Blinker intermittently working code b1499

JustALs

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New bulb checked the wiring and fuses driver side front sometimes only the park work 11.8v and when I put the blinker it shuts it off completely and park doesnt work for a bit. Due for inspection my plate stickers are done been two months and my liscense is expirerd lmao dont wana get pulled over for a park light thanks
 

SHORod

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How does that 11.8V at the bulb compare with if you measure at the battery directly? What year is your LS?

With the voltage dropping to nothing with the turn signal activated, that sounds to me like a bad connection, either loose or corroded, in the supply to the turn signal. The high input impedance of your DC multimeter doesn't load the circuit enough to necessarily pick up the bad connection, but when the turn signal is activated, the ground path through the bulb draws too much current and the voltage drops due to the weak/corroded connection.

At least that's how I interpret your message. There seem to be a lot of thoughts all crammed into the first sentence.

-Rod
 

milehighmikey

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Classic sign of a bad socket or return path. The fact that the parking lamp goes out when you turn on the directional means that the parking lamp is using the directional lamp filament to complete the current flow path. I think I know that these cars are reverse of standard logic where the hot is always there but the circuit activates when grounded, so conventional thinking may not apply, sort of like iPhone selfies that you need a mirror to look at the image through to see it correctly. :) This hypothesis only applies if the bulb in question is a dual filament bulb. If it is a dual filament bulb, I would keep troubleshooting by probing each of the wires to the bulb well before the bulb socket using an invasive means to get to the conductors that can be well sealed following the troubleshooting exercise.
 

SHORod

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I think in this case, since it sounds like the voltage reading is present until the signal is activated, the issue would be in the supply side. The good ground path through the FEM would then explain why the voltage would drop to zero when the signal (ie: ground path) is activated. If the ground were bad, the voltage reading would remain, assuming the meter's negative probe is connected to a known ground versus being across the bulb socket. I think that's a good assumption since the poster sees voltage when the signal is not activated.

But you bring up a good point about the parking light working sometimes. The parking lamp filament also uses a switched ground through the FEM and the source is the same for both filaments.... Maybe the supply side is only able to pass enough current to support the lower current parking lamp filament, and when the turn signal is activated the corrosion or poor connection can no longer supply sufficient current, causing both filaments to go out. Pulling the fuse and measuring the current through the circuit could help confirm that theory.

-Rod
 

JustALs

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hey guys thanks alot for the reply i appretiate it..
its a ls 2000v8

I get the same voltage on my high beam wire and battery is a new agm 750.
I put a new socket and bulb. there is voltage when the bulb is not in the socket. I use the orange wire on one of the three for the ground

the park light lit up some times but dimmed completely with the blinker activated till all went dim/off then had to do on offf on the ignition switch and on off the park and did same thing then died.. but now nothing works, but still got voltage.

the switch inside the car that you turn that lights up just the parks , i got voltage when its on .
I put my key on and put the blinker on and there is still voltage on the two lives but when I connect the bulb theres nothing on both.

my grammar and spelling is pretty bad so a bit hard to explain but yeah..

I might try to pull the fuse and check voltage there and migh as welll try disconnecting the battery for a few hours too & I checked the whole wiring in front

many thanks
 

SHORod

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On your car at the socket for the parking light/turn signal there is one power line and two grounds. The Orange/Blue tracer wire is actually the power wire, NOT ground. It's unclear from the wiring diagram which ground is for the turn signals and which is for the parking lights, but when working properly one of the Black wires will be at ground potential when the parking lights are on and the other will have ground at the flash rate for the turn signal. One of the switched ground wires is Black/Blue tracer and the other is Black/White tracer.

Do you happen to have a test light with an incandescent (ie: not LED) test light? If so, that might work better for some of these next suggested checks. Start by using a known good ground, such as a a bolt on the engine block, a strut mount bolt, or the bolt for an engine ground strap. I don't recall if there's a recommended remote jump start ground under the hood or not, but if there is, that would be an excellent source for ground as well. Then use the meter or test light to check for battery voltage at the Orange/Blue tracer wire. If you use a test light and it doesn't light, or it's dim, then try the same measurement with your multimeter. If your multimeter again reads something like 11.8 VDC, then this confirms you have a high resistance in the power supply line to the bulb. Try the same measurements, but at Fuse F208 (F208) in the Central Junction Box (CJB). If the test light is bright here, you need to trace that Orange/Blue wire from the bulb to fuse F208. Study any connectors, splices, and the wire insulation for signs of corrosion.

If your test light is also dim or fails to light at F208, then you have an issue with the voltage supply to the fuse socket or the fuse itself. Since you're not complaining about other front lights, it's unlikely the issue would be between the battery and the CJB so you could focus on the fuse, the connections for the fuse possibly being corroded and/or not making a good connection with the fuse, or the CJB itself.

If the test light is nice and bright on the Orange/Blue wire at the bulb socket, then switch the test light clip lead to a source of good battery power. Here again, a remote jump starting Red post under the hood would be convenient. Touch the test light probe to a good ground to confirm you have a good power source to the test light. Now probe the bulb socket black wires. One should light the test light when the parking lights are switched on, and one should light the test light when the right turn signal is supposed to flash. If the test light does not light bright in either of these scenarios, the issue is with the ground paths to the Front Electronics Module (FEM). Again, you'll need to trace the wires, concentrating on any connections, splices, and the wire insulation. Or you could go straight to the FEM and use the test light to back probe the connector to determine if the FEM is providing a nice, strong switched ground for both circuits. The wires colors do change between the bulb socket and the connectors on the FEM. The bulb socket Black/Blue wire is a Black/Red wire in connector C201c terminal location 10, and the Black/White wire at the bulb socket becomes Black/Yellow wire at connector C201a terminal location 4. This makes harness connector C133 between the bulb socket and the FEM a likely suspect if you find yourself going down the path of a bad switched ground.

-Rod
 

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