Climate is messed up AGAIN. DCCV is a stupid ass idea

lincoln_zero

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Driving along, temp set to 22c, nice luke warm, suddenly goes hotter than all hell. I drop down to 16c, turn on AC, and its coming mixed through my vents.

I JUST DID THE DCCV LAST SEPTEMBER. YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME.

My wife is laughing I cant get a month without a part failing. 134,000 kms (83k miles) on this thing, are you freaking kidding me???? WTF is wrong with this LS??

If anyone thinks it could possibly not be the DCCV, please, offer a suggestion before I set this fucking thing on fire.
 
Well, if you used an aftermarket part (I tried it once too)... I was going to say you get what you deserved, but that would be too harsh.
I can only relate my experiences here.

2004 LS, DCCV failed at about 66K miles or something like that. The replacement Motorcraft DCCV was still going good at 220K miles when the expansion valve failed and the car was traded.
2006 LS, DCCV failed somewhere after the 100K mark. The aftermarket replacement didn't make it a month. The Motorcraft replacement is still going strong at 216K miles.
In all cases, it was two hours or less of my time to replace it.

2005 Grand Marquis. No DCCV to fail, instead an air temperature blend door to fail. Replacement requires the full removal of the dash. Instead of two hours or less, it was two days work to do it. So you may feel the DCCV was a really stupid way to do it, but I promise, there are more stupider ways to do it.
 
LOL Leave it to Joegr to drop the humble-your-ass post. Thanks, I do appreciate it.

At this time I can't afford to pay my mechanic to do this. Yes it was an Amazon $70 part that failed. Ford wants $400 and thats just stupid. I can try and see if my father in law can do it with me, and I will negotiate with Ford, see if I can convince them to drop it $50
 
MotorCraft DCCV $120 on Amazon

Why not buy it off here?
At this time I can't afford to pay my mechanic to do this. Yes it was an Amazon $70 part that failed. Ford wants $400 and thats just stupid. I can try and see if my father in law can do it with me, and I will negotiate with Ford, see if I can convince them to drop it $50


Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve
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MotorCraft DCCV $120 on Amazon

Why not buy it off here?
At this time I can't afford to pay my mechanic to do this. Yes it was an Amazon $70 part that failed. Ford wants $400 and thats just stupid. I can try and see if my father in law can do it with me, and I will negotiate with Ford, see if I can convince them to drop it $50


Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve
60
Automotive
$120.32$120.32

FREE Shipping
Only 9 left in stock - order soon
 
At this time I can't afford to pay my mechanic to do this. Yes it was an Amazon $70 part that failed. Ford wants $400 and thats just stupid. I can try and see if my father in law can do it with me, and I will negotiate with Ford, see if I can convince them to drop it $50


Motorcraft YG378 Heater Valve
60
Automotive
$120.32$120.32

FREE Shipping
Only 9 left in stock - order soon

MotorCraft DCCV $120 on Amazon

Why not buy it off here?
 
Driving along, temp set to 22c, nice luke warm, suddenly goes hotter than all hell. I drop down to 16c, turn on AC, and its coming mixed through my vents.

I JUST DID THE DCCV LAST SEPTEMBER. YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME.

My wife is laughing I cant get a month without a part failing. 134,000 kms (83k miles) on this thing, are you freaking kidding me???? WTF is wrong with this LS??

If anyone thinks it could possibly not be the DCCV, please, offer a suggestion before I set this fucking thing on fire.
By the way ...if you have an air pocket in your cooling system it will also give you a false positive with different air temps coming out of different vents...just to rule this out maybe check your coolant temp with LIVE FEED Scanner
 
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By the way ...if you have an air pocket in your cooling system it will also give you a false positive with different air temps coming out of different vents...just to rule this out maybe check your coolant temp with LIVE FEED Scanner

OOOH
OK. So we did my Coolant bottle a month ago. Maybe that would explain? So to rectify this would I have to bleed the system?
 
As for the .com sellers:

With Covid-19 causing havoc on shipping, I don't know if or when I'll get parts. I try to source locally in Canada because this government likes to find its citizens and stick them in the alps with import and duty fees.

I'll try bleeding my coolant system and hope for the best.
 
If your car has two hoses going to the heater core, and you can feel flow through one of them (hot) but you are not calling for any heat, then it is probably safe to say that the dccv is the problem. The test parameters would be, cold start, minimum temp setting or completely off on the climate control unit, start the engine, monitor the operating temp, and when the engine is fully warm, check the heater hoses for their temp.
 
Can air in the system cause the DCCV to fail? Can it damage it?
No, and with all due respect, air in the cooling system can't cause your symptoms. Air in the cooling system could cause it to not heat or heat poorly, but it can't cause it to put out hot air when you are calling for cooled air.
 
FWIW...I drove 20 minutes to my Mechanic to have my LS professionally bled ...on the way there my vents were putting out cold air on one side and hot air on the other side ...I figured the aftermarket DCCV had failed ...when I arrived I told my Mechanic that my Aftermarket DCCV must have failed ...bought it off of Amazon Open Box Deals for $12.99 DADE Brand

Dade Heater Control Water Valve HVAC for 2000-2003 Jaguar S-Type XR822975 1147412148
After he professionally bled the system he said your DCCV is working perfect now...I couldn't believe it ...he said Air Pockets can do crazy things to a car...
but maybe it was a glitch ...all I know is my DADE Brand DCCV has performed flawlessly ever since that day
 
** UPDATE **

So my wife took my LS to her dad who bled the system. He said there was some air in it. (A little side note: I took it to a mechanic this week for an oil change. He "Accidentally" opened my radiator cap and let air in, according to him. It sprayed all over my motor. Will not take my car back to this quack). My father in law topped up the lost coolant.

Anyways, air temps are now normal. Although external temp was 8 Celsius today, I was able to set my temp up and down and get the desired air. However, when I put it to low (16c), and turn on AC, it comes out fridged on my left 2 vents, and right two are semi cold. Like the middle right and the right vent feel like outside air... maybe a tad cooler.

Any thoughts?
 
** UPDATE **

So my wife took my LS to her dad who bled the system. He said there was some air in it. (A little side note: I took it to a mechanic this week for an oil change. He "Accidentally" opened my radiator cap and let air in, according to him. It sprayed all over my motor. Will not take my car back to this quack). My father in law topped up the lost coolant.

Anyways, air temps are now normal. Although external temp was 8 Celsius today, I was able to set my temp up and down and get the desired air. However, when I put it to low (16c), and turn on AC, it comes out fridged on my left 2 vents, and right two are semi cold. Like the middle right and the right vent feel like outside air... maybe a tad cooler.

Any thoughts?
Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-Demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes — DTCs)

On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.
• The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The diagnostic tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
• The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.

The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:
• can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
• is entered by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within 2 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
• concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
• reports individual on-demand DTCs as 4-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
• will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
• will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
• will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.
To exit the self-test, press the DEFROST button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed.

Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).

Front Panel DATC Module Display — Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.
• To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the RECIRC button within 2 seconds.
• The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
• The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
• All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
• Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
• DTCs shall be reported as a 4-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
• Pressing the front DEFROST button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
• Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
• Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.




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...Any thoughts?

The system controls air temperature by PWMing the two solenoids in the DCCV. Those solenoids open and close small valves that then control larger valves that control the flow of coolant through the heater cores, from none to full. The OEM valves are smooth enough that it works correctly and the valve are able to open a partial amount proportional to the PWM percentage and correctly stay there. My experience with the aftermarket DCCV, was that it mostly (but not entirely) worked correctly for the first week or three. After that, it was unable to correctly hold position between full on and full off. Instead, it tended to swing to full open or full close whenever the DATC was only calling for it to open or close a few percent more. The result was sudden full heat alternating with sudden full cool.
 

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