Creak...LCA rather than Sway Bar

rgorke

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So after changing out the Sway Bar bushing, the creak is still there. I even reinstalled and regreased the bushing to no avail.

I had my son jack up the car and I could feel the creak coming from the Lower Control Arm. It isn't a clunk like from the ball joint but a squeak or creak. I also squirted them with some lithium lube and they seem quiet now, I will now more when it heats up.

The price on LCA's is pretty high, so...I came across these posts to install zerk fittings for the bushings.

What did you do to your LS today?

What did you do to your LS today?

and

Rear lower control arm bushing replacement (pics)

I think this would be a good thing for all the control arm bushings.

Also, would it be advises or has anyone used a LCA from a junk yard (correct Gen, etc) and re-bushing'd it with a high quality set of bushings? I would do it this way rather than re-bushing my existing LCA because I don't want to leave my car potentially undriveable as I put in the new bushings. I would also probably put zerk fittings on this "new" LCA as well.

Thanks
 
I'm not convinced that adding grease to bushings not designed for grease will do much positive for them. Anyway, they seem to last from 100K to well over 200K miles...

The arms are aluminum. If you are going to press bushings in and out, you need someone who knows how to do it with aluminum. Aluminum will just suddenly fail while you are driving (no telling when) if done wrong. Steel is much more forgiving.
 
I'm not convinced that adding grease to bushings not designed for grease will do much positive for them. Anyway, they seem to last from 100K to well over 200K miles...

The arms are aluminum. If you are going to press bushings in and out, you need someone who knows how to do it with aluminum. Aluminum will just suddenly fail while you are driving (no telling when) if done wrong. Steel is much more forgiving.


Joe, what is the 'trick' to working on the aluminum arms? If I were to do such a job, I'd want to check for micro-cracks with a dye-test. Anything else you can comment on?

KS
 
Joe, what is the 'trick' to working on the aluminum arms? If I were to do such a job, I'd want to check for micro-cracks with a dye-test. Anything else you can comment on?

KS

I honestly don't know. I am pretty sure that you can't heat them as much and that you can't apply enough force to deform them.
 
Now I think I need to change the thread subject....now I am thinking it is the strut mount bushing. I sprayed the top of the mount and up underneath through the wheel well with silicone WD40 and that really seems to have shut the creak up!!!

What an irritating proceesntracking down this freaky racket!!!!
 
Not hi-jacking at all!

Mine started squeaking here in the last month with 186k miles. I've also noticed that my car has a floaty/sway feeling in the rear end, especially on the highway with a cross wind. Seems i'm having to make very small corrections when driving straight. Ball joints are good, front and rear tie rods are new, tire pressure good. Maybe the rear bushings are shot.
 

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