owning it.

Wasn't looking for cheap, just cheapER. A guy I talked to who owns a benz says he pays $100 just for an oil change because several parts have to be moved to get at the oil filter. Luxury or not, I figured an American car has to be cheaper than an import luxury vehicle to maintain. At least owners of luxury imports seem to say that's the case. I am not so much worried about the price of repairs as I am about the frequency of them. Some reviews suggest that literally every single week the engine light is coming on in these Lincolns. I can drop a grand here and there to maintain a nice vehicle. I can not however, drop several grand, every single month.

The brakes are out of the way, I'm fine with that, though a little erked that the seller didn't disclose any of these problems. Anyway, that ship has sailed. My main concern at this point is the cat or coils or both situation. I have heard these cars eat coils like kids eat candy. I have also heard they go through cats. Since above suggestion is that coils cause cats to fail, I suppose that makes sense. Should I expect to have to replace coils AND cats frequently? Someone tell me there is a solution to this problem. Replacing the coils and plugs obviously, but what is the root cause of the coils constantly going bad and is there a fix? Also, how do I diagnose the current problem, to know if I only need to replace the coils, the cats, or both?
 
Hang in there ... it only hurts a little here and there. Putting fuel in it is a lot of fun also.
10 yr old cars need money no matter what brand or model. eventually as cars age they need tlc.
It's the love you put into it that makes it worth the while.

+ you have a warranty to take advantage of. coils are on that list.
 
+ you have a warranty to take advantage of. coils are on that list.



I'm not so sure the coils are covered by a powertrain warranty. They are not specifically mentioned in the list of things covered. This is a third party warranty, the 'Interstate Hi-Road CL'. Specifically it lists the following engine parts ; pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and bearings, camshaft and bearings, timing chain and gears, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms, hydraulic lifters, rocker arm shafts and water pump. Engine block and cylinder heads only covered if damaged as a result of failure of one of the listed parts. Nothing recommended by manufacturer for replacement at regular maintenance intervals is covered. Seals and gaskets only covered when required in connection with replacement of a covered part.
 
I'm not so sure the coils are covered by a powertrain warranty. They are not specifically mentioned in the list of things covered. This is a third party warranty, the 'Interstate Hi-Road CL'. Specifically it lists the following engine parts ; pistons, piston rings and pins, crankshaft and main bearings, connecting rods and bearings, camshaft and bearings, timing chain and gears, intake and exhaust valves, valve springs, oil pump, push rods, rocker arms, hydraulic lifters, rocker arm shafts and water pump. Engine block and cylinder heads only covered if damaged as a result of failure of one of the listed parts. Nothing recommended by manufacturer for replacement at regular maintenance intervals is covered. Seals and gaskets only covered when required in connection with replacement of a covered part.

I hope you didn't pay for that worthless "warranty". That is one of the voodoo warranties that cover parts that should last at least 200K miles with normal maintenance and normally will NEVER fail in 100K miles.

If you can turn a wrench you can change the coils and plugs yourself. On the V6 it's time consuming, but not at all difficult. Get yourself a service CD off eBay for the -03-'05 V6. The V8 is different in many ways.
 
Most of those third party warranties are straight scams. I'm assuming you bought this at a dealer? If you did, I would be bugging them. No reason a car purchased near to high market value should be needing close to 50% of it's cost in repairs, with 4 days of ownership.
 
The rough cold idle could be caused by Intake manifold tuning valve O ring failing. Common problem with 3.0L
 
Perhaps not although I've seen plenty of members here call out the fact their coils were covered on warranty. Possibly the original warranty then.

I only had one of those R warranties with mine.
 
Did you just buy a money pit?

Short answer: yes

Long answer: a money pit that you will soon love and happily throw (more) money at.
 
10 yr old cars need money no matter what brand or model.



Money pit? Yes, as with any other 10 year old car.

You save money buying used, but expecting to drive it off the lot and not having to put more money into it later is foolish. If you wanted a trouble free experience that you should have shelled out more coin for something used or at least certified pre owned. Personally, deprecation is the worst thing you can pay for so I always buy used. Parts are parts, deprecation is just a loss.

I got a major component warranty when I got my LS, but mine was through the dealer. It’s definitely has already paid for itself. Members in this thread no less can tell you, when I got my car it was riddled with problems. Coils, Alternator, DCCV, Radiator, Rotors, in that order in about a 6 month time. Clearly the guy before me didn't take care of it. You fix what they didn't and love the car later.

Change the coils yourself broseph, it's about 4 hours and a 6 pack away.
 
go to autozone and have them pull the codes its a free service and post the codes here and we can help you better. most likely is not the cats and its the coils but without the codes we really cant help you.
 
The code was already pulled by the dealer and they said it was the cats. But the problem is hard shaking when cold starting. I've been reading threads until my eyes hurt and nothing equates that symptom to bad cats. Thus, I am worried there is something else wrong. Replacing the cats is one thing, but I need to know what caused them to go bad in the first place so that can also be fixed so I don't end up having to replace the cats twice.

ANother thing I noticed today, is the steering wheel shaking pretty bad when driving down the road. Faster I go, the more it shakes. Sitting still, and at low speed it doesn't shake at all. Conventional wisdom would say it's a steering component but I JUST had an alignment done yesterday after replacing the brakes all the way around along with the right upper control arm, so hard to figure that, unless it is a related symptom to the vibration during cold starts and not a steering component.
 
On the cold start shaking, you're misfiring. That's either because of bad coils/plugs or bad mixture such as would be caused by a bad seal or PCV hose/elbow.

On the steering wheel shake, you probably have one or more wheels out of balance or out of round. The LS steering is really sensitive to that. Ford recommends road-force balancing. Of course, a four wheel alignment is also a very good idea.
 
Bad coils can ruin cats. You most certainly need new coils and plugs. There are ways of diagnosing bad catalytic convertors beyond a cel, something I would expect a dealer to do.

The steering wheel shake can be a number of things. Don't over look simple things like a wheel being out of balance.

edit-sorry joe you beat me.
 
On the cold start shaking, you're misfiring. That's either because of bad coils/plugs or bad mixture such as would be caused by a bad seal or PCV hose/elbow.

On the steering wheel shake, you probably have one or more wheels out of balance or out of round. The LS steering is really sensitive to that. Ford recommends road-force balancing. Of course, a four wheel alignment is also a very good idea.

I will have the wheels checked for proper balancing. I'm not familiar with "road-force balancing" or how it differs from the usual way - is this something that can be done at a regular shop like Tires Plus or do I need to see a dealer?

I'm already resigned to replacing coils/plugs regardless, if I don't need them, I will, so I will get that out of the way because I have no idea when the last time they were replaced was.

Aside from that, what seals and or PCV hose/elbows should be getting checked? Is there anything else I should have checked while this work is being done? And while coils are being replaced, are there any other items that make sense to have replaced at the same time while they have everything torn apart? I'd really like to have a somewhat comprehensive list of items to ask the service tech about so I know everything that should have been looked at was.
 
Hey don't want to be a bad guy and don't want to get yelled at but I have to say this, I love my Lincoln ls , very good Car, but the BMW's 2.5l both m20, and m50 motors are famous for reliability, we have a guy that comes in for regular oil changes on his e36 that's got over 480,000 miles, and parts for those 3 series are cheaper then my SVT too. Just saying . I worked for BMW for a while, parts are about the same its the labor cost that makes BMW "expensive", but if know how to use a wrench and read a manual its really not different then any type of luxury car.
 
I am just curious why someone would pay so much for a 95k mile car without an inspection done first...

First post sounds like buyers remorse.
 

Members online

Back
Top