My car overheated yesterday after about ten minutes of driving. I think that it's a crack in the resevoir tank because i've seen stains by my tire. I bought some antifreeze yesterday and put in about 70% then drove home on a check engine temp code and a engine power reduced code. The car sat for 12hours and did the same thing today. I put damn put near a whole other gallon of antifreeze in today to get home. What could it be?? Would a crack in the tank make the car overheat that severely??
Car Overheating
- Thread starter remogaggi
- Start date
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
it could - if the system cannot maintain 7psi - your coolant boils at a lower temperature than designed, and therefore at normal operating temps, boils out.
I believe it is something like - for every 1psi your raise the boiling point 3-5 degress.
I believe it is something like - for every 1psi your raise the boiling point 3-5 degress.
Quik LS
Dedicated LVC Member
right - you need hot coolant circulating into the heater core for heat to get into the cabin.
you have to fix your problem, then bleed the system properly for the interior coolant loop to work properly.
you have to fix your problem, then bleed the system properly for the interior coolant loop to work properly.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Um... The cracked reservoir that you mentioned and the air that is now in the cooling system.
i appreciate the response, i just couldn't believe that a small crack could create that much damage. i knew i had a leak about 6 months ago, i would just buy antifreeze every three months. the car has overheated in the past, but antifreeze would cure the problem. now antifreeze won't cure it. i guess i'll replace the coolant tank and get the cooling system bled. anymore advice of what i should check??
WhoBeDaPlaya
Well-Known LVC Member
Had the same thing happen to my '01 V8. Tiny a*s crack in the coolant reserve tank. Only showed up during short drives (drove ~100 miles from the used car lot w/o issues).
A quick trip to the local yard solved that for cheap
A quick trip to the local yard solved that for cheap
That should be it. And you can do this job yourself if you can do an oil change..and change brake pads. It's about a 3 on a scale of 1-10..10 being an engine rebuild. the how to for the bleed process is on this site. FOLLOW THE BLEED DIRECTIONS TO THE LETTER. And dont be shocked if you have to bleed again in a week or so. All it takes is one bubble in the system to cause an overheat issue. Always remember..heat on highest temp and full blast usually will temporarily dislodge an air bubble and get the temp needle back to the mid point
oandtmaster
Well-Known LVC Member
also, don't forget the 50/50 mix....didn't see it mentioned so i thought i would
PetesSweets86
Dedicated LVC Member
could be the coolant thermostat acting up.....did with mine but I got the check engine temperature only on my way to work...then it didn't show up again....even the dealership checked.....
Former Member
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try to bleed it too. i had an airpocket. bout 10 minutes and it would overheat. if its not that...rad cap. if its not that...you might be right about the leak.
+1
Sounds like you already fixed it and it was a cracked tank?
Mine did this and it was just air (although replaced the cap just to be sure). The air prevents flow of the coolant over the radiator which keeps it cool. When it gets airlocked, you boil and it just blows out the cap (like its suppose to do). Mine took 10 minutes too.
There's a fancy tech article how do to this but basically park up a hill with the heat on high and just idle for 30 minutes with the coolant reservoir cap off. Add 50/50 coolant/water as the system draws it in. Keep it full right to the top until it doesnt take anymore then cap it and drive around. You will push some extra out as you drive but thats okay; note the level in the tank after it finishes and rinse it all down with a hose so that you know if it leaks fresh stuff later. The next time your car warms up fully, the level should be the same, and your reservoir should not puke all it's contents after 10 minutes. If not, then you either didnt get all the air, or the system has a leak and is letting air in on cooldown. IF thats the case then you need to go to the dealer and have them pressure test it.
Sounds like you already fixed it and it was a cracked tank?
Mine did this and it was just air (although replaced the cap just to be sure). The air prevents flow of the coolant over the radiator which keeps it cool. When it gets airlocked, you boil and it just blows out the cap (like its suppose to do). Mine took 10 minutes too.
There's a fancy tech article how do to this but basically park up a hill with the heat on high and just idle for 30 minutes with the coolant reservoir cap off. Add 50/50 coolant/water as the system draws it in. Keep it full right to the top until it doesnt take anymore then cap it and drive around. You will push some extra out as you drive but thats okay; note the level in the tank after it finishes and rinse it all down with a hose so that you know if it leaks fresh stuff later. The next time your car warms up fully, the level should be the same, and your reservoir should not puke all it's contents after 10 minutes. If not, then you either didnt get all the air, or the system has a leak and is letting air in on cooldown. IF thats the case then you need to go to the dealer and have them pressure test it.