Car Stuttering and Stalling

soccerplayer2007

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Hey Guys,

I decided to open a new thread to help troubleshoot some of the issues I've been experiencing as my other thread here has fizzled out.

Short Summary: Car stalled around thanksgiving 3 hours from home, gave me check transmission error and practically stalled on the highway. Got it home on a trailer, transmission shop and dealership couldn't find anything wrong except system too lean codes and a misfire.

I have fixed a cracked air box (replaced stock with K&N), changed out coils and plugs and replaced my fuel filter.

All of this has resulting in still having a system too lean code, now having a slight stuttering around 45MPH and while decelerating, and just this evening my car stalling when going 40MPH (no error codes displayed). Also, sometimes when driving at any speed (but mostly around 40MPH) it feels like an invisible hand is pushing against my car.

My next plan of action is to see about replacing/cleaning the crank shaft exhaust elbow (any tips on where to get one of these), MAF (when I disconnect it my car goes into fail safe mode), and/or cleaning or replacing the idle air control valve.

Obviously, the amount of knowledge here is enormous so I would be extremely grateful for any input and direction. Thanks in advance!
 
I'm sorry, what is a "crankshaft exhaust elbow?"

When you disconnect the MAF it goes into failsafe mode? Which one, Electronic Throttle failsafe or failsafe cooling? Either one will be identified on the message display. This is very unusual (actually I've never heard of it), and may give a clue as to what wires may be crossed. It is normal for it to go into limp mode with the MAF disconnected, but it certainly isn't supposed to go into either failsafe mode.

What do you mean by stalling at 40 MPH? Do you mean that you lose the ability to accelerate, but still have power steering and such, or do you mean that you lose all power, and get an oil light and a battery light? If it's the latter, then you have a PCM, PCM power, or transmission problem.
 
Thanks for your response joegr. You are very helpful and know which questions to ask.

I'm sorry, what is a "crankshaft exhaust elbow?"

I think I meant crankcase? What is on the end of 6a664 in this photo:
8381773051_66150828de.jpg



When you disconnect the MAF it goes into failsafe mode? Which one, Electronic Throttle failsafe or failsafe cooling? Either one will be identified on the message display. This is very unusual (actually I've never heard of it), and may give a clue as to what wires may be crossed. It is normal for it to go into limp mode with the MAF disconnected, but it certainly isn't supposed to go into either failsafe mode.

I'll check that out tomorrow and report back which one happens.

What do you mean by stalling at 40 MPH? Do you mean that you lose the ability to accelerate, but still have power steering and such, or do you mean that you lose all power, and get an oil light and a battery light? If it's the latter, then you have a PCM, PCM power, or transmission problem.

I lost all power. Got the oil light and battery light on. Lost power steering. Radio and lights stayed on. I was literally right outside my apartment place so I pulled in. Shut it off. Put her in park and turned her back on. Then everything was "fine."
 
Fresh Info

When I unplug the MAF and start the car it idles weird. Then I put it in drive, lightly accelerate and immediately get "ETC Engine Failsafe Mode" on the display center.

I decided to pull the codes again today as well, to see what came up after my work this weekend cleared the past codes.

This is what I had:

P0171
P0102
P0113
P2106
 
You may actually have a bad throttle body. (It's a known issue with some early 2003s.) However, marginal COPs are also known to cause false throttle body failure codes. Unless you have already done so since this has started, I would replace all the COPs and the spark plugs first. Even if it's not the problem this time, it needs to be done every so often anyway.
 
You may actually have a bad throttle body. (It's a known issue with some early 2003s.) However, marginal COPs are also known to cause false throttle body failure codes. Unless you have already done so since this has started, I would replace all the COPs and the spark plugs first. Even if it's not the problem this time, it needs to be done every so often anyway.

Good info, been doing some research at work and finding stuff about the throttle body. I just replaced the COPS and plugs three weeks ago based on your and others suggestions so I will now pursue getting the throttle body fixed. Thanks!

Off to call the Ford dealer.
 

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