"Real" p/n 1F1Z-14489-AA. $5.17 per at tascaparts.com...... $5.53 @ Team Ford.
Coil connector
- Thread starter LS4me
- Start date
"Real" p/n 1F1Z-14489-AA. $5.17 per at tascaparts.com...... $5.53 @ Team Ford.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Get yours yet?
I ordered 4 last night. Only really need one, but i thought it might be good to just do the whole side?
I ordered 4 last night. Only really need one, but i thought it might be good to just do the whole side?
Got them yesterday. I'm waiting for this........
from Pelican Parts (it's 7mm, not the 18mm displayed on the socket). I'll probably get to this during the holiday weekend.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
what would that be for?
.The bolt nearest the brake booster. It will also work nicely on the middle, lower bolt on the same (driver's) side.
dNyce LS
Dedicated LVC Member
+1 that socket makes things a lot easier, coupled with the right extension.
OK, so I ended up breaking apart the plastic housing. I pushed and pushed with a small jeweler's flat head driver and my dental pick. No matter how hard I pushed I could not get the connector to budge. I was pushing on the center of the lead. I also tried pushing on the top part of the lead with no success.
Inserting the lead back into the housing was also no picnic! What's the secret to that?
Inserting the lead back into the housing was also no picnic! What's the secret to that?
So no silicone rigging needed?
Nope. After replacing the #8 connector I went back and checked the other 7. The driver's side was fine so I went to check the passenger side. The zip-ties I used to secure the coils turned very brittle in the short amount of time they were on. After removing the ties all the connectors slipped right off the coil. I pushed the connector onto the coil and gently lifted up on the tab; then checked to see if the connector was secure. That worked like a charm until I got to coil #4. That tab snapped so I had to replace that connector too. It seems the rear most coils (#s 4 & 8) receive the most heat. I wonder if there's a way to evacuate the heat from those (and keep water out) valleys to keep the coils cooler.........
Just to be sure, This is the same part for a Gen I, correct? I broke two of mine when replacing the plugs.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Easy as pie.............after you do the first one.
I had a bugger of a time trying to get the pins out so I just carefully broke up the old connectors with a pair of channel-locks. I used some WD-40 to seat the pins in the new connectors.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Took my mechanic all of 10 mins for 2. I didnt realize that what i had ordered were only the black plastic parts(i thought they included wiring or some complex stuff) otherwise i would have done it myself. I had plenty of practice from reversing the polarity from when i had Accel coils.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Only if they're broken. I would just replace the broken ones. They literally are just the black plastic part.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
Engine Fail safe mode
Ok so i replaced the connectors, and the car is running fine for the most part. Runs rough occasionally, but seems to have power MOST of the time. No more CEL. However, its still occasionally going into engine fail safe mode.
So I need a little help:
Before i replaced the connectors, i was getting Code P0351 almost everyday and the car was running like crap. That was the only code I was getting until a couple of days before replacing the connector i got a code for the throttle body (I forget the code).
So now, after replacing the connector, no more CELs but the car is still occasionally going into fail safe mode. I have to pull over, turn the car off and restart it and it usually doesn't happen again for a few days. I noticed its happened when i give it a good amount of throttle from a stop. Like at a light or something.
So here's my question:
Is it possible that with the failing connector the coil could have gone bad and its causing the fail safe mode and the code for the throttle body? or does it seem like the there's actually something wrong with the throttle body?
Also the wire that leads to the connector for cylinder #1 seems have been squished. Like someone closed the coil cover over it. And the sleeve peeled off to the point where you can see the little wires (or fibers w.e you call it). Could this be related to the problem?
Notes:
- Coils are Visteon, which i put in with brand new NGK plugs less than 10K ago
- The throttle body was replaced by a local (small) ford dealer in 2008 at about 80K, car now has about 135k. This was back when i didn't know about this site. Apparently they didn't get the memo either about the issues these cars had with coils, so they replaced the throttle body and later on realized it was coils
Ok so i replaced the connectors, and the car is running fine for the most part. Runs rough occasionally, but seems to have power MOST of the time. No more CEL. However, its still occasionally going into engine fail safe mode.
So I need a little help:
Before i replaced the connectors, i was getting Code P0351 almost everyday and the car was running like crap. That was the only code I was getting until a couple of days before replacing the connector i got a code for the throttle body (I forget the code).
So now, after replacing the connector, no more CELs but the car is still occasionally going into fail safe mode. I have to pull over, turn the car off and restart it and it usually doesn't happen again for a few days. I noticed its happened when i give it a good amount of throttle from a stop. Like at a light or something.
So here's my question:
Is it possible that with the failing connector the coil could have gone bad and its causing the fail safe mode and the code for the throttle body? or does it seem like the there's actually something wrong with the throttle body?
Also the wire that leads to the connector for cylinder #1 seems have been squished. Like someone closed the coil cover over it. And the sleeve peeled off to the point where you can see the little wires (or fibers w.e you call it). Could this be related to the problem?
Notes:
- Coils are Visteon, which i put in with brand new NGK plugs less than 10K ago
- The throttle body was replaced by a local (small) ford dealer in 2008 at about 80K, car now has about 135k. This was back when i didn't know about this site. Apparently they didn't get the memo either about the issues these cars had with coils, so they replaced the throttle body and later on realized it was coils
IMHO, this IS your problem. Electricity is "leaking" from from the break in the insulation. I would start with; a) if any of the wires are broken splice in a new section, or b) if not cover the open section with electrical tape.
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
I thought this was the culprit as well, but with no more CELs and the car running relatively fine after replacing the connector i began to have doubts.
I tried the electrical tape solution before replacing the connector and it seemed to fix the problem for a few days, but the problems returned just as they had been before.
I may have to try to get my mechanic to splice in a new section, or are there other people/shops better suited for this job?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you replace the connector (pins and shell), or just the shell?
The pins and the coil may have been damaged during the time the connector was loose.
The plug may have been damaged during the time the connector was loose.
The pinched wire(s) is definitely a problem. you need to cut that section out and splice in (solder and heatshrink) new wire(s).
The pins and the coil may have been damaged during the time the connector was loose.
The plug may have been damaged during the time the connector was loose.
The pinched wire(s) is definitely a problem. you need to cut that section out and splice in (solder and heatshrink) new wire(s).
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
I just had the shell replaced.
Damm ok I will have to get this done then. Should i start with the wire and see if the issue is resolved or just replace everything (wire, coil, plug) at once? I guess its up to me...
Joe, any idea if the wire(pins) are sold by ford? if so, part #? or will any generic wire do?
Also, it doesn't seem like the throttle body right?
Thanks LS4me and Joe!