C&L Filter

Got the same one for my mark - works perfectly...
 
on a stock or near stock car the stock air box is heads and shoulders better flowing than a cone filter and adapter.

the stock air box on the mark is a very well engineered peice with alot of work focused on laminar airflow thru the maf.

when you put a cone filter on it then you have air entering the flow path from the side which disrupts and slows down the air flow..

sorry, been there done that...it aint all that.
 
Where is Frogman? He'll make you feel really good buy telling you you're an idiot and need to search.

Yes, the adaptor will work, and be prepared to hear a lot of people giving you there opinion on the matter.

BTW: Thank you for the link as the cheapest one I had found so far was $30+ (hadn't looked TOO hard though)
 
Yeah I've had my cone filter on for about 6 months and it's been just fine.

When i ordered mine they were backordered - didn't get mine for 3 months.
 
14.3@97 w/ c&l and cone filter and heat sheild

14.1@100mph only putting stock air box and paper filter back on the car.

the car was missing .2 for two full seasons, til i finally took the advice Jerry gave me a long time ago.

with a c&l and cone filter a datalog showed erratic flaky maf voltage and no increase in flow over the stock box which had no flaky maf voltage fluctuations..

i see your ill though out ricer mods, and raise you valid data that supports my educated "opinion"

feel free to do things to your engine that skews the data or outright corrputs the data provided to your pcm... NO skin off my back.

only mods on the 14.15 pass were 373's exhaust and tune.
oh yea..350,000 loosening up miles too...lol
 
XLRVIII said:
14.3@97 w/ c&l and cone filter and heat sheild

14.1@100mph only putting stock air box and paper filter back on the car.

the car was missing .2 for two full seasons, til i finally took the advice Jerry gave me a long time ago.

with a c&l and cone filter a datalog showed erratic flaky maf voltage and no increase in flow over the stock box which had no flaky maf voltage fluctuations..

i see your ill though out ricer mods, and raise you valid data that supports my educated "opinion"

feel free to do things to your engine that skews the data or outright corrputs the data provided to your pcm... NO skin off my back.

only mods on the 14.15 pass were 373's exhaust and tune.
oh yea..350,000 loosening up miles too...lol
Click to expand...

I don't dispute your data, or the fact that the stock airbox flows better then a open filter in the compartment. I agree. But it's not always about speed, sometimes aesthetics come into play, thats all I ment by 'opinion'.
 
steven, grab an xcal2 and get some datalogs..

log maf voltage and maf ad counts
if you can peg the stock meter, then and only then should you change anything

you'll find that at WOT@6500 rpms your only using about 80-85% of your maf.
with the stock box you'll see a nice clean maf signal line

with a cone filter and adapter that signal gets all fuzzy looking..

luckily you have an obd2 car, the poor first gen guys dont have an easy datalog solution, so they fall prey to these mods easier than those that can "see it"
 
a decent mod for the stock air box is to.

take the box out, and cut out the front panel that is behind the headlight, that helps get fresh air straight into the front of the box.

dont get me wrong, and adapter and cone are good mods on cars that have crappy intake/air box arrangements.
the mark 8 simply isn't one of those crappy air boxes
 
XLRVIII said:
steven, grab an xcal2 and get some datalogs..

log maf voltage and maf ad counts
if you can peg the stock meter, then and only then should you change anything

you'll find that at WOT@6500 rpms your only using about 80-85% of your maf.
with the stock box you'll see a nice clean maf signal line

with a cone filter and adapter that signal gets all fuzzy looking..

luckily you have an obd2 car, the poor first gen guys dont have an easy datalog solution, so they fall prey to these mods easier than those that can "see it"
Click to expand...

I've never used a dataloger so I wouldn't what I was looking at :p

Is it possible that "fuzzy looking line" could have been caused from dirty MAF? or a pegged MAF from taking in more air?

Buy changing to a conical filter I can only see three things change. Air flow, air temp, and possibly intake turbulence.

Again, I'm not disputing any of your data, but sometimes the way things look under the hood matters to people and it's not ALWAYS about speed.
 
when you peg a maf it means you've "used it up" and need more.

i understand aesthetics, but it shouldn't be put in front of proper engine calibration...seriously.

looks better shouldn't be in the same sentence as a mass air meter.
 
I have a crappy cone filter.

I have an elbow in front of my MAF sensor.

I have seen the MAF curve.

It is not 'fuzzy'. :p
 
when you peg a maf it means you've "used it up" and need more.
Click to expand...

I understand that :N Essentially was asking if that "80-85%" was before or after the cone swap. Sorry for being vague. :cool:

looks better shouldn't be in the same sentence as a mass air meter.
Click to expand...

I thought we were just talking about a filter swap, not changing MAF's? But then again, a filter changes the data log :shifty: :D
 
cant argue that driller..only what mine did.

just think how fast your car could be...tsk tsk
:P
 
jus tink...

if you got back half as much as i did..

you'd make the first 12 second N/A pass
(mischevious grin)
 
XLRVIII said:
jus tink...

if you got back half as much as i did..

you'd make the first 12 second N/A pass
(mischevious grin)
Click to expand...

Imagine that!

Hell, imagine if I got half of what all those mods promised! I'd be at like 500 HP! :D
 
be happy to be the second..

driller should sew up that title as soon as the tracks open back up.

he is only about a car length away
 
im only doing the conical swap because i got it for free so i might as well use it. :) Its a C&L 9inch Conical Filter.
 
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