Cold engine stalling

[Ron Brownie]

I have a '93 Conti - 3.8 litre.
Recently I replaced: timing chain cover gasket, fuel pump gasket, and the water pump gasket (replaced the water pump 1,000km ago.). This because I had a major oil leak that turned out to be a failure of the timing chain cover gasket. Now having completed these things, the engine stalls whenever I first start it up. Generally when it's cold, but even if it has been driven for some time, then shut off for 1.5 hours. Seems to me as if there no longer is any provision for cold engine fast idle. Of course, the idle and timing are not adjustable. I did have the distributor in wrong initially (one tooth out), but corrected that. The alternator subsequently failed (probably because it was a used one that I bought for $50.00 - slap on the hand for that) and I replaced it with a new one, hoping that might be part of the problem, but no improvement. I have been experiencing the chronic problem with the electronic dash telling me that things aren't working when they actually are, and decided to get around that the lazy way (disconnected the buzzer thing).

Can anyone point me in the right direction, please???

 

[MichiganTeddyBear]

I would suspect the IAC (Idle Air Control) as being the culprit here. Pretty common problem with stalling/idling problems on all the EEC-IV based ford engines (about everything fuel injected up to OBD in 96).

you can try to clean it, but that typically is a stop gap fix on the conti. Fords official position is that they cant be cleaned on the conti. replacements are not too expensive.

Idle speed is computer controlled using the IAC, but base ignition timing IS adjustable. Disconnect the SPOUT connector, and set it to 10 degree BTC. I believe the SPOUT connector is either on the firewall, or near distributor. if you dont disconnect it, you will end up with timing that is set WAY wrong.

Also, is the computer giving any codes (you can have codes stored, but no check engine light).

And last, the dash problem is fixable, if your inclined to do it.

 

[Ron Brownie]

Thanks for the advice - you always come to the rescue! I'll work my way through it now that I have an idea where to look. I know the dash problem is fixable, but I don't yet have the courage to try to pull the cluster - maybe in the future.

 

[MichiganTeddyBear]

pulling the cluster itself is actually very easy. its the disassembly and rework of it (if it needs soldering) thats not for the faint of heart.

if you can live without the cluster for a few days, I can resolder it for ya. just pay shipping both ways is all I ask

 

[Ron Brownie]

pulling the cluster itself is actually very easy. its the disassembly and rework of it (if it needs soldering) thats not for the faint of heart.

if you can live without the cluster for a few days, I can resolder it for ya. just pay shipping both ways is all I ask

Thanks, but I have a grandson that pulls clusters from Tiburons and replaces all of the smds, so I'm sure we can manage if I ever decide to do so.

 

[MichiganTeddyBear]

no problem. basically all it probably needs is the 2 (or 3, depending on year) black connectors on the PCB's that go to the wiring harness redone.