coolant temperature gauge past halfway but car does not over heat

[epikls]

I replaced the dccv the other day
Now the engine coolant temperature gauge will go past halfway But car does not over heat
Before I changed the dccv The needle would stay just under the halfway point
I have no idea what could be the problem
Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[snaxima]

I had this issue also after changing my degas bottle. It slowly manifested into overheating occasionally. I had to really keep my eye on it because it would happen sporadically. Eventually I changed the T-Stat and still had the problem. Ended up with a crack from all the overheating. Almost $2k in repairs at Ford. I'm no mechanic but I suggest you get it looked at. Or at least pressure test.

 

[joegr]

...Now the engine coolant temperature gauge will go past halfway But car does not over heat..

Wrong. It's overheating. It's just not seriously overheating yet.
Did you refill the coolant and bleed exactly as instructed by the refill/bleed procedure?

 

[LS4me]

I replaced the dccv the other day
Now the engine coolant temperature gauge will go past halfway But car does not over heat
Before I changed the dccv The needle would stay just under the halfway point
I have no idea what could be the problem
Any help is greatly appreciated

Did you bleed the system EXACTLY as required?

 

[jolinc01]

Bleed the system again. The LS can be a pain to bleed, but that's my guess to your issue.

 

[scjmc]

It is not bled properly or enough. Trust us.... My Gen I would start having problems after it only lost about 2 cups of water from engine. Bleed...

 

[epikls]

I bled it again today
Then after a while I drove it to the store and the needle went past the midway point again but not as much
I'll try again once I Get some more coolant

 

[1LoudLS]

well if any air comes out when you try to bleed it again, you either did not bleed it correctly, or you have a leak somewhere letting air in. (both seem to be pretty common...)

 

[epikls]

Turns out I forgot one step
Bled the system again
Took the Ls out for a test drive
Pushed the car pretty hard just to make sure it was working right
The needle stayed right at the halfway point like it should
now to see if It stays that way

 

[epikls]

This is where my needle is after a 6 mile trip to the airport and back
It never went past the halfway point
Looks a bit higher than before
Is it fine right there

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Hey, did you ever get your bleeding problem fixed? My 2001 Lincoln is doing the same exact thing yours was , my gauge is where yours was as well, I have replaced the tank and I am curious if bleeding the system more and more worked, any info will be appreciated

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Did you bleed the system EXACTLY as required?

How do you exactly bleed the system as required ? I am having this same issue

 

[joegr]

How do you exactly bleed the system as required ? I am having this same issue

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Thank you !

 

[epikls]

Make sure you read it carefully and follow the steps
if its air in your cooling system that is the solution
the first time I did it I had forgot a step and had to do it over
If you follow each step you should be fine

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Make sure you read it carefully and follow the steps
if its air in your cooling system that is the solution
the first time I did it I had forgot a step and had to do it over
If you follow each step you should be fine

Did you drain the system and fill it back up with new coolant first? Or was it already full? I just changed my degass bottle

 

[jjcool00]

What I would do is follow the instructions. Remove the engine fill cap, Open the heater air bleed, Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added, Install the degas bottle cap, Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open, Install the engine fill cap, Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn), NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open. Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position, Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark, Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again, Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater, Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater, Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes, Shut the engine off and allow to cool, After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

You don't need to drain the coolant unless it has become contaminated.. if you only had a bad degas and replaced it I would just bleed the system following the directions listed above to THE LETTER.

Also be careful not to over tighten the caps or the bleeder.

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Thank you for your advice, and thank you to everyone , I know this topic has been thrown around a lot, I'm new to the forum and new to the Lincoln Ls so I really appreciate all the help

 

[M4rk]

Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.

To what level do you add coolant up to? Cold fill? Just below the cap?

 

[epikls]

To what level do you add coolant up to? Cold fill? Just below the cap?

I Added up to cold fill line

 

[epikls]

Did you drain the system and fill it back up with new coolant first? Or was it already full? I just changed my degass bottle

I drained the coolant and put it back but added a gallon of coolant since you lose a good amount bleeding it

 

[Deleted member 22631]

What I would do is follow the instructions. Remove the engine fill cap, Open the heater air bleed, Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added, Install the degas bottle cap, Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open, Install the engine fill cap, Install the engine fill cap until contact is made and then tighten an additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn), NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open. Start the engine and turn the heater to the defrost (90°F) position, Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark, Reopen the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again, Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater, Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater, Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F) and allow the vehicle to idle for 2 minutes, Shut the engine off and allow to cool, After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX mark.

You don't need to drain the coolant unless it has become contaminated.. if you only had a bad degas and replaced it I would just bleed the system following the directions listed above to THE LETTER.

Also be careful not to over tighten the caps or the bleeder.

When filling the engine spot do you fill it to the top or is there a full line , also when should the fan kick on its highest setting ?

 

[joegr]

The top.
If you've done it right, it shouldn't.

 

[oddball]

Note that the highest fan speed is like a tornado.
Also, the needle location pictured is fine. Anything where it's pointing relatively at the middle is normal.

 

[Deleted member 22631]

Note that the highest fan speed is like a tornado.
Also, the needle location pictured is fine. Anything where it's pointing relatively at the middle is normal.

When should the fan turn on to the highest speed? Does it only do that when there's an issue or will it turn on to that speed when the air condition is on? When mine was overheating it would turn on to that speed, now that I have bleed the system it runs but has not hit that speed is this normal ?