Best way to remove rear bolt when replacing UCAs?

[Scallywag]

Well, it's my turn to do the the upper control arms. YAY!! :wrench

The UCAs on the BA Mark visually seem worn along with the slight play they have when hoisted which obviously results in the recent clunking/rattling when driving over uneven pavement.

I already got the replacement Dormans from Rock Auto(might get MOOGs or NAPAs when i do whole front build this summer) and between 6 shops was priced between $150-$200 to do the labor(forgot to ask if any guarantee came with the labor). Is that "decent" price range?

I'm super novice when it comes to cars, but thanks to all the writes-ups here and the other sites I've done my own tune ups(except for the oil change), the lower ball joints, fuel filter, air silencer, thermostat, crossover tube, blend door, etc. I figured a quick poll would help me lean towards the most recommended method in getting the infamous rear bolts off in this job as I don't want to risk driving it any longer as it is.

Anything else to buy before the job or look at just in case while I'm down there?

Thanks a lot in advance!! You guys are great!!

 

[97MarkJA]

i had no issues with a 18mm ratcheting wrench.

 

[Sapperfire]

Go to Sears or NAPA (NAPA has the better set) Gear Wrench set $80ish .. youll need the 13mm and 18mm

Remove the 2 nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster... push master cylinder over towards motor, remove rear UCA nut, the bolt is captured with an anti-spin tab..so you just remove the nut and push the bolt out.

Tip.. remove the bolt at the Ball Joint first, and smack the ball joints collar with a hammer to dislodge it
Then remove the bolts holding the arm to the frame


If you want to pay someone $20 per nut/bolt.. I guess

 

[Scallywag]

That seems easy enough. I kept reading how some folks were skeptical about messing the master cylinder.

Unfortunately for me, the local NAPAs only have SAE Gear Wrench sets available & SEARS has this 20 pc SAE & MM for $59.99 but only at the downtown location about 15 miles away. I'll just get the individuals from Advanced for now and have at it. Not sure though if I should get the 18mm & 13mm ratcheting or just the 18mm ratchet since I already have a 13mm non ratcheting combo wrench.

My current tools are limited as I have this AutoCraft 140 pc set which doesn't have a 18mm wrench and this Air Tool Kit.

Time to get my hands dirty!

 

[Sapperfire]

That seems easy enough. I kept reading how some folks were skeptical about messing the master cylinder.

Unfortunately for me, the local NAPAs only have SAE Gear Wrench sets available & SEARS has this 20 pc SAE & MM for $59.99 but only at the downtown location about 15 miles away. I'll just get the individuals from Advanced for now and have at it. Not sure though if I should get the 18mm & 13mm ratcheting or just the 18mm ratchet since I already have a 13mm non ratcheting combo wrench.

My current tools are limited as I have this AutoCraft 140 pc set which doesn't have a 18mm wrench and this Air Tool Kit.

Time to get my hands dirty!

You gotta be careful with the Sears gear set.. for some reason the 10mm box in their set isn't punched all the way thru , so you can only fit the box over a bolt head 1 way, this can be an issue in some usages with it being a 30* angle head wrench
For anyone who wants to do work themselves, I strongly suggest a set of these. For what you're doing though, you only really need the 18mm for now, sockets can be used all everything else

 

[topher5150]

I picked up a metric set of these, and was able to get behind the drivers side without removing the MC

 

[2002WRXSTi]

I got an 18mm GW from Autozone when I did mine last year but now looking at what Topher used I almost feel like kicking myself cause I have a set of those wrenches

Should be quicker at it this time as I am only doing Uppers and not Lowers with Sway bars this time.

 

[soduka]

UCAs are a really easy job when someone just cuts a giant hole in the wheel well so you don't have to go from the top around the master cylinder.