Damn alarm...

Having no remote will not affect the alarm system.
The disarm/arm inputs are spliced together respectively coming from the keyless module and the door switches (R/O & PK/O wires for unlock, and PK/BK for lock.) There is another disarm wire coming from the key in the door as well (DG/P)...
The majority of the false alarms are bad inputs from the door ajar switches, trunk or hood switch, or ignition tamper switch.

Icarus said:
NOTE:
This diagnostic mode quickly identifies a shorted to ground condition for the door lock cylinder switch, hood switch and/or luggage compartment door lock cylinder circuit.

l Turn ignition switch to RUN.

l Activate power door locks five times in 10 seconds.

l Observe alarm indicator lamp, count flashes (repeats every 10 seconds).

l What does the system do?

NOTE:
Diagnostic mode will automatically cancel after two minutes or turn ignition switch from RUN to OFF, to cancel.

Flashes one time
Door lock cylinder switch, hood switch and luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch inputs normal.

Flashes two times
Door lock cylinder switch input shorted. SERVICE door lock cylinder switches or Circuit 25 (DG/P).

Flashes three times
Luggage compartment door lock cylinder or hood switch input shorted. SERVICE luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch, hood switch or Circuit 26 (W/P).

Flashes four times
Both inputs shorted. SERVICE door lock cylinder switches or Circuit 25 (DG/P). SERVICE luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch, hood switch or Circuit 26 (W/P).

Icarus said:
Component Tests


Hood Switch

Measure the installed switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent. The resistance between Pin 5 of the anti-theft alarm control and ground (Pin 23/26) should be more than 25,000 ohms with the hood closed. Opening the hood should drop the resistance to less than 200 ohms. If not, replace hood switch or service Circuit 26 (W/P).


Door Disarm Switch

Measure door lock cylinder switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent with key removed from the door lock. The resistance should be more than 25,000 ohms. If not, replace the door door lock cylinder switch.

Measure the door lock cylinder switch resistance with the key fully rotated to the end of travel in the unlock direction. The resistance should be less than 200 ohms. If not, replace the door lock cylinder switch.


Lock Tamper Switch, Luggage Compartment Door

Measure the installed switch resistance using Rotunda Digital Volt-Ohmmeter 007-00001 or equivalent. The resistance should be more than 25,000 ohms. If not, replace the luggage compartment door lock cylinder switch.


Ignition Lock Anti-Theft Switch

Disconnect anti-theft control module and measure the resistance between Pin 10 and Pin 26 at the wiring harness connectors. Resistance should be between 145 and 175 ohms. If not, replace the ignition lock anti-theft switch or service Circuit 936 (DG/W).
 
Using the remote to lock the car is the same as pushing the lock button inside the car. They both arm the car. The only way my alarm wouldn't go off is when I locked the car by pushing down the lock plunger. I decided to unplug the module so I could use my remote again. Never had an alarm since. I would bet that if you plug it back in, even after you get your remote, that it will start going off again.
 
Thats what he said :) Its pretty much the ONLY way to lock the car without arming it.
 
Correct sir. I had to lock my car that way for a long time until I heard about just unplugging that stupid module. My life is better now.
 
I guess nobody wants to entertain the invisible pirate ninjas eh?
 

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