DATC Module trouble codes

ChiTownBoi

ChiTownBoi

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been having trouble with my ac blowing cold air. did a diagnostic module test and pulled the codes


24 26
27 98
12 64

i know the 12 64 is a bad actutator circuit but the first 2 i have no idea and havent had any luck finding what those 2 mean. any help would be great.
 
B2426 is a solar sensor code, it's not your problem.
B2798 is a short circuit on the driver's side of the DCCV, this is your problem. Probably the DCCV is leaking slightly and it has leaked into the driver's side solenoid and corroded it and shorted it out. The DCCV needs to be replaced.
 
i forgot to mention i replaced the dccv less than 3 weeks ago. my car has been running with no ac for the longest and this tx heat is no joke. mine was located by the passengers side next to the radiator. i dont believe to have seen a dccv on the drivers side.
 
ChiTownBoi said:
i forgot to mention i replaced the dccv less than 3 weeks ago. my car has been running with no ac for the longest and this tx heat is no joke. mine was located by the passengers side next to the radiator. i dont believe to have seen a dccv on the drivers side.
Click to expand...

There is only one DCCV, but it has two valves. One valve for the driver's side heater core, and the other for the passenger side heater core. Also note that both cores are actually behind the center of the dash, and are really one dual core unit. We call them driver's side and passenger side because the driver's side controls the air temp of the driver's side vents and the passenger side controls the air temp of the passenger side.
Did you check the DCCV and compressor clutch fuse after you changed the DCCV? It may have been blow by your old DCCV. Or, it may be that the new DCCV you installed was/is defective from the start.
It's also possible that these are all stored codes from before you replaced the DCCV. You should clear the DATC codes and run the test again.
 
i check the #1 fuse since its the ac and it was good prior to replacing the DCCV. im not sure which fuse the comp clutch is but i check all the fuses from the front and even the trunk and they are all good. ive had the dccv go out on me before and it did blew a fuse and i replaced the dccv and ac worked fine again, but this time it didnt. i even took apart my dash a few times and all the actuators are working fine opening and closing. when i set the ac it blows air very hot. now im thinking it might be the DATC module. thats the only part im suspecting might be bad.
 
ran the test with engine on and cleared codes and redid test . came out with 2798 2796 2426 and 12 64.
what im leaning towards doing its taking my car to get the A/C proff recharged again. for some reason the ac clutch doesnt disengage and i know that might be caused by too much refrigerant. also when i turn on the ac theres a noise comming from the heater core area , sounds like something is spinning in there. ( didnt do that when the ac worked fine ) im just going to have to ride it out till im off work saturday. hopefully its just that it needs to be recharged.
 
You may or may not need the refrigerant looked at, but that's going to do nothing for your DCCV problem.
The AC clutch should only disengage when the system is turned off, you're at WOT, it's so cool that the evaporator is freezing up, or the refrigerant is too low. Normally, it does not cycle, it just stays on (the compressor is variable displacement).
False codes for actuator doors are not unusual and do not mean that your DATC is bad.
 
well on my way home i cleared the dtc codes and ran test again and now its just pulling codes
2798
2796
2426
1264
1242..
maybe its a bad temp blend door? when i turn ac on sounds like 2 pieces of plastic rubbing against each other going in circular motion.
 
sorry about all the post, i just want to get an idea of what i should be looking at when i tear apart the dash again.( which seems that im going to have to do ) . just want to get the problem fixed.100 degrees + in TX is killing me.
 
ChiTownBoi said:
been having trouble with my ac blowing cold air.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the a/c is doing its job. Do you mean it's blowing out hot air?

Can you hear the compressor clutch engage when you turn on the A/C? If not, you're either low on refrigerant, have a blown #1 fuse (10A - engine compartment) or you have a bad A/C relay. I'd recommend checking the fuse again as it's easy enough to check.

You're DATC isn't throwing a code for the passenger's side solenoid of the DCCV (2799 & 2800). Is cold air coming out the passenger's side vents?

B2797 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Open Circuit
B2798 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground
B1264 = Floor Door Actuator Circuit Failure
B1242 - Air Inlet Door Actuator Circuit Failure

My 2006 manual doesn't list 2426 or 2796. Codes 1264 and 1242 indicates you have a problem with the blend door motor.
 
ChiTownBoi said:
...
maybe its a bad temp blend door? when i turn ac on sounds like 2 pieces of plastic rubbing against each other going in circular motion.
Click to expand...

The LS has no temperature blend doors. The DCCV is the part the determines air temperature. The LS has doors to direct where the air goes to and where it comes from only. Yes, I know that most cars use a temperature blend door to control temperature, but the LS does not.
 
weeves said:
Sounds like the a/c is doing its job. Do you mean it's blowing out hot air?

Can you hear the compressor clutch engage when you turn on the A/C? If not, you're either low on refrigerant, have a blown #1 fuse (10A - engine compartment) or you have a bad A/C relay. I'd recommend checking the fuse again as it's easy enough to check.

You're DATC isn't throwing a code for the passenger's side solenoid of the DCCV (2799 & 2800). Is cold air coming out the passenger's side vents?

B2797 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Open Circuit
B2798 - Driver Coolant Control Valve Circuit Short to Ground
B1264 = Floor Door Actuator Circuit Failure
B1242 - Air Inlet Door Actuator Circuit Failure

My 2006 manual doesn't list 2426 or 2796. Codes 1264 and 1242 indicates you have a problem with the blend door motor.
Click to expand...

sorry i meant to say blowing hot air. and i checked the fuses , compressor turns on and off when i push the button. its blowing hot air now, before it would blow cold air on drivers side and hot on passengers side but now both are blowing hot air.
 
this is what they are calling im guessing the temp blend door. when i tore apart my dash i seen an exact part just like this one located on the drivers side. it was right next to the same location of the heater core but of course outside. getimage.jpg

getimage.jpg
 
ChiTownBoi said:
this is what they are calling im guessing the temp blend door. when i tore apart my dash i seen an exact part just like this one located on the drivers side. it was right next to the same location of the heater core but of course outside.View attachment 828460814
Click to expand...

Controls where the air flows, not the air temperature.
The DCCV controls temperature.
You have no control of temperature and you have codes for a circuit fault with the DCCV. Why not accept that this is the area of your problem? If any of the wires going to the DCCV are broken, you will get full heat. If the DCCV itself is bad, you'll usually get full heat. If the connector at the DCCV is not fully seated, you'll get full heat. It's also possible there is a fault with the DATC. I linked the troubleshooting steps that allow you to determine exactly where the fault is (the DCCV itself, the wiring, or the DATC). Why not check it?
 
just got done checking the wires on the dccv they are good. no cut or open wires. and the plug is fastened correctly . now when i run the test and clear the codes and do the " hard boot" on the module and turn the ac on sometimes the ac clutch doesnt turn on. im thinking i have a faulty datc. this has happened more than 3 times since my ac stopped blowing cold air.
 
Did you do resistance tests on the solenoids of the DCCV? What are the readings?
Have you measured voltage at the solenoid coils with the system on?
Did you do continuity tests on the wiring from the DATC to the DCCV, or did you just look at it? (You can't tell if the wire is broken inside the insulation just by looking.)
 
joegr said:
Did you do resistance tests on the solenoids of the DCCV? What are the readings?
Have you measured voltage at the solenoid coils with the system on?
Did you do continuity tests on the wiring from the DATC to the DCCV, or did you just look at it? (You can't tell if the wire is broken inside the insulation just by looking.)
Click to expand...

ill be doing the pinpoint test tomorrow afternoon,since right now i have to be at work in an hour and wont get off till late.
but thanks for your help so far. i will post the readings tomorrow afternoon.
 
turns out it was a faulty DATC Module. taking my LS to have it recharged. might have added too much freon when i was trying to find out what was the cause.
 
ChiTownBoi said:
sorry i meant to say blowing hot air. and i checked the fuses , compressor turns on and off when i push the button. its blowing hot air now, before it would blow cold air on drivers side and hot on passengers side but now both are blowing hot air.
Click to expand...

It could be the Thermal Expansion Valve. This is a mechanical valve located right at the very back of the engine bay, right against the firewall. It looks like a rectangle with an asian hat on top (only way i can describe it)

I was having the same exact problems as you--blown fuse at the DCCV, replaced the fuse, it blew again, replaced again and it was fine. The AC was good for a little bit, but definitely not cool enough. Checked the freon pressures, and I was pulling a vacuum on the low side, and had high pressure on the high side--so high the pressure relieve valve was going off. This tells me that there's a blockage somewhere in the system. I spoke with my mechanic, and he said the TX valve goes a lot. You have to remove the dash to get to it. That's the worst part.
 
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