Bizzarre Electrical Problem...really!!

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ls'd

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My 2002 LS V8 was starting and running fine until I had to replace the driver’s side window regulator and motor.

Here’s the timeline and what I know.

Tuesday – hit a road bump and my window fell into the door so that just a triangle was sticking up. (cold ride home from there) Got home took door apart to see what was going on and saw the broken remnants of the brittle white guide clips that were not built for cold Ohio winters. I left everything disassembled and unplugged until I could get a replacement regulator.

Wednesday – bought and installed Dorman 471876 regulator/motor from local parts store. Turned key and window went ¾ up and then stopped as did everything else electrical. Turned key to start and just got clicks.

Thursday – bought and installed Motorcraft battery from local L-M dealer (with the ext vent fitting). Strange things began to occur, flashers, steering wheel moving, CD player (Alpine) loading motor making noises. Put key in ignition, and the engine turns very sloooowly, in fact, I cannot tell if it is even turning at all.

What I know:
New battery is dated 1/2011, and terminal posts have been wire brushed and screws are tight.

Old battery was 5+ years old

PATS light is solid when cranking engine.

Voltage on digital “meter” plugged into the 12V console socket reads 12.4V at rest and 10V+ when cranking.

Driver door controller and all electrical connections between door and chassis were left unplugged for 24+hours.

Car runs great with 67K miles…it’s a creampuff!

Has clockspring issue since November (radio controls, 3-2 airbag light), and I was waiting for warm weather on that one.

If I left any key info out please let me know. Any help on this is greatly appreciated, as I have been LSless for two days.
 
It could be a bad new battery, and/or I should check the tightness of the battery posts' clamps?
 
Not bizarre at all.
12.4 (as was pointed out) resting is a very discharged battery. Batteries do go down while waiting on the shelf, it not unheard of to come across one now and then.
 
Pulled the battery off the charger this morning, and it read 13.3V across the terminals. Hooked it up and the voltage read 12.68V in the meter plugged into the 12V socket. When I opened the door the voltage dropped to 12.50, and the usual strange things happened, steering wheel, flashers, CD player, etc. Turned the key and engine turned very very slowly if at all. Disconnected the battery and the voltage reads 12.69V across the terminals.
My old battery dies (5+ years, yeah, I get that one), and my new battery does not work well enough to start the car. The common denominators are, that I changed a window regulator, and my recent bad luck with car batteries. Should I take the new battery back to the dealer and have it checked out/replaced?
 
ls'd said:
Pulled the battery off the charger this morning, and it read 13.3V across the terminals. Hooked it up and the voltage read 12.68V in the meter plugged into the 12V socket. When I opened the door the voltage dropped to 12.50, and the usual strange things happened, steering wheel, flashers, CD player, etc. Turned the key and engine turned very very slowly if at all. Disconnected the battery and the voltage reads 12.69V across the terminals.
My old battery dies (5+ years, yeah, I get that one), and my new battery does not work well enough to start the car. The common denominators are, that I changed a window regulator, and my recent bad luck with car batteries. Should I take the new battery back to the dealer and have it checked out/replaced?
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If you measure the voltage at the battery terminals and get the same results, you have a defective battery. It's internal resistance is too high. Take it back and get it exchanged for another one.

If the voltage is good at the battery terminals, then you have a bad connection somewhere. Start with the heavy cables and then work your way down.
 
I'd get my money back and go check you local O'Reilly's for the 850 CCA battery for $115. My current Motorcraft battery just turned 3 and it's giving me issues in the cold since it's only a 650 CCA battery.
 
FASTLLS said:
IIRC, the LS came with a 750 CCA battery.. I have a 850 CCA in mine at the moment..
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I thought that many (gen II anyway) came with 650. Both of mine did. The 2006 service manual only indicates the 650. My experience has been that under warranty, they put another 650 in. (The one in my 06 cracked and started leaking acid after I hit a big pothole.) If you have to pay for it, you get the 750.
 
What voltage should a good battery have? Greater than "X". Also, my old and new batteries both labelled as having 650amps.
 
ls'd said:
What voltage should a good battery have? Greater than "X". Also, my old and new batteries both labelled as having 650amps.
Click to expand...

650 is the right number, and unless you have added a audio amps, it should be all you need.

Resting (a few hours after charging, with no load) 12.6V indicates anything from fully charged to half discharged. Below 12.6 indicated almost fully discharged. Below 10V (at rest) and the battery is damaged.

The ideal battery voltage (while being charged/maintained) is 13.8V, but the LS like most cars seems to hold to just over 14V while running. 15V and over is a problem and will shorten the battery's life.

While under starting load, the battery voltage shouldn't go below 10V (new battery), but it should still start okay at 9V (old battery) most of the time.
 
Put the charger back on this morning, and at lunchtime it read 13.19V. Put in in car, and it read 12.78 across terminals and 12.56 in car. Still would not start. Used start boost feature on battery charger and the thing started and showed 13.84 to 13.91 in the car.
Unhooked charger and let it run for awhile, shut it off and restarted it. Let it run for about 10 minutes and shut it off.(lunch break over) I will try to start it again this evening and report.
 
ls'd said:
Put the charger back on this morning, and at lunchtime it read 13.19V. Put in in car, and it read 12.78 across terminals and 12.56 in car. Still would not start. Used start boost feature on battery charger and the thing started and showed 13.84 to 13.91 in the car.
Unhooked charger and let it run for awhile, shut it off and restarted it. Let it run for about 10 minutes and shut it off.(lunch break over) I will try to start it again this evening and report.
Click to expand...

Some auto parts stores will load and capacity test car batteries (you have to take it out of the car). You may want to do this and then return the battery if it doesn't meet its specifications.
 
hell I bought my current battery at k-mart (closest place at the time) they had the proper replacement with vent and everything! :D it was only about $85 too
 
Well the car fired up just fine when I got home from work, but I will heed the advice and get it load tested tomorrow at a local A-Z, and take it back to the dealer if necessary.

My sincere thanks and appreciation to Joe and Fast and everyone else that helped with this not so Bizzare problem.

This site has a wealth of knowledge and a person could spend hours looking and learning as I have done. Plus the talent and passion of the members is incredible...if not Bizzare:)

Thanks again!!
 
ls'd said:
Well the car fired up just fine when I got home from work, but I will heed the advice and get it load tested tomorrow at a local A-Z, and take it back to the dealer if necessary.

My sincere thanks and appreciation to Joe and Fast and everyone else that helped with this not so Bizzare problem.

This site has a wealth of knowledge and a person could spend hours looking and learning as I have done. Plus the talent and passion of the members is incredible...if not Bizzare:)

Thanks again!!
Click to expand...

I'm putting my dollar down now saying that battery is shot. Mine has been doing the same thing you're going through. I have to let the car run at least 20 minutes every time I start it or it doesn't start again.
 
Yeah, I think you're right. I'm still stuck on - I replace a window regulator and then my old battery happens to fail after no sign of troubles followed by getting a bad new battery?!.....possible, yes...probable, no. I never would have made that bet before, but....

....I just have to let it go.........okay... its gone......ehh....maybe not.
 
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