Coolant recovery tank
- Thread starter gramps
- Start date
Tried the local auto wrecker? If they have a Mark 7 (or similar) it's reservoir is almost guaranteed to be there, and for cheap.
Are you positive the leak is from the reservoir? I thought I had one but upon further investigation, it was.. a radiator hose? No. It was from the radiator fins near the top of the radiator on that side... Corrosion finally ate through and pinholes were evident. A greenish discolored spot crumbled under my touch.
A new aluminum radiator was one of the best things I've given my old car.
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So, how have you tried to patch it?
No glue will stick, but since it's a somewhat thick plastic, you might try a soldering iron. Melt the seam or crack together, or plug a hole.
The technique is not too difficult. Practice on scrap first. An unregulated soldering iron is way too hot, so move quickly and try to avoid getting things so hot there's smoke. Smoke means the plastic is deteriorating, and the repair could be weakened when it solidifies. (Inexpensive plastic-welding outfits are available.. check HarborFreighttools.com )
You might use a piece of similar plastic as a "welding rod" to fill a crack or hole. I dunno exactly what type of plastic the reservoir's made of, but I'd guess it's some common, temperature resistant stuff.. probably HDPE (High-density polyethylene... milk carton). In my experience, any similarly soft, milky-white translucent (like a milk carton) scrap plastic is close enough..
Are you positive the leak is from the reservoir? I thought I had one but upon further investigation, it was.. a radiator hose? No. It was from the radiator fins near the top of the radiator on that side... Corrosion finally ate through and pinholes were evident. A greenish discolored spot crumbled under my touch.
A new aluminum radiator was one of the best things I've given my old car.
------
So, how have you tried to patch it?
No glue will stick, but since it's a somewhat thick plastic, you might try a soldering iron. Melt the seam or crack together, or plug a hole.
The technique is not too difficult. Practice on scrap first. An unregulated soldering iron is way too hot, so move quickly and try to avoid getting things so hot there's smoke. Smoke means the plastic is deteriorating, and the repair could be weakened when it solidifies. (Inexpensive plastic-welding outfits are available.. check HarborFreighttools.com )
You might use a piece of similar plastic as a "welding rod" to fill a crack or hole. I dunno exactly what type of plastic the reservoir's made of, but I'd guess it's some common, temperature resistant stuff.. probably HDPE (High-density polyethylene... milk carton). In my experience, any similarly soft, milky-white translucent (like a milk carton) scrap plastic is close enough..
I used a molded plastic you form and put on the container. It had a hole in it when I purchased the car and it worked for a while but I guess the vibration and all it started leaking again. I went to harbor freight and looked at what you suggested and I think that might work better. I will take the tank off and try it that way and if that doesnt work try and find a used one at a local junk yard
I bought one of the plastic-kits at the Harbor Freight store near me... on sale for maybe $25. It was the kind with the air hose and requires a compressor for air flow (like a professional, production plastic welding setup).
I've done lots of regular welding, but could not get the hang of it.. maybe it was just a cheap, poor quality tool.
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When i got this car, the front license plate mount had been crushed and cracked to pieces, and the 2 or 3 scrapyard ones in good condition were riveted onto their bumpers. I didn't have the tools to remove them in the yard.. (battery-drill and a drill bit?)
Since I wasn't too concerned about looks, I tried a regular soldering iron. I took my time and it worked out fine. Welded all the cracks and straightened it all out. You gotta look close to notice the repair.
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Certain plastics are used in hot engine compartments partly because they are practically inert. No common chemicals affect them.. gasoline (which contains everything from acetone to toluene), oils, brake fluid, hot antifreeze (glycols are alcohols), etc.
But being chemically resistant also means that no glues or adhesives bond to them (unlike ABS or PVC used in plumbing, which are easily dissolved by their respective adhesives).
The way to get something (like a patch) to stick to these plastics is to roughen up the surfaces.. Then the adhesive (epoxy or superglue or whatever) has some "tooth" to grab and hold onto. At best the bond is extremely weak compared to a thermoplastic weld.
I've done lots of regular welding, but could not get the hang of it.. maybe it was just a cheap, poor quality tool.
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When i got this car, the front license plate mount had been crushed and cracked to pieces, and the 2 or 3 scrapyard ones in good condition were riveted onto their bumpers. I didn't have the tools to remove them in the yard.. (battery-drill and a drill bit?)
Since I wasn't too concerned about looks, I tried a regular soldering iron. I took my time and it worked out fine. Welded all the cracks and straightened it all out. You gotta look close to notice the repair.
------
Certain plastics are used in hot engine compartments partly because they are practically inert. No common chemicals affect them.. gasoline (which contains everything from acetone to toluene), oils, brake fluid, hot antifreeze (glycols are alcohols), etc.
But being chemically resistant also means that no glues or adhesives bond to them (unlike ABS or PVC used in plumbing, which are easily dissolved by their respective adhesives).
The way to get something (like a patch) to stick to these plastics is to roughen up the surfaces.. Then the adhesive (epoxy or superglue or whatever) has some "tooth" to grab and hold onto. At best the bond is extremely weak compared to a thermoplastic weld.
got it to stop
I took the tank out and cleaned it up with a wire wheel and applied the bond to it and let it sit overnight and installed it the next day seems to be working good for now. I did get the number from the tank to see if I can find another one just in case it starts to leak again.
I took the tank out and cleaned it up with a wire wheel and applied the bond to it and let it sit overnight and installed it the next day seems to be working good for now. I did get the number from the tank to see if I can find another one just in case it starts to leak again.
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
1985 and 1986 are interesting years.
Would your recovery tank, by chance, have a dipstick?
Would your recovery tank, by chance, have a dipstick?
OldSchool1
Dedicated LVC Member
In that case my Friend, you can use ANY coolant resevoir from 1985 to 1992.