well i got my car back from the dealer awhile ago. I took it in so the car overheating problem could be fixed. well i get it back then 2-3 days later im driving it with the a/c on and it overheats again. so i call them and tell them they suck and im bringing it back/ well i haven't brought it back yet but i was wondering the procedure is to bleed and service the cooling system.
car still runs hot
- Thread starter lessthan
- Start date
slabls
Active LVC Member
if none of your major cooling system parts are faulty & your fan is spinning, you're okay. i gaurentee all you need to do is change your thermostat and bleed the cooling system to let the air pockets out. my car was overheating and no one could diagnose, it was simply the thermostat and bleeding it.
hope this helps...
hope this helps...
yep. replace the thermostat to start. I finaly bled mine by pulling up a steep hill and letting it idle (with the heater on full blast) til the fan came on. as it pulls coolant out of the reservoir, add coolant. It took about 30 minutes before the level stayed full. No overheat for 2 years now. The dealer wanted to pressure test my tank and this and that...
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Here you go:
Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding
Draining
WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating
or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can
result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To
avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when
removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then
wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step
back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are
sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and
remove the pressure relief cap.
CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for
reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of
correctly.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not
become contaminated with engine coolant.
CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold
Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford
specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system
with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant
types.
Wrap a thick cloth around the coolant pressure relief cap on the degas
bottle. Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise (left) until the pressure
begins to release. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief
cap.
NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant can be recovered with the engine in the
vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement. Place a
suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the
coolant return hose at the oil cooler.
Close the radiator draincock when finished.
Filling-Bleeding
WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is
running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.
CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling
efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In
order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at
the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.
When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean,
drinkable water.
To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or
equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the
same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant
types.
Do not add Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 meeting Ford
specification WSS-M97B44-D (orange color). Mixing coolants can degrade the
coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, brine or any engine coolants mixed with
alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from
overheating or freezing.
Do not mix recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford
specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these
Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling
system components.
3.9L engines
Remove the engine fill cap. 3.0L engines
Open the engine air bleed. All engines
Open the heater air bleed.
Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no
more coolant can be added. 3.0L engines
Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape. All engines
Install the degas bottle cap. 3.9L engines CAUTION: Care must be taken to
make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine
coolant.
Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed
will remain open.
Install the engine fill cap.
Install the engine fill cap until contact is made. then tighten an
additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).
All engines
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open. Start the engine and turn the
heater to the MAX position.
Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during
engine idle.
Allow the engine to idle for five minutes. add coolant to the degas bottle
as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
Open the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again. 3.9L
engines
Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes
from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. 3.0L
engines
Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes
from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. All
engines
Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (OFF) and allow the vehicle to
idle for two minutes.
Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the
level to the cold fill MAX mark.
© 2008 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Terms of Use
Cooling System Draining, Filling and Bleeding
Draining
WARNING: Never remove the pressure relief cap while the engine is operating
or when the cooling system is hot. Failure to follow these instructions can
result in damage to the cooling system or engine or personal injury. To
avoid having scalding hot coolant or steam blow out of the degas bottle when
removing the pressure relief cap, wait until the engine has cooled, then
wrap a thick cloth around the pressure relief cap and turn it slowly. Step
back while the pressure is released from the cooling system. When you are
sure all the pressure has been released, (still with a cloth) turn and
remove the pressure relief cap.
CAUTION: The coolant must be recovered in a suitable, clean container for
reuse. If the coolant is contaminated it must be recycled or disposed of
correctly.
CAUTION: Care must be taken to make sure the accessory drive belt does not
become contaminated with engine coolant.
CAUTION: Vehicle cooling systems are filled with Motorcraft Premium Gold
Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or equivalent meeting Ford
specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Always fill the cooling system
with the same coolant that is present in the system. Do not mix coolant
types.
Wrap a thick cloth around the coolant pressure relief cap on the degas
bottle. Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise (left) until the pressure
begins to release. When the pressure is released, remove the pressure relief
cap.
NOTE: Less than 80% of coolant can be recovered with the engine in the
vehicle. Dirty, rusty or contaminated coolant requires replacement. Place a
suitable container below the radiator draincock. If equipped, disconnect the
coolant return hose at the oil cooler.
Close the radiator draincock when finished.
Filling-Bleeding
WARNING: Do not open the cooling system while it is hot or the engine is
running. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury.
CAUTION: Engine coolant provides freeze protection, boil protection, cooling
efficiency and corrosion protection to the engine and cooling components. In
order to obtain these protections, the engine coolant must be maintained at
the correct concentration and fluid level in the degas bottle.
When adding engine coolant, use a 50/50 mixture of engine coolant and clean,
drinkable water.
To maintain the integrity of the coolant and the cooling system:
Add Motorcraft Premium Gold Engine Coolant VC-7-A (in Oregon VC-7-B) or
equivalent meeting Ford specification WSS-M97B51-A1 (yellow color). Use the
same coolant that was drained from the cooling system. Do not mix coolant
types.
Do not add Motorcraft Specialty Orange Engine Coolant VC-2 meeting Ford
specification WSS-M97B44-D (orange color). Mixing coolants can degrade the
coolant's corrosion protection.
Do not add alcohol, methanol, brine or any engine coolants mixed with
alcohol or methanol antifreeze. These can cause engine damage from
overheating or freezing.
Do not mix recycled coolant unless it meets the requirements of Ford
specification WSS-M97B51-A1. Not all coolant recycling processes meet these
Ford specifications. Use of such coolants can harm the engine and cooling
system components.
3.9L engines
Remove the engine fill cap. 3.0L engines
Open the engine air bleed. All engines
Open the heater air bleed.
Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no
more coolant can be added. 3.0L engines
Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape. All engines
Install the degas bottle cap. 3.9L engines CAUTION: Care must be taken to
make sure the accessory drive belt does not become contaminated with engine
coolant.
Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed
will remain open.
Install the engine fill cap.
Install the engine fill cap until contact is made. then tighten an
additional 45 degrees (1/8 turn).
All engines
NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open. Start the engine and turn the
heater to the MAX position.
Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant escapes during
engine idle.
Allow the engine to idle for five minutes. add coolant to the degas bottle
as needed to maintain the cold fill MAX mark.
Open the heater air bleed to release any trapped air and close again. 3.9L
engines
Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes
from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. 3.0L
engines
Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes
from the heater.
Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater. All
engines
Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (OFF) and allow the vehicle to
idle for two minutes.
Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the
level to the cold fill MAX mark.
© 2008 ALLDATA LLC. All rights reserved.
Terms of Use
MMAFIGHTER121
Dedicated LVC Member
does anyone have some pictures of this procedure? or at least where the valves are for the V8?
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
In the tech articles section:
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/
MMAFIGHTER121
Dedicated LVC Member
thank you suh
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Fo sho
cableguynoe
Well-Known LVC Member
I've read all the information posted in this and other threads about overheating. In January I had my radiator flushed out at the dealer.
Would you guys recommend I still bleed it? (I'm assuming that covers it) Or can I just skip this step and replace the thermostat?
Would you guys recommend I still bleed it? (I'm assuming that covers it) Or can I just skip this step and replace the thermostat?
You may want to check and see if the rad is getting plugged up with road crap.
What you do is pull off the plastic cover that sits between the headlights so you can see between the ac and the rad.
If there's crap you can vacuum it out using the attachment for doing corners or some compressed air.
What you do is pull off the plastic cover that sits between the headlights so you can see between the ac and the rad.
If there's crap you can vacuum it out using the attachment for doing corners or some compressed air.
cableguynoe
Well-Known LVC Member
ok, it looks like the radiator is full of crap...
but is there a good way to clean it if I dont have an air compressor? The space is too tight for even the slim vaccum attachment.
Does anything have to be moved? Or should I find an air compressor?
Also, does that look like it would cause overheating?
but is there a good way to clean it if I dont have an air compressor? The space is too tight for even the slim vaccum attachment.
Does anything have to be moved? Or should I find an air compressor?
Also, does that look like it would cause overheating?
To do the ultimate job you would have to remove the rad or at least remove the fan and blow it out from behind.
I coincidentally looked at mine today while changing out one of my HID bulbs and there was some crap, less than yours and more near the top.
My air compressor at home is small and good for a nail gun so I couldn't get much cfm out of it but it did blow the stuff away.
Tomorrow I'll blow it out at the shop where we have a big air compressor.
In your case I would consider removing the rad or having it done and doing a good clean out job.
I coincidentally looked at mine today while changing out one of my HID bulbs and there was some crap, less than yours and more near the top.
My air compressor at home is small and good for a nail gun so I couldn't get much cfm out of it but it did blow the stuff away.
Tomorrow I'll blow it out at the shop where we have a big air compressor.
In your case I would consider removing the rad or having it done and doing a good clean out job.
Can't say for sure if it's causing your overheating but it's sure not helping.
Without seeing if the core is packed with finer debris it's hard to tell.
I think the compressed air may be enough to clean it up.
I'd do it as more debris will keep accumulating.
Blowing it out with compressed air is a no cost no big deal.
Without seeing if the core is packed with finer debris it's hard to tell.
I think the compressed air may be enough to clean it up.
I'd do it as more debris will keep accumulating.
Blowing it out with compressed air is a no cost no big deal.
97stscaddy
Dedicated LVC Member
Water hose.
cableguynoe
Well-Known LVC Member
Just want to update on what my problem was. After much frustration I took it to Midas. They did some kind of pressure test. They then told me they found a crack...or maybe it was cracks in the coolant reservoir. They said that when hot, it would allow air in, which would then cause the overheating.
So to replace the reservoir was about $200 plus by then I was into a one hour Diagnostics and another hour labor.
I dont think that's a bad deal considering I had gone to AAmco where they spent MANY hours diagnosing it and test driving it even kept it over night (All for free, mind you :lol: ) They did more than there "free diagnostics" cuz they really wanted to find the problem. And in the end they said i should start with the thermostat and take it from there...
So Midas gets 2 thumbs up from me... even though I know several of you in here frown apon places like Midas...
So to replace the reservoir was about $200 plus by then I was into a one hour Diagnostics and another hour labor.
I dont think that's a bad deal considering I had gone to AAmco where they spent MANY hours diagnosing it and test driving it even kept it over night (All for free, mind you :lol: ) They did more than there "free diagnostics" cuz they really wanted to find the problem. And in the end they said i should start with the thermostat and take it from there...
So Midas gets 2 thumbs up from me... even though I know several of you in here frown apon places like Midas...
cableguynoe
Well-Known LVC Member
No leaks that I noticed anyway. Although the wife is the daily LS driver. Sometimes I go days without driving it.
Seems like it would be a little hard to get access to... but otherwise,I'm sure changing it out is pretty simple. The hard part was finding the problem, and since it was already there...
Seems like it would be a little hard to get access to... but otherwise,I'm sure changing it out is pretty simple. The hard part was finding the problem, and since it was already there...