Definitive GEN 2 Cooling System Thread

rgorke

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In an effort to create a sticky on repairing Gen 2 Cooling systems, here are the concepts and threads that everyone should read and study prior to moving forward.

First, USE MOTORCRAFT Parts.

Yes, there are cheaper parts Dorman, etc but the will 1) not work properly and/or 2) not last and you will have to redo the work in months, if not, weeks.

Just one specific example is that I used a non-Motorcraft thermostat from AutoZone and while the system did not leak, the cooling system would not operate properly. The temp would stay at 207 with the heater at 90 degrees but as soon as I would turn the temp down to 75, the coolant temp would rise to 210 then 215 then 220 within minutes until I turned the heat back up.

Second, just do the whole system while you have it apart. It will cost you more but save you in the short to medium to long term. All the plastic parts WILL fail. My problem ultimately was a failed water pump but that wasn't where I started. I did change out the 3 plastic parts since my degas bottle, upper and lower hoses, DCCV, and radiator had all been changed within the past 2-3 years.

Third, make sure you bleed the system per the manual. Don't rush step #5 in filling the engine fill. Let the coolant slowly seep in and bubbles will come up. I would periodically shake This will make the bleed process more efficient.

Finally, here are the threads that will help you through the process. It isn't THAT bad a repair as long as you make sure you are following these instructions and the online repair manual at
2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Manual -- brought to you by Owlman

GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul

REPLACE YOUR COOLING SYSTEM - 2004 Fun and Easy Steps

I would encourage others to add to this AND add some potentially alternative parts for that equal Motorcraft, i.e. degas bottle, such as:

ÜRO PARTS C2C34318 Coolant Recovery Tank | RockAuto

Let me know what I've missed,

Thanks
 
I just received one to put on my 04 (current degas bottle started leaking Monday). I plan to put it on Saturday or Sunday. It certainly looks like the correct part, and it seems to be decent quality.
 
Thanks for being the Guinea pig Joe. Hopefully the rest of our cooling systems last long enough to find out.

I just dropped $250 on an OEM one. :rolleyes:
 
I just received one to put on my 04 (current degas bottle started leaking Monday). I plan to put it on Saturday or Sunday. It certainly looks like the correct part, and it seems to be decent quality.
How is this holding up so far? I know it hasn't been even a year yet.
 
Well, that's hard to say. I no longer have the 04. Got rid of it in February.
Thanks for the reply. Trying to decide how to proceed with mine. I know the standard answer is to replace the entire cooling system because all the plastic fails one after another after a certain amount of time. I've had mine for a year and a half. The previous owner did replace coolant system parts but I am not sure if he did them all or just the ones he gave me receipts for. Recently I had to replace the radiator because it was leaking on the top by the hose. Common spot from what I understand. After that I filled it back up, bled the system one time and it was great. Ran all summer at 205 to 215. Now however it is running hot. Gets up to 230 right away even after I try to bleed the system. I just pressure tested it yesterday and it held 16 lbs. Cap totally failed so I got a new one. Still goes right up to 230. I have plenty of heat from the vents and the ac works great too. It doesn't overheat but runs between 226 and 236 with the fan wining away. If I turn up the heat it does drop the running temp about 5 degrees. I don't know if my problem is trapped air in the system, a bad thermostat, a bad water pump, or old parts that need replaced. Does the aux pump inhibit flow if it goes bad or is it just for the heater? I am reluctant to believe the issue is old cracked parts because it held pressure in my test but understand that it still could be. Wouldn't it take some time for the temperature to rise to 230 if that was the case and not go there immediately? Suggestions welcome.
 
Don't be fooled by the pressure test, it is close to useless on this car. I was a big believer in pressure testing, till my experience with it on the LS. It could be any or all of the things you said (except the aux pump, I don't think it is your aux pump). For this reason, unfortunately, the standard "replace everything" advice still applies. If you are insistent on doing it one thing at a time, then start with the thermostat and thermostat housing.
 
Don't be fooled by the pressure test, it is close to useless on this car. I was a big believer in pressure testing, till my experience with it on the LS. It could be any or all of the things you said (except the aux pump, I don't think it is your aux pump). For this reason, unfortunately, the standard "replace everything" advice still applies. If you are insistent on doing it one thing at a time, then start with the thermostat and thermostat housing.
I was thinking about starting with the thermostat too. If that doesn't work I will go the replace everything route. It's not that I am determined to go about it one thing at a time it's more that I don't want to go through all of the work if it isn't necessary. Even though doing your own repairs saves a lot of money and you know it is done right it doesn't always work out for the best. Sometimes you find out that you went through hours of work and expense for nothing. I just want to rule out the easy stuff first. Thanks for your advice. It is appreciated. One thing I did forget to mention. After I shut off the car I hear a humming, vibration, whining noise, I don't know how to best describe it. Anyway with a stethoscope I can best hear it on the upper radiator hose, flexible elbow by the engine. Does the aux pump continue to circulate coolant for a time after the engine is off?
 
I replaced the thermostat housing, thermostat, and seal. The inside of the housing was broken off on one side. Temperatures are back to normal.
 
I've gotten to the point where I feel I can't put it off any longer. Even though I am not overheating I am loosing enough coolant that I have to top it off every week or two. The biggest problem is the smell I am getting. I don't know if I am burning it off the motor or it is getting the accessory belt wet and making it slip and smell. Either way I am going to start with the cooling system. I have some questions though. A lot of the hoses that I believe have plastic parts( or metal I'm not sure) are not available in Motorcraft anymore. Rockauto has some of the upper and lower hoses in ACDelco, Continental, and Gates. Does anyone have any experience good or bad with these different brands of these hoses? I know that all of the plastic parts need to be replaced. How about the other hoses that do not have plastic and are not available either?
My DCCV is 4 years old. I'm thinking of skipping it.
Lastly the water pumps, are they necessary or optional? Thanks for any input.
 
No cooling system parts are optional. The belt driven water pump essential.

Now if you are asking which parts you need to replace... and which ones you can skip... all/ none of them.

You could go back through this form a number of years... and you will probably 50 threads or more... where people have only replaced what they thought was necessary... only to have to go back in and change the other parts they should have replaced... the first time.

As far as what aftetmarket parts you can get away with using... I have no clue what is good... or what is crappy.

Maybe someone else will have some good recommendations.
 

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