So my 98 front suspension hasn't been touched since it left the factory. I know I need new balljoints but while i'm doing that is there anything else I can replace on the cheap which will help. Not looking to do a complete to factory rebuild but a budget rebuild. Any advice on parts etc?
Budget front end suspension rebuild
- Thread starter 98LSC32V
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NoLimit95
Dedicated LVC Member
Moog, TRW
thaywood
Dedicated LVC Member
With these cars, there's no such thing as "cheap" or "budget". You either get the good stuff and spend a little more and do it right or you end up replacing the cheap crap later and spending more than you would have spent on the good stuff to start with. I know this from experience. After rebuilding my front suspension with cheap chinese crap off fleabay, I've replaced one UCA and I have two new Moog LCA's ready to install because the cheap china junk didn't have any grease in the ball joint boots
Like NoLimit said, just replace everything with TRW and/or Moog and be done with it.
Like NoLimit said, just replace everything with TRW and/or Moog and be done with it.AndyT
Dedicated LVC Member
+1 to the above posts.
I too re-built the front end suspension on my car after I bought it. Specifically, two front hubs that I got for very very cheap. Both have minor play in them again about 11 months later, along with the loud hum noise. It may cost you a few extra bucks up front, but it'll be worth it, as you won't have to spend more money ~12 months later to do it all over again.
I too re-built the front end suspension on my car after I bought it. Specifically, two front hubs that I got for very very cheap. Both have minor play in them again about 11 months later, along with the loud hum noise. It may cost you a few extra bucks up front, but it'll be worth it, as you won't have to spend more money ~12 months later to do it all over again.
Sapperfire
Dedicated LVC Member
+1
You can save a few bucks by getting T-bird UCAs if you no longer have air ride, but that's about it. You can change just the lower ball joints as opposed to the whole arm if your bushings are still ok, but if they're the stock ones-i highly doubt it
Cheap components don't last long, so think about the cost of labor to replace everything -twice ...or you doing it yourself-twice
You can save a few bucks by getting T-bird UCAs if you no longer have air ride, but that's about it. You can change just the lower ball joints as opposed to the whole arm if your bushings are still ok, but if they're the stock ones-i highly doubt it
Cheap components don't last long, so think about the cost of labor to replace everything -twice ...or you doing it yourself-twice
DLF
Dedicated LVC Member
If you're looking for cheap, but serviceable, I've got a pair of 60K mile OEM LCA's that have 4K mile OEM ball joints in them, if you're interested. $50 shipped for the pair.
Sapperfire
Dedicated LVC Member
Can't beat that unless you ACTUALLY steal them
beerdog
Well-Known LVC Member
Arnott makes good UCA's. Make sure ot get the UCA's that articulate. the Moog's do not. You specifically want TRW parts that say TRW on them. Their UCA's articulate while the Moog's do not. Also, TRW's LCA's have the better sealed ball joints. I would say just buy the Ford parts but you mention the word "budget".
Sapperfire
Dedicated LVC Member
He's driving the wrong car for that word
Honda civic...without NX maybe?
Honda civic...without NX maybe?