Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
Replaced the thermostat parts, turned the car on and it went straight to limp mode and check engine light was on, buddy scanned and these codes came up.....
Codes after replacing thermostat parts
- Thread starter Benjaminws
- Start date
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
P1235 Fuel Pump Control out of range ...This could be triggering all the rest...Try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and reconnect ...it might allow the Fuel Pump to reset itself back to Factory Specifications ...I had to do this once when I changed out my Fuel Pump assembly
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
I will try that, thank you
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Which all parts did you change? Did you disconnect the plug on the throttle body... and forget to reconnect it?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Please note that he posted P2135, not P1235. You are leading him way off in the wrong direction. His throttle body is not properly electrically connected. The locking tabs on the connector break very easily.
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
Everything seems to be connected correctly
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Pull the plug back off the throttle body and make sure no tabs/pins got bent somehow.
When re-plugging... make sure the connector seats fully. There is a definite "snap/click" when the connector fully seats.
It's also possible that a wire may have broken in the harness at/near the throttle body connector.
When re-plugging... make sure the connector seats fully. There is a definite "snap/click" when the connector fully seats.
It's also possible that a wire may have broken in the harness at/near the throttle body connector.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Probably should have asked this question from the beginning. What year LS?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
And again... which all parts did you replace?
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
I certainly missed that one ...thanks for the correction Joe
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
So everything seems to be connected, posted some pix, that is the parts I replaced, I unplugged the mass airflow sensor while it was running seemed to sound better when it was unplugged, could the sensor be dirty??
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Something doesn't look right inside the connector on the throttle body.
I see 3 pins... and a shiny spot at the one to the upper left... like that pin is broken off.
Look closely at the first pic you posted.
....... yup... after a 2nd look... that top pin is broken and folded down.
I see 3 pins... and a shiny spot at the one to the upper left... like that pin is broken off.
Look closely at the first pic you posted.
....... yup... after a 2nd look... that top pin is broken and folded down.
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
What's that piece called?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
You are gonna have to replace your Throttle Position Sensor.
That can be a bit tricky... because the screws will sometimes snap off... causing bigger problems.
Sometimes carefully heating up the throttle body will help get the screws out... but it is best to remove the whole throttle body to do that.
If this is getting beyond your skill level... or you are uncomfortable doing this... it might be best to contact a knowledgeable mechanic buddy.
That can be a bit tricky... because the screws will sometimes snap off... causing bigger problems.
Sometimes carefully heating up the throttle body will help get the screws out... but it is best to remove the whole throttle body to do that.
If this is getting beyond your skill level... or you are uncomfortable doing this... it might be best to contact a knowledgeable mechanic buddy.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
That top pin IS broken... correct??? It's kinda hard to be positive by the pic.
The plug looks ok though.
The plug looks ok though.
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
Definitely looks like its bent back, I soon as I saw it, it didnt look right, I've heard about having to heat the part up to get the screws out
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Whoever does the job is going to have to pull the throttle body from the plemum that goes to the intake manifold.
You will want to replace that gasket. Fel-Pro part #61510.
The 4 bolts are easy enough to get to. Re-torque to 89 inch pounds.
There are typically 2 small TB heater hoses that will also have to be removed.
Once the TB is removed from the engine... secure it in some sort if clamping device... and position it so that the screws can be easily accessed.
Use a small butane pencil torch... and focus the heat on the width of the flange of the TB... slightly to the rear where the screw pokes through. Try turning the screw as you heat the flange. As soon as the screw starts turning... back the torch away. Do this for both screws. Obviously its gonna be a challenge to hold the TB, and the torch, and turn the screwdriver at the same time. Thus the suggestion of clamping the TB somehow.
When you go to install the new TPS... put some blue Loc-tite on the screws, (if the new ones don't have it on them already)... and run them down snug.
You haven't given the year of your LS... but the TPS Motorcraft part # should be DY1164. It should come with installation instructions. Don't go cheap here
You will have to re-bleed your cooling system again... due to removing the TB heater hoses.
You will want to replace that gasket. Fel-Pro part #61510.
The 4 bolts are easy enough to get to. Re-torque to 89 inch pounds.
There are typically 2 small TB heater hoses that will also have to be removed.
Once the TB is removed from the engine... secure it in some sort if clamping device... and position it so that the screws can be easily accessed.
Use a small butane pencil torch... and focus the heat on the width of the flange of the TB... slightly to the rear where the screw pokes through. Try turning the screw as you heat the flange. As soon as the screw starts turning... back the torch away. Do this for both screws. Obviously its gonna be a challenge to hold the TB, and the torch, and turn the screwdriver at the same time. Thus the suggestion of clamping the TB somehow.
When you go to install the new TPS... put some blue Loc-tite on the screws, (if the new ones don't have it on them already)... and run them down snug.
You haven't given the year of your LS... but the TPS Motorcraft part # should be DY1164. It should come with installation instructions. Don't go cheap here
You will have to re-bleed your cooling system again... due to removing the TB heater hoses.
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Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
2006
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Note that a few people have had mild to big overheating problems using that aftermarket assembly.
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
That's not the one I got, I got oem
Benjaminws
Active LVC Member
front or rear gasket
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
There's only the one, no front or rear. He's talking about the gasket between the intake manifold and the throttle body adapter. I've reused mine without trouble, but it's not a bad idea. However, he's wrong that they have to "pull the throttle body." I haven't the last time or three. To me, it's easier to remove the intake manifold, leaving the throttle body attached. If they go that way, then you will need new intake manifold gaskets (2, left and right side).
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Actually... I'm talking about the front gasket. The one between the throttle body and the throttle body adapter.
Maybe I'm missing something Joe... or maybe you misread something... but I see no reason to pull the intake, in order to pull the throttle body off the engine to replace the TPS???
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Fel-Pro part #61510
