Clunking from front?

[warrioralumni08]

Been going on ever since I got the car, you can hear it through bumps. potholes, etc, it just sounds like something clunking. I'll drive it straight and it's constant even without bumps on both sides it sounds like but not sure. I mean, could it be the lower control arm bushing to subframe? Sway bar end links? Wheel hub bearings? Any suggestion on where I need to start looking? And if thats not bad, my poor door handle broke on me today, just is very loose and opens still, heard something drop inside the door when i pulled on it, but I found some threads on it, and shall tackle it this weekend. Just hate the fact it's all happening to me, I thought it was going to be a great car. :shifty:

 

[chris2523]

sway bar end links.

 

[Spree]

Stabilizer bar end links is where I'd start. Once they start rattling they don't stop.

 

[Markviiiedrea]

Jack the car up and let the lower control arms rest on the jack stands. Do a shakedown (side-to-side, up-and-down). Inspect the strut-rod bushings, those will also make a good knocking sound if there bad. Sway bar end links are cheap and probably never been done.

IMHO, A front suspension is something you want to fix all at once (tie-rod, SRB, upper & lower CA, SB end links) once one part starts going bad it will work the other ones harder causing them to go as well.

 

[Sapperfire]

Jack the car up and let the lower control arms rest on the jack stands. Do a shakedown (side-to-side, up-and-down). Inspect the strut-rod bushings, those will also make a good knocking sound if there bad. Sway bar end links are cheap and probably never been done.

IMHO, A front suspension is something you want to fix all at once (tie-rod, SRB, upper & lower CA, SB end links) once one part starts going bad it will work the other ones harder causing them to go as well.

Sway bar end links cheap?? $76 each I wouldn't call that cheap. Just make sure you get a good brand (I recommend TRW ) with lifetime warranty so you've only gotta buy it one time. Then go scan the receipt in your computer because most places use that paper that erases itself if you look at it funny

Its still a great car, EVERY car on the planet has issues, even brand new cars. For door handles.. I suggest finding Continental chromes, if you want to paint them to match just scuff the chrome and use self etching primer, then prime and paint

 

[soduka]

Sway bar end links cheap?? $76 each I wouldn't call that cheap. Just make sure you get a good brand (I recommend TRW ) with lifetime warranty so you've only gotta buy it one time. Then go scan the receipt in your computer because most places use that paper that erases itself if you look at it funny

Its still a great car, EVERY car on the planet has issues, even brand new cars. For door handles.. I suggest finding Continental chromes, if you want to paint them to match just scuff the chrome and use self etching primer, then prime and paint

$74 for both of them including shipping on Rockauto, Moog brand. You can go much cheaper than that. I don't know how or where you could spend $76 each, the most expensive I see is Motorcraft for $45 each. Unless you actually buy auto parts from a chain store, but then you're just asking to get ripped off.

 

[Markviiiedrea]

Stay away from moog, cant go wrong with motorcraft though. See whats wrong first before you start buying things.

 

[soduka]

Stay away from moog.

Then stay away from TRW, they're the same thing manufactured at the same plant nowadays. Only thing I've ever heard bad about Moog for these cars was the strut rod bushings and I've never had a problem with any of their other parts, of which I've used plenty in plenty of applications.

 

[davidm]

The rear shock mounts can make a clunk sound also.

These Sway Bar links have been working for me, my Moog links did not hold grease very well, lasted a couple of years.

MEVOTECH Part # MK8635
{#K8635}
Front

$21.79
Rock Auto, they do have grease fittings and are stout.

 

[chris2523]

the TRW end links look different than the moog end links.
the TRW ones are straight, and the moog ones have a bend.

get the straight ones (TRW).

stay away from moog strut rod bushings. i have other moog suspensions parts, UCAs and LCAs, and they are just fine. i'm rocking way heavier than stock brakes, wheels, and tires as well.

 

[Sapperfire]

Noises are common on these every time I hit my gas pedal its makes this loud RrrrrrrrrrT sound

 

[thaywood]

:lol: I have pretty much everything new under the front of my car. But I still have clunks and rattles. It's very irritating. I rebuilt the front end a couple of years ago with cheap chinese junk I bought off fleabay thinking I could save a little money Anyhoo, ended up replacing everything but the sway bar end links with new made in USA Moog parts. I think I am going to need to do the sway bar links next. That's the only thing I can see that could possibly be rattling. Everything else is tight. And even though I put brand new shocks in the back last year, I've got that damned "clunk" noise again that sounds like the upper shock bushing going out If it ain't one thing it's ten others...

 

[Sapperfire]

:lol: I have pretty much everything new under the front of my car. But I still have clunks and rattles. It's very irritating. I rebuilt the front end a couple of years ago with cheap chinese junk I bought off fleabay thinking I could save a little money Anyhoo, ended up replacing everything but the sway bar end links with new made in USA Moog parts. I think I am going to need to do the sway bar links next. That's the only thing I can see that could possibly be rattling. Everything else is tight. And even though I put brand new shocks in the back last year, I've got that damned "clunk" noise again that sounds like the upper shock bushing going out If it ain't one thing it's ten others...

Don't you have Air still? Have you bothered checking the front struts? Just because they hold air doesn't mean the shock inside is good. When the inner shock goes bad, they clunk

 

[thaywood]

Don't you have Air still? Have you bothered checking the front struts? Just because they hold air doesn't mean the shock inside is good. When the inner shock goes bad, they clunk

Doesn't sound like a shock "clunk". I do have Arnott shocks in the front. and I have had a set fail before. That's not the sound I'm hearing. It's more like two pieces of metal sort of "clanging" together. It's hard to describe but it's a "small" sound like two small metal pieces hitting each other very quickly especially over bumps. And I can feel it through the steering wheel...hmmm...now that I think about it, it may be the steering rack or tie rods. I don't know. It just drives me nuts.

 

[warrioralumni08]

sway bar end links.

Never would have thought they would cause such continuous clunking/rattling.

Stabilizer bar end links is where I'd start. Once they start rattling they don't stop.

Indeed this noise isn't stopping anytime soon, just hope nothing has been playing around in there, to mess something up pretty good.

Jack the car up and let the lower control arms rest on the jack stands. Do a shakedown (side-to-side, up-and-down). Inspect the strut-rod bushings, those will also make a good knocking sound if there bad. Sway bar end links are cheap and probably never been done.

IMHO, A front suspension is something you want to fix all at once (tie-rod, SRB, upper & lower CA, SB end links) once one part starts going bad it will work the other ones harder causing them to go as well.

Ill try that method, and also try to take care of the front suspension if possible in one shot.

Sway bar end links cheap?? $76 each I wouldn't call that cheap. Just make sure you get a good brand (I recommend TRW ) with lifetime warranty so you've only gotta buy it one time. Then go scan the receipt in your computer because most places use that paper that erases itself if you look at it funny

Its still a great car, EVERY car on the planet has issues, even brand new cars. For door handles.. I suggest finding Continental chromes, if you want to paint them to match just scuff the chrome and use self etching primer, then prime and paint

Haha funny paper receipt! Tis true though! Eh, just I have had problems ever since I got it, looked to be an easy fix, and was, but then **** just started happening.

The rear shock mounts can make a clunk sound also.

These Sway Bar links have been working for me, my Moog links did not hold grease very well, lasted a couple of years.

MEVOTECH Part # MK8635
{#K8635}
Front

$21.79
Rock Auto, they do have grease fittings and are stout.

It's definitely coming from the front. Also, they seem like a good deal, may have to try them out, but wouldn't mind having them available on the spot at a local part store.

the TRW end links look different than the moog end links.
the TRW ones are straight, and the moog ones have a bend.

get the straight ones (TRW).

stay away from moog strut rod bushings. i have other moog suspensions parts, UCAs and LCAs, and they are just fine. i'm rocking way heavier than stock brakes, wheels, and tires as well.

Was wondering if it mattered to get straight or bended sway bar end links. Thanks for answering my question! Just tired of driving it, hearing it constantly going down the road in a straight line, and for no reason it just clunks and rattles, gets a lil louder on bumps too. I guess I am just picky and want a perfect car, but you get what you pay for!

 

[Sapperfire]

Doesn't sound like a shock "clunk". I do have Arnott shocks in the front. and I have had a set fail before. That's not the sound I'm hearing. It's more like two pieces of metal sort of "clanging" together. It's hard to describe but it's a "small" sound like two small metal pieces hitting each other very quickly especially over bumps. And I can feel it through the steering wheel...hmmm...now that I think about it, it may be the steering rack or tie rods. I don't know. It just drives me nuts.

This is such an easy check.

 

[Spree]

Sway bar end links cheap?? $76 each I wouldn't call that cheap. Just make sure you get a good brand (I recommend TRW ) with lifetime warranty so you've only gotta buy it one time. Then go scan the receipt in your computer because most places use that paper that erases itself if you look at it funny

Its still a great car, EVERY car on the planet has issues, even brand new cars. For door handles.. I suggest finding Continental chromes, if you want to paint them to match just scuff the chrome and use self etching primer, then prime and paint

$32 each at AZ, life time warranty. If they go bad just replace them for free again, but I doubt they will!

 

[Sapperfire]

$32 each at AZ, life time warranty. If they go bad just replace them for free again, but I doubt they will!

Dude, I wouldn't buy window cleaner at AZ for my car

 

[ford nut]

Never would have thought they would cause such continuous clunking/rattling.

They are the worst for clunking and rattling.

Was wondering if it mattered to get straight or bended sway bar end links. Thanks for answering my question! Just tired of driving it, hearing it constantly going down the road in a straight line, and for no reason it just clunks and rattles, gets a lil louder on bumps too. I guess I am just picky and want a perfect car, but you get what you pay for!

Nope don't matter, FWIW last set of Moog I bought one was assembled backwards one stud is longer the the other....and it does matter so off to the parts store I went

 

[thaywood]

This is such an easy check.

Okay... I'm old. Not quite as quick on the draw as I once was. I ain't got time to fart around. Get to the point.

 

[Sapperfire]

Okay... I'm old. Not quite as quick on the draw as I once was. I ain't got time to fart around. Get to the point.

Jack the front wheels up.. grab tire at 3:00 and 9:00 and turn the wheel left and right in a jiggle type fashion.. if there is ANY slop in the tie rods you'll feel it click-clunk . If there is any, then determine of its the Inner or Outer rods. This can be easily done with a buddy, one of you grab the inner rod and try to prevent it from moving as the wheel is jiggle left and right

Usually I just replace them in pairs anyway since it'll need an alignment regardless of what part you swap.

 

[thaywood]

Thanks. I'm probably going to do that anyway. But both front outer tie rod ends were replaced last summer (could be the inner ones). So it's possible, but doubtful that that's the problem. I'm still leaning toward sway bar links. But I won't know until I get under it again. And it's too cold today, I've got the kids with me this weekend, and I'm just fargin' lazy

 

[warrioralumni08]

Well, I haven't yet to replace the sway bar end links yet, but I have done the lower control arms and strut rod bushings, suspension feels way better already, but the clunking is still there of course and I plan to tackle that this weekend most likely. Guess I am just working my way from the bottom up, or just putting it off. Drove the car around again today, since I sold my Gen 1, and noticed it still is constant on bumps, and going straight, now I can get out of the car and rock it up and down in the front, and I hear nothing, but when rocked from side to side, you can hear it clunking. Now, is everyone absolutely sure its the sway bar end links?

 

[opmanf]

If you can push the car from side to side and get a clunk I would bet it's in the upper control arm bushings. My Moog (TRW) ones are clunking and only have 40k miles on them. I'd replace them since they have a lifetime warranty but I'm riding on Arnott bags and the Arnott's are a pain to remove since they don't like to compress unlike the oem ones.

 

[warrioralumni08]

Jacked the car up, shook from side to side and couldn't really tell. Its coming from the lower half of the suspension though. I do have one possibility in mind though. There are 3 sway bars on this car, right? Front, rear, and one in the middle of the k member? Or is that something else? I see that the two bushings are cracked and don't look too good and everytime it clunked it seemed the sway bar was in rhythm with it.