New bulb checked the wiring and fuses driver side front sometimes only the park work 11.8v and when I put the blinker it shuts it off completely and park doesnt work for a bit. Due for inspection my plate stickers are done been two months and my liscense is expirerd lmao dont wana get pulled over for a park light thanks
Blinker intermittently working code b1499
- Thread starter JustALs
- Start date
SHORod
LVC Member
How does that 11.8V at the bulb compare with if you measure at the battery directly? What year is your LS?
With the voltage dropping to nothing with the turn signal activated, that sounds to me like a bad connection, either loose or corroded, in the supply to the turn signal. The high input impedance of your DC multimeter doesn't load the circuit enough to necessarily pick up the bad connection, but when the turn signal is activated, the ground path through the bulb draws too much current and the voltage drops due to the weak/corroded connection.
At least that's how I interpret your message. There seem to be a lot of thoughts all crammed into the first sentence.
-Rod
With the voltage dropping to nothing with the turn signal activated, that sounds to me like a bad connection, either loose or corroded, in the supply to the turn signal. The high input impedance of your DC multimeter doesn't load the circuit enough to necessarily pick up the bad connection, but when the turn signal is activated, the ground path through the bulb draws too much current and the voltage drops due to the weak/corroded connection.
At least that's how I interpret your message. There seem to be a lot of thoughts all crammed into the first sentence.
-Rod
milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
Classic sign of a bad socket or return path. The fact that the parking lamp goes out when you turn on the directional means that the parking lamp is using the directional lamp filament to complete the current flow path. I think I know that these cars are reverse of standard logic where the hot is always there but the circuit activates when grounded, so conventional thinking may not apply, sort of like iPhone selfies that you need a mirror to look at the image through to see it correctly. 
This hypothesis only applies if the bulb in question is a dual filament bulb. If it is a dual filament bulb, I would keep troubleshooting by probing each of the wires to the bulb well before the bulb socket using an invasive means to get to the conductors that can be well sealed following the troubleshooting exercise.
This hypothesis only applies if the bulb in question is a dual filament bulb. If it is a dual filament bulb, I would keep troubleshooting by probing each of the wires to the bulb well before the bulb socket using an invasive means to get to the conductors that can be well sealed following the troubleshooting exercise.SHORod
LVC Member
I think in this case, since it sounds like the voltage reading is present until the signal is activated, the issue would be in the supply side. The good ground path through the FEM would then explain why the voltage would drop to zero when the signal (ie: ground path) is activated. If the ground were bad, the voltage reading would remain, assuming the meter's negative probe is connected to a known ground versus being across the bulb socket. I think that's a good assumption since the poster sees voltage when the signal is not activated.
But you bring up a good point about the parking light working sometimes. The parking lamp filament also uses a switched ground through the FEM and the source is the same for both filaments.... Maybe the supply side is only able to pass enough current to support the lower current parking lamp filament, and when the turn signal is activated the corrosion or poor connection can no longer supply sufficient current, causing both filaments to go out. Pulling the fuse and measuring the current through the circuit could help confirm that theory.
-Rod
But you bring up a good point about the parking light working sometimes. The parking lamp filament also uses a switched ground through the FEM and the source is the same for both filaments.... Maybe the supply side is only able to pass enough current to support the lower current parking lamp filament, and when the turn signal is activated the corrosion or poor connection can no longer supply sufficient current, causing both filaments to go out. Pulling the fuse and measuring the current through the circuit could help confirm that theory.
-Rod
hey guys thanks alot for the reply i appretiate it..
its a ls 2000v8
I get the same voltage on my high beam wire and battery is a new agm 750.
I put a new socket and bulb. there is voltage when the bulb is not in the socket. I use the orange wire on one of the three for the ground
the park light lit up some times but dimmed completely with the blinker activated till all went dim/off then had to do on offf on the ignition switch and on off the park and did same thing then died.. but now nothing works, but still got voltage.
the switch inside the car that you turn that lights up just the parks , i got voltage when its on .
I put my key on and put the blinker on and there is still voltage on the two lives but when I connect the bulb theres nothing on both.
my grammar and spelling is pretty bad so a bit hard to explain but yeah..
I might try to pull the fuse and check voltage there and migh as welll try disconnecting the battery for a few hours too & I checked the whole wiring in front
many thanks
its a ls 2000v8
I get the same voltage on my high beam wire and battery is a new agm 750.
I put a new socket and bulb. there is voltage when the bulb is not in the socket. I use the orange wire on one of the three for the ground
the park light lit up some times but dimmed completely with the blinker activated till all went dim/off then had to do on offf on the ignition switch and on off the park and did same thing then died.. but now nothing works, but still got voltage.
the switch inside the car that you turn that lights up just the parks , i got voltage when its on .
I put my key on and put the blinker on and there is still voltage on the two lives but when I connect the bulb theres nothing on both.
my grammar and spelling is pretty bad so a bit hard to explain but yeah..
I might try to pull the fuse and check voltage there and migh as welll try disconnecting the battery for a few hours too & I checked the whole wiring in front
many thanks
SHORod
LVC Member
On your car at the socket for the parking light/turn signal there is one power line and two grounds. The Orange/Blue tracer wire is actually the power wire, NOT ground. It's unclear from the wiring diagram which ground is for the turn signals and which is for the parking lights, but when working properly one of the Black wires will be at ground potential when the parking lights are on and the other will have ground at the flash rate for the turn signal. One of the switched ground wires is Black/Blue tracer and the other is Black/White tracer.
Do you happen to have a test light with an incandescent (ie: not LED) test light? If so, that might work better for some of these next suggested checks. Start by using a known good ground, such as a a bolt on the engine block, a strut mount bolt, or the bolt for an engine ground strap. I don't recall if there's a recommended remote jump start ground under the hood or not, but if there is, that would be an excellent source for ground as well. Then use the meter or test light to check for battery voltage at the Orange/Blue tracer wire. If you use a test light and it doesn't light, or it's dim, then try the same measurement with your multimeter. If your multimeter again reads something like 11.8 VDC, then this confirms you have a high resistance in the power supply line to the bulb. Try the same measurements, but at Fuse F208 (F208) in the Central Junction Box (CJB). If the test light is bright here, you need to trace that Orange/Blue wire from the bulb to fuse F208. Study any connectors, splices, and the wire insulation for signs of corrosion.
If your test light is also dim or fails to light at F208, then you have an issue with the voltage supply to the fuse socket or the fuse itself. Since you're not complaining about other front lights, it's unlikely the issue would be between the battery and the CJB so you could focus on the fuse, the connections for the fuse possibly being corroded and/or not making a good connection with the fuse, or the CJB itself.
If the test light is nice and bright on the Orange/Blue wire at the bulb socket, then switch the test light clip lead to a source of good battery power. Here again, a remote jump starting Red post under the hood would be convenient. Touch the test light probe to a good ground to confirm you have a good power source to the test light. Now probe the bulb socket black wires. One should light the test light when the parking lights are switched on, and one should light the test light when the right turn signal is supposed to flash. If the test light does not light bright in either of these scenarios, the issue is with the ground paths to the Front Electronics Module (FEM). Again, you'll need to trace the wires, concentrating on any connections, splices, and the wire insulation. Or you could go straight to the FEM and use the test light to back probe the connector to determine if the FEM is providing a nice, strong switched ground for both circuits. The wires colors do change between the bulb socket and the connectors on the FEM. The bulb socket Black/Blue wire is a Black/Red wire in connector C201c terminal location 10, and the Black/White wire at the bulb socket becomes Black/Yellow wire at connector C201a terminal location 4. This makes harness connector C133 between the bulb socket and the FEM a likely suspect if you find yourself going down the path of a bad switched ground.
-Rod
Do you happen to have a test light with an incandescent (ie: not LED) test light? If so, that might work better for some of these next suggested checks. Start by using a known good ground, such as a a bolt on the engine block, a strut mount bolt, or the bolt for an engine ground strap. I don't recall if there's a recommended remote jump start ground under the hood or not, but if there is, that would be an excellent source for ground as well. Then use the meter or test light to check for battery voltage at the Orange/Blue tracer wire. If you use a test light and it doesn't light, or it's dim, then try the same measurement with your multimeter. If your multimeter again reads something like 11.8 VDC, then this confirms you have a high resistance in the power supply line to the bulb. Try the same measurements, but at Fuse F208 (F208) in the Central Junction Box (CJB). If the test light is bright here, you need to trace that Orange/Blue wire from the bulb to fuse F208. Study any connectors, splices, and the wire insulation for signs of corrosion.
If your test light is also dim or fails to light at F208, then you have an issue with the voltage supply to the fuse socket or the fuse itself. Since you're not complaining about other front lights, it's unlikely the issue would be between the battery and the CJB so you could focus on the fuse, the connections for the fuse possibly being corroded and/or not making a good connection with the fuse, or the CJB itself.
If the test light is nice and bright on the Orange/Blue wire at the bulb socket, then switch the test light clip lead to a source of good battery power. Here again, a remote jump starting Red post under the hood would be convenient. Touch the test light probe to a good ground to confirm you have a good power source to the test light. Now probe the bulb socket black wires. One should light the test light when the parking lights are switched on, and one should light the test light when the right turn signal is supposed to flash. If the test light does not light bright in either of these scenarios, the issue is with the ground paths to the Front Electronics Module (FEM). Again, you'll need to trace the wires, concentrating on any connections, splices, and the wire insulation. Or you could go straight to the FEM and use the test light to back probe the connector to determine if the FEM is providing a nice, strong switched ground for both circuits. The wires colors do change between the bulb socket and the connectors on the FEM. The bulb socket Black/Blue wire is a Black/Red wire in connector C201c terminal location 10, and the Black/White wire at the bulb socket becomes Black/Yellow wire at connector C201a terminal location 4. This makes harness connector C133 between the bulb socket and the FEM a likely suspect if you find yourself going down the path of a bad switched ground.
-Rod
ok so just found the problem now .. I thought it was a ground issue and the fem supplying ground on demand etc so i thought it was a bad fem... anyways I messed around with the 3 connectors and wires, spliced it down all the way in the under the wheel shroud in the quarter panel and found no breaks ,,, maybe there is one but haven't seen any..
I found out I had no power, yeah no power can be from no ground or positive. but in my case there was no positive power at the positive coming from the 3 wires .. I took 12v positive from the other side park, ran it to the positive on the bulb connector and all works now is this still a bad fem or an obviously broken wire since its still running on the same connections
I found out I had no power, yeah no power can be from no ground or positive. but in my case there was no positive power at the positive coming from the 3 wires .. I took 12v positive from the other side park, ran it to the positive on the bulb connector and all works now is this still a bad fem or an obviously broken wire since its still running on the same connections
SHORod
LVC Member
As mentioned above, if the circuit is not getting power, but is getting ground, the problem will not be the FEM. The FEM only controls the ground for the lights. Reading back over your first post, I see you mention that you checked the fuses and that the issue is on the driver's (left) side. In post #6 above I said to check fuse F208, but that's for the right side. The feed for the front driver's (left) side is via fuse F210. I know you said you checked the fuses, but it would be in your best interest to confirm you are getting power to and through fuse F210. It should be hot at all times.
-Rod
-Rod
Fuse 210 0.04-0.08v and even without fuse same thing.. on the passenger side I get same low voltage but when the switch is on it jumps to normal but the driver side never did. I was to wire it to the back but I hate micky mousing a car lol
SHORod
LVC Member
Is that voltage what you read on both legs of the fuse? What if you remove the fuse and check the voltage at the fuse box terminal? Also, you might want to check for continuity from fuse F210 to the wire you cut in the harness. It will probably require an extension chunk of wire, but if you have continuity from the fuse to the harness where you cut the wire, you can be quite certain that the issue is between the battery and the fuse terminals assuming you determine you don't have battery voltage to the fuse terminals. At least you're able to quickly narrow down where to start checking for issues now.
Fuses F208 and F210 are only 5A fuses so I'm not sure how well F208 will be able to feed both sides of the car. I suppose you could turn on the parking lights and the 4-way flashers/hazard lights to see if the fuse blows after a minute or two powering all those filaments.
-Rod
Fuses F208 and F210 are only 5A fuses so I'm not sure how well F208 will be able to feed both sides of the car. I suppose you could turn on the parking lights and the 4-way flashers/hazard lights to see if the fuse blows after a minute or two powering all those filaments.
-Rod
Yes I removed the fuse and got the same reading. I did not test from the fuse/fusebox at 210 to the cut wire yet, that's a great idea that never came to my mind.
So your telling me if the wire is not broken from the fuse box to the front, the problem is from the fuse box connection going to the back all the way to the trunk fuse box
? would that wire hit ssp1 relay?
So your telling me if the wire is not broken from the fuse box to the front, the problem is from the fuse box connection going to the back all the way to the trunk fuse box
? would that wire hit ssp1 relay?
SHORod
LVC Member
Yep, if you measure continuity all the way from fuse F210 to where you cut the wire, the issue is going to be between the supply side terminal of F210 and the battery. I'll need to dig into the factory service manual to determine what's between the battery and F210. I'm not sure I'll get to that yet this evening.
-Rod
-Rod
SHORod
LVC Member
Yep, the SSP1 relay is part of the circuit and it appears that the SSP1 relay would affect multiple other circuits as well.
-Rod
-Rod