buying rear LCAs

Lincoln LS

  1. jokken

    jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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    hi guys,

    i think i am going to pull the trigger on buying rear lower control arms next week "rear LCAs"

    Thanks to posts here I know I have the right part numbers:
    RH - XW4Z-5A649-AA
    LH - XW4Z-5A649-ZZ

    The ACDELCO/DORMAN ones are very intriguing for $150 less, but I think I want OEM, no?

    I think I have found the best prices for OEM online currently, but wanted to get you feedback before pulling the trigger.

    I have a 2000 6cyl 5spd Sport

    LH rear LCA
    LH REAR SUSPENSION ARM 2000-2002 LINCOLN LS, 2002 FORD THUNDERBIRD. BRAND NEW! | eBay

    RH rear LCA
    2000-2003 Ford Lower Control Arm XW4Z-5A649-AA | FC OEM Parts

    thanks
     
  2. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    That's the price range I'm seeing for the gen II ones.
     
  3. Robert Crain

    Robert Crain Active LVC Member

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    For whatever it's worth, about a month or so ago, I installed a Mevotech Supreme lower rear control arm on the driver's side and am very happy with it. It fit perfectly and the ride improvement was immediately noticeable. My plan is to install the same on the passenger side in the spring. My LS is just a daily driver so the Mevotech part works for me just fine.
     
  4. joegr

    joegr Dedicated LVC Member

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    That's good to know. The real question is how will it be doing a year from now...
     
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    • Robert Crain

      Robert Crain Active LVC Member

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      Yep, that will have to be seen and I'm hoping for the best and know that I'm rolling the dice a bit here but.... The Mevotech part looked and felt really good. The casting was smooth, robust and looked like a quality made part. Now I of course can't verify the quality of the metal used but there wasn't anything obvious that made me feel uneasy. The bushings all looked stout enough to do the job. The best part though was that it fit perfectly and that is always a good sign. I "splurged" and bought new Ford hardware for it. LOL The car rides great. So far, so good.
       
    • rgorke

      rgorke Well-Known LVC Member

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    • rgorke

      rgorke Well-Known LVC Member

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      Was there a specific problem you had to necessitate the replacement?
       
    • Robert Crain

      Robert Crain Active LVC Member

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      Oh yeah, all three bushings on the original LCA were gone. The Suspension was making all kinds of noise and the quality of ride was extremely harsh. Something had to be done. I have multiple children in college now so money is a bit tight for car parts hence the decision to purchase the Mevotech part. I also replaced the rusted out rear shocks at the same time. They weren’t functioning at all. Did the work myself in the driveway to save a few more dollars. So far, so good.
       
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      • AmsterDutch

        AmsterDutch Dedicated LVC Member

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        You bought them LCA's on Rockauto? Correct? And if so can you post the Link again ...Movetech has two different lines of products I believe...Thanks Robert
         
      • Robert Crain

        Robert Crain Active LVC Member

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        I purchased the LCA at www.rockauto.com. In the search box type: mevotech cms401155 and you’ll see the part I bought. My LS is a 2003 with the V8 engine. Summit Racing had the best pricing for the KYB shocks.
         
      • 04_Sport_LS

        04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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        That's always the first one to go bad. Keep us posted on the parts longevity.

        Did you take a good close look at the bottom spring tail on that corner, (on the shock)? They have a tendancy of bending or breaking... which seems to be the reason that corner goes bad.

        Might just be a "high speed hard right" onramp/offramp thing... or a "rust belt" issue.
         
      • 04_Sport_LS

        04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        thanks for the replies guys. I can't use the Gen-IIs rear LCAs on my Gen-I right?
         
      • 04_Sport_LS

        04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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        That's debatable. Rigs and I had a discussion about this. Ill try to dig up the thread uf I can find it.

        Rigs had rear LCA's from both GEN's... and rough measurements seemed to show that GEN 2 LCA's would work.

        The only appearant difference was the "SC" markings on the GEN 2 arms... and that marking supposedly indicated that the arms were acceptible for SuperCharged vehicles... such as certain Jaguar S-Type's.
         
      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        ah right, I remember that thread.
        this is it:
        Rear lower control arm bushing replacement (pics)

        I might take the chance if I can return them.
        honestly even if it is out a bit, can't it be fixed with alignment?
        Also, even if it is out it has to be better than what I have now with 170k
         
      • jmeecer

        jmeecer Active LVC Member

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        I replaced my two lower rear control arms last year with the AC Delco versions. So far so good, got them off rockauto. Quality looked very good, I could tell that they had been setting in the boxes awhile, lost of dust. So, I think I got lucky and got older versions rather then the newer China made ones.
         
      • 04_Sport_LS

        04_Sport_LS Dedicated LVC Member

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        Sorry to break it to you... but with AC/Delco becoming an aftermarket parts supplier for non GM vehicles... the majority of their parts are outsourced.
         
      • jmeecer

        jmeecer Active LVC Member

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        Yes, I realize that but some of there older parts were better quality similar to Raybestos and Moog. Most all of these companies get there parts from the same sources overseas now. Some older AC Delco, Moog, and Raybestos parts used to be made in Canada.

        I also forgot to mentions, the rear lower arms I purchased have a lifetime warranty from AC Delco. So, if they wear out, I get another set to put on, not that big of a deal, cost shipping and new nyloc nuts.
         
      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        i'll get and try the Gen-II ones on my Gen-I
        I see there are other part numbers for the Gen-II too
        Gen-II #s
        RH - 3W4Z-5A649-AA
        LH - 3W4Z-5A649-ZZ
        or
        RH - 6W4Z-5A649-A
        LH - 6W4Z-5A649-B

        while the Gen-I #s are
        RH - XW4Z-5A649-AA
        LH - XW4Z-5A649-ZZ

        if I report back in a few weeks that all is well, then those Gen-II part #s can be for Gen-I too.
         
        Last edited: Dec 13, 2019
      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        and I'll thank Rigs for doing all those pics/work to compare them and give me the confidence to try. and for saving me about $120!
         
      • Broseph

        Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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        Im gonna ask, why are they being replaced, didn’t see the reason in previous posts. I assume because the bushings are shot.

        If so, why not replace the bushings like myself and others have. I did the Powerflex black bushings last December and so far it’s still holding up. I want to say it was <$300, but you have to have tools and a press.

        It’s definitely a bit more effort so the time/money aspect is moot, but done right it’s an option you won’t have to worry about a year or two or three later.
         
      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        i got the new Gen-II UCAs the mail last night. i can't see any difference really. i have some time in the next 2 weeks hopefully i can install them. Actually i'll be doing the driver side first (it is apart already) then i'll see about starting the passenger side.

        Broseph: the old bushings are worn, actually not too bad considering 170k (all me), and I was not a soft driver. but I am doing coil-over-shocks and sway bar links and want to do the upper/lower control arms and etc as well.
        i ended up with a refreshed front suspension after i snapped a ball joint stud (2.5 yrs ago now). so I am sloowwwwwly going about the task of refreshing the rear suspension too. I was considering pressing in new bushings, like you suggest, since i like to keep parts the car came with if I can, and since I know a shop that would press them in for me for free. But I read on here someone did that and thought they creaked a bit. And based on the cost/effort i decided to spend a little more and save some time. (you see, the shop that will do it for me is in my old town, not to close by anymore. And i end up standing around BSing half a day waiting for them to get a break to give me some free service...lol. they pressed the moog ball joints into the old spindles saving me about $1000 on new OEM ones. it cost me most of a saturday though hanging at their shop waiting. but I also got to keep my original spindles so...)
         
        Last edited: Dec 20, 2019
      • Broseph

        Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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        Yeah, the time/cost ratio makes it harder to justify the effort of getting bushings installed. Luckily I enjoy the learning experience and challenge and had my buddies 10-ton harbor freight special to do the job.

        It took several hours and a bit of a mess (not to mention the smell from burning rubber bushings out) but I’m very happy with the result. The creak issue from powerflex was the use of their copper based lubricant. They said they no longer offer that and just use the silicone based lubricant. I did it last December and have no cream issue and do noticed some improvement in cornering but now I can tell my shocks and struts are worn. Amazing how fixing one thing shows what condition the related parts are really in.

        I think you’ll be very pleased with how things tighten up once you have all those parts replaced. Enjoy
         
      • Broseph

        Broseph Well-Known LVC Member

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        Yeah, the time/cost ratio makes it harder to justify the effort of getting bushings installed. Luckily I enjoy the learning experience and challenge and had my buddies 10-ton harbor freight special to do the job.

        It took several hours and a bit of a mess (not to mention the smell from burning rubber bushings out) but I’m very happy with the result. The creak issue from powerflex was the use of their copper based lubricant. They said they no longer offer that and just use the silicone based lubricant. I did it last December and have no cream issue and do noticed some improvement in cornering but now I can tell my shocks and struts are worn. Amazing how fixing one thing shows what condition the related parts are really in.

        I think you’ll be very pleased with how things tighten up once you have all those parts replaced. Are you doing the Jaguar Bilstein/OEM spring setup or something else?
         
      • jokken

        jokken Well-Known LVC Member

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        thanks Broseph. good to know the creak can be avoided by not using the copper based lubricant. i guess powerflex poly is the way to go if one was to go the replacement bushing route? are there decent non-poly options (any other brands)?

        yes I am doing Jag Bilstein B4s/OEM spring setup. I have them installed on the front already and have them ready to put in the rear once i get the lowers control arms and etc bolted on.... this weekend maybe! =)
         

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