changing plugs and wires..question

K

keVIIIn

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2011
Messages
2,432
Reaction score
118
Location
Chi
Done a little searching and I've seen a few different opinions on the procedure. I bought some autolite 764s and a set of new motorcraft plug wires.

Just so I get this right, plugs should be gapped at .054-.056, torqued to 7 ft/lbs correct?

Also I've seen some say to use antiseize on threads and some say not to..thoughts on this?
Is this one of those things that may cause a plug to blow out if you use antiseize?

Any tips on removal? Make sure engine is dead cold, blow the crap out of the plug wells with compressed air, anything else?

I've heard of a procedure on changing plugs on aluminum head engines..and it goes like this..start with a cold engine, crack plugs loose to break free any carbon build up, retighten and put plug wires back on, start up engine and rev to 4k for a few seconds to blow any carbon debris that came off plug threads out of the combustion chamber, shut car off and remove plugs all the way...this is to minimize any chance of debris ruining the threads as you remove the plugs. Does this sound valid? Any thoughts or advice is appreciated. Thanks!
 
i tape my extension to the socket so's it doesn't fall off.....I've not blown debris around/out...if anything I'd think using a vac might be wise?
 
torque:

driller said:
Manual says 6.6 to 7.3 lb-ft for '93, 6.5 to 15 lb-ft for '94, 7 to 15 lb-ft for '95-'96 and 12 to 15 lb-ft for '97 and '98. :confused:
Click to expand...

so, pick one..?

.054 gap.

i don't use antiseize, i do it on a cold engine, i don't really ever see any debris in the plug wells, and i don't rev the engine.
 
Kevin, no need to blow out the holes and anti-seize is surely not needed. I have never used it and never had a problem when changing them again. I never had one blow out either and I have wound it out quite a few times. I tape the plug to my socket so that it doesn't fall off into the hole. My rubber piece doesn't hold well and I don't take a chance with the plug falling down in there. No need to come back and remove and clean either. Just install with a .054 gap and torque to spec and you'll be good to go.
 
Cool thanks for the tips..I got the intake tube and all the covers and crap out of the way and looked down into the plug well and it looks spotless clean so yeah I don't think I have to worry about blowing anything out of there.
 
I don't have a torque wrench and I've never had a problem. Even if I had a torque wrench, unless it is calibrated I wouldn't trust it. I borrowed one from the auto parts store and promptly broke a head bolt with it (not on one of my Marks). I took it back and borrowed another one. That one didn't feel right either so I gave up and didn't use it.

Anyway I just keep my hand centered on the ratchet part and don't leverage off the handle. That keeps me from over-tightening the spark plugs.
 
there's more stuff to move and unplug on the driver's side, can't remember what...kind of a pain the first time
 
dnsherrill said:
there's more stuff to move and unplug on the driver's side, can't remember what...kind of a pain the first time
Click to expand...

Yea I had to unbolt and move a small backet that held a vaccum hose going to the brake booster..that's about it. Only got as far as taking the spark plug boots off..realized my spark plug gapper only goes up to .045..gotta run to the parts store next day I'm off work to get a different one.

Turns out the plugs that are in my car are autolite xp 104s..I think they are a platinum plug..the threads are double the length as the 764s.
 
I always use anti-sieze stuff and the dielectric greese in the boots as well. I have mine changed when the car is slightly warm and we never really torq em down just get em pretty snug is all. so far ive been lucky. no blow outs no bad threads. I use .56 as the gap. typically i use the autolights but this time i went with motorcraft plats just to see what it was like.
 
I just changed my plugs/wires the other night on my gen 1, and it way more difficult than the change on a gen 2. I used no anti seize, and only s****** them down a bit. drove it to work this morning 84 miles away, ran it up to 6 grand a couple of times, and so far , no problems. I guess time will tell!
 
In my personal experience I haven't run across an incorrectly gapped spark plug new in box in many years now. I don't waste my time worrying about it anymore.
 
All 8 of the 764's I installed needed gapped. I use feeler gauges, not that little disk thingy.
 
Anyone have any tips on cleaning the engine without getting any of the electronics wet? Ill be leaving my engine cover off from now on and the area where the cover was is caked in dust and oil residue..is it safe to use some kind of solvent to clean some of the grime off the intake and wiring harness (part with the white tape that's now yellow and dingy looking) I've got a sh*t load of old gas that is now pretty much varnish so if I can get rid of it I'd like to.
 
Don't pour gas on your motor!!!!!

Use some WD-40 and a BUNCH of rags

You can hose down everything lower than the VCs and then warm the engine up. Most of the stuff will melt off
 
Sapperfire said:
Don't pour gas on your motor!!!!!

Use some WD-40 and a BUNCH of rags

You can hose down everything lower than the VCs and then warm the engine up. Most of the stuff will melt off
Click to expand...

Lol well I wasn't going to POUR it on just brush it to scrub the crap off..but wd40 is easy enough I guess. I was thinking of just getting some simple green and a stiff bristle brush to clean the intake and the little crevices and just be careful with the spray of the hose to rinse it.
 
You can use aluminum foil to cover up the coils and other electronics, it wraps tightly and is easy to remove when you are finished
 
keVIIIn said:
Anyone have any tips on cleaning the engine without getting any of the electronics wet? Ill be leaving my engine cover off from now on and the area where the cover was is caked in dust and oil residue..is it safe to use some kind of solvent to clean some of the grime off the intake and wiring harness (part with the white tape that's now yellow and dingy looking) I've got a sh*t load of old gas that is now pretty much varnish so if I can get rid of it I'd like to.
Click to expand...
Purple Power?
good tip on the foil Alan....that's the main reason I haven't cleaned mine so far...now I will
 
i usually just get the electronics wet... :lol:

i used hot water, and purple power through a pressure washer. i didn't spray directly at the engine, but it did good work on the undercarriage.

diluted purple power and a brush could be good.
these cleaners don't play well with aluminium usually, so don't let it sit around.
 
+1

I also use diluted Purple Power around areas where its painted. It will dull the clearcoat if you're not carefull. I use it full strength where theres gunk and grease especially under the car. Best results if you combine your cleaning efforts with HOT water through a pressure washer.

I get my hot water through a "Y" tap I installed behind my laundry washer.
image.jpg

I then run a hose from here to the pressure washer.

image.jpg
 
Got the plugs and wires on..did a little clean up with some wd40 and lots of scrubbing. Props to Joe (stang1) for the amputated intake tube. Nothing too exciting but at least its cleaned up..no more useless engine cover.

Before
20130806_153624_zps20eeef24.jpg


After
20130809_165712_zps790aadce.jpg
 
Kevin, you can cut off that loom that runs across the intake and replace it. Very cheap and easy. Makes a huge difference visually and fresh loom will protect the wires better than the old crusty stuff. Also the cross-over fuel hoses with fuel line clamps :)
Lookin better so far
 
K, did you pressure wash it? what all did you cover before spraying? coil packs and alt?
 
Sapper ya I thought about cutting off that white tape and putting something else on it but didn't have any tape that would hold up against the heat, plus I just wanted to get it done and buttoned back up so I could take it to the local car show..that can be another days project.

As for cleaning it I went with sapper's suggestion and sprayed some wd40 on some of the caked on dirt and grime and let it sit for a bit, wiped it off and repeated..didn't hose anything off other than the front of the motor to get the wd40 off the belt and the exhaust manifolds so it wouldn't smoke and burn off. I know people who've pressure washed a mark engine and not had a problem but I'm kinda weary about it with all the electronics on this engine and how finicky they can be.
 
Any loom will work, but use a name brand electrical tape to wrap the ends.. cheap tape is what it is

How'd the WD40 work for ya? From the pics it looks like the timing cover came fairly clean

If you decide to use a pressure washer, just do the foil wrap on coils and other electricals. Having an air compressor helps to blow out.connectors and just plug them back in if they get wet. Try not to hit the tops of the valve covers to avoid water from getting in the plug wells and cause misfiring
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 82 (members: 1, guests: 81)
Back
Top