Ok, I did look for an existing thread, but didn't find one. I didn't want to start a new thread for this, but I guess I have to. I'm replacing my brakes and rotors on my 04 LS V8 and just wanted to know if their is anything I need to watch out for? Anything that would make this different then any other car? I'm actually not doing it, but just need to know if I have to pass info along to the guy doing it. Thanks.
Brake Job
- Thread starter JaysLS
- Start date
Gus_Mahn
Well-Known LVC Member
Carefully check the boots on the caliper slide pins. Use only silicone grease as petroleum based grease may ruin the boots. One of the best mechanics I knew, used pinch off pliers on the hose and opened the bleeder before compressing the piston. This keeps the dirty brake fluid from being pushed backwards through the ABS pump. The rear pads I've bought seemed to be made for use without the stainless slides. I left the slides on and ground the ends of the pad backing plates to fit.
In case you're looking for parts, you can pickup the rotors + pads for all 4 corners for just $220 shipped from RotorPros :
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?97004-New-Member-RotorPros-Package
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?97004-New-Member-RotorPros-Package
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
The proper tool both rotates and pushes/compresses the piston. The cube-style tool just rotates it and relies on you compressing it. It works relatively fine. I had to modify mine from Autozone though because the pins were too close together to fit into the LS' piston. I hit the pins with a Dremel grinder bit to turn the flat-face pegs into baloney-cut cylinders to press against the sloped edges they line up with.
If you have the tool, the pistons and a Dremel in front of you, you'll see what I mean when you try to put the tool in the slots. I don't currently have a picture, though I swear I remember taking one...
If you have the tool, the pistons and a Dremel in front of you, you'll see what I mean when you try to put the tool in the slots. I don't currently have a picture, though I swear I remember taking one...
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
not trying to be a dick, but if you need to pass ANY information to the guy doing the work, then you're having the wrong guy work on your car...
you would probably be better served watching a couple of you tube videos and just doing the work yourself...
Trust me, I don't think you're being a dick at all. I just don't trust people working on my beloved LS, and unfortunately, I just can't do it. I can build and fix computers, the right way, but when it comes to cars I just suck. So, I was just trying to get all the info I can, and then ask potential mechanics questions to see if they have the right answers. I get those answers from all of you! I know you guys here have done this and everything else to the LS and know how to do it the right way.
F*ck this, I just called Mike Naughton FORD and was told they will put MY OWN pads and rotors on all four wheels for only $90!!!!! Are you freaking kidding me. I have been wasting my time trying to find someone to get this done when the FORD dealer will do it so cheap! Now, they also told me it will be another $129 for a brake fluid exchange, but that's ok. So, sorry to waste all of your guy's time, but I do really appreciate all of your input. It really helps!!!
Thanks for your reply. This info will help me going forward, especially when testing people to see if they really know what they are talking about.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
that right there might be one of the smartest things I've heard from people in a while. when people ask me how to tell which install shops are the good ones, I always say, you really need to talk to people to find out which ones really know what is going on there, well that and of course see what other people have to say and see what they have done...
Autozone rents out the caliper piston compressor for ~$80 (can't remember the exact price). They give you the money back once you return it. Also, I'd open the brake fluid reservoir, otherwise when you're compressing the pistons, fluid will find its way out even if it's screwed on, plus you'll be putting a whole lot more effort trying to compress it with the cap on.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I always attach a hose to the bleeder and open it slightly before pushing/screwing the pistons in. I don't like the idea of forcing a lot of possibly dirty fluid back into the master cylinder where it might damage the seals. Every now and then you hear about someone that had there master cylinder fail days after a brake job. I could be wrong, and this might not ever be the cause, however it's an easy thing to do with no downside. (Okay, you could say the use of extra brake fluid is a down side, but I like to try and replace most of the fluid on each brake job anyway.)
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
yes, a while ago I made a little fluid catch by getting two feet of clear tubing that fit tightly on the bleeder valve, then drilled a small hole in the lid of a clear water bottle and stuck the other end of the tub in with a zip tie inside the bottle to make sure the hose didn't come out.
then i do exactly what Joe described using the tube and bottle to catch all the fluid and keep from making a mess. as an added bonus, since some of the hose goes up hill for a few inches, it keeps about two inches of the most recent fluid in sight, and you can really tell when the fluid is getting dirty, so about every other time I do the brakes, I also use this as chance to flush out all the old fluid. the two inches of fluid in the tube make it super easy to see when the dirty fluid is out, and fresh clear fluid starts to come out.
while not my picture, almost exactly this
I learned the hard way to add the cap after the first time I used this, and knocked over the bottle!
then i do exactly what Joe described using the tube and bottle to catch all the fluid and keep from making a mess. as an added bonus, since some of the hose goes up hill for a few inches, it keeps about two inches of the most recent fluid in sight, and you can really tell when the fluid is getting dirty, so about every other time I do the brakes, I also use this as chance to flush out all the old fluid. the two inches of fluid in the tube make it super easy to see when the dirty fluid is out, and fresh clear fluid starts to come out.
while not my picture, almost exactly this
I learned the hard way to add the cap after the first time I used this, and knocked over the bottle!
TooManyToys
Well-Known LVC Member
The reason for the m/c failure is they are now pushing the piston seals into the areas of the bore where they normally don't go, where corrosion has formed due to the absorbed water in the brake fluid, and the seal edge gets damaged. The best solution is to change the brake fluid every 2 to 3 years to keep the brake fluid moisture level low. If that haven't been done then make sure the person who is pressing down on the brake pedal doesn't go more then the normal amount of travel, or use a pressurized tank to deliver brake fluid into the reservoir while bleeding.