Caliper & Brake Problems

Lincoln LS

  1. nghtshd88

    nghtshd88 Well-Known LVC Member

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    Just recently had to change a rear lower control arm on the drivers side. A week or so later today Im driving and the transmission keeps acting confused and it feels like a good misfire. Pull over and the car wont move. I hit the gas and the rear drivers caliper is locking up...

    Flip the ebrake on off and drive a little more its okay. Then the same thing repeats itself a mile later. I have rebuilt rear calipers from rock auto about 2yrs old. I guess thats not the best idea as now im out of service? I happen to use the ebrake the night before not sure if its possible the cable can lock up? Or can this be something ABS related?

    Plan to turn the caliper in and see if it happens again if so get a new OEM caliper. My experience with the LS is the rear calipers seems to stick.

    To top it off I have a horrible creaking noise from the master cylinder area when depressing the brake pedal.

    Some claim this is the guide pins not being lubed or the rotors.. i have fairly new OEM rotors and pads. Took it all off and and greased it again no difference.. any ideas?

    Is there something else in the linkage to lube? Or is this what a bad cylinder sounds like? Front caliper and boot is totally fine & was able to compress the piston easily. Maybe grease the piston? Can always swap rotors & pads but doubt that is my issue.

    Trying to see what I can do before going to the shop. Had this creaking once on my mustang but it went away.
     
  2. 04_Sport_LS

    04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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    Since you replaced the LCA... you may want to check the routing of the E-brake cable on that corner. You may have accidentally re-routed it differently during assembly... which may be causing the brake to drag on that corner. Then it heats up and causes your issue.

    Do NOT grease the piston. No grease on brake parts that see extreme heat. It will fubar any friction surface. Only grease the slides inside the booted area where the pins are.
     
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    • 04_Sport_LS

      04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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      And since you replaced the rear drivers LCA... take a close look at the bottom of the coil spring on that same corner.

      You may find the spring has a bent, cracked, or broken spring tail. That's usually what causes the drivers rear LCA to fail.
       
    • nghtshd88

      nghtshd88 Well-Known LVC Member

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      To be honest both rear LCA's went out immediately after someone someone over 200lbs sat in each corner lol. Maybe coincidence but think that finished them off. Bushing definitely looked bad before that. Will check the ebrake cable but doubt that happened. Recently did the rear shocks and springs.
       
    • 04_Sport_LS

      04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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      Did the RA calipers come with the brackets... or did you re-use the OEM brackets?

      One of the guide pins in the bracket may be worn or corroded inside the boot... and sticking. That would cause the brake to drag and heat up.
       
      Last edited: May 3, 2021
    • 04_Sport_LS

      04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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      There are a couple other possibilites too. At this point I'm just trying to eliminate them 1 by 1.
       
    • 04_Sport_LS

      04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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      When you did the drivers rear caliper... did you get the piston screwed in all the way... while compressing it?
       
    • SHORod

      SHORod LVC Member

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      And don't rule out a collapsed brake hose. Brake hoses often fail internally, especially when calipers are allowed to hang by the hoses during a brake service. You won't necessarily see a collapsed hose, but it will act like a one-way valve internally. One way to check for this is to see if you can compress the piston with the bleeder screw closed. If not, then open the bleeder. If the piston now compresses normally, the fluid is not able to freely return to the master cylinder, likely due to a bad brake hose. This is a bit trickier with a rear calipers that use a ratcheting e-brake, but still possible.

      -Rod
       
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      • 04_Sport_LS

        04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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        Yup. That was going to be my next suggestion... but I've been waiting for nghtshd88 to respond.

        Also... many cars with ABS have check valves in the lines. If the caliper piston is compressed too quickly when doing a brake job... the check valve can stick or be damaged.

        Both this and a collapsed brake hose can cause a dragging caliper, and hard brake pedal.

        The check valve issue may be rectified by doing a full ABS pressure bleed. Normal cost for that at a local Ford service center is $100.

        The bonus to the bleed... is that you get all new fluid... and any contaminates flushed out.
         

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