Best method to ensure a PERFECT paint match?

lseguy

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I've had a scratch on my passenger side doors for about a year now. Long story short, it's def to the metal. I did the wetsanding (3000 grit) method a few times in order to reduce the level of surrounding clearcoat around the scratch to try to hide it..2-3 lite strokes at MOST..each time. Then rubbing polish, then regular polish, then wax. (those steps to remove the fine sandpaper scratches). Only mild improvements at best. But each time, less of my fingernail would "catch" in the scratch.

Keep in mind 2 bodyshops had already told me that it would require a respray, even before I wetsanded.

A couple of weeks ago I said what the heck, and tried one last wetsand. Well, that was the last one I guess, and I apparently went all the way through to the paint based upon the cloudiness left on the paint (even post polish) as well as the dark color now being left on the polishing rag.

So...time for that respray I've been putting off.

2002 with all paint in excellent condition. Not a ding anywhere.

My question:

Whats the best method to ensure that a respray is as close to perfect as possible? Do i insist that they reshoot that entire side of the car (One thing I HATE is to see mismatch doors/fender/quarterpanel...sticks out like a sore thumb to me) so that when viewing from the side, all panels match?

Is it possible that a decent bodyshop can reshoot that door, and get a near perfect match?

The color is a metallic silver (forgive me..I forget the actual factory name of my color..it's the goldish silver with metallic flakes).

Any tips are appreciated.
 
i just had my bumper repainted. they sanded the entire bmper down to plastic then respray. i have the tri-color paint and they got a near perfect match. they use tints in the paint to get a close match, they dont just throw the paint on there no matter what shade. if you take it to a good shop they should get it right. dont do maaco.
 
Paintscratch.com, just make sure you get the right paint code and I think you're set.
 
Thanks..but Im far gone from paintscratch.com. lol.

The clearcoat is gone in a section approx 1 inch tall and about 1.5 feet long on the door. I need it re-shot.

I'll do some local research on bodyshops and pick the best I can find. thanks
 
I HIGHLY recommend going to a Ford or Lincoln body shop if you can find one. The silver from Ford is hard to match. I have the JP Silver Birch Metallic and there are 4 different variations of that paint code alone from Ford depending on the production date!! Ford body shops do a great job and are not as expensive as you would think.
 
I HIGHLY recommend going to a Ford or Lincoln body shop if you can find one. The silver from Ford is hard to match. I have the JP Silver Birch Metallic and there are 4 different variations of that paint code alone from Ford depending on the production date!! Ford body shops do a great job and are not as expensive as you would think.

Ditto!

Metallic paint is very hard to get an exact match due to such variables as humidity and getting the metal flake to lie down exactly like it did originally.

FYI: Your paint code is on a label; driver side; by the hinge; near the bottom of the label; line after Trailer Towing; EXT PNT: _____. Mine is also JP.
 
I had an 02 in Silver Frost Metallic, which I had purchased as a demo. The dealer had 'fixed' a scratch in the door using one of those spot-repair places. Basically, they painted maybe 1 sq ft around the scratched area, and blended the clearcoat into the rest of the door. The result was hideous. The paint color just did not match, and of course the clearcoat was a mess too. My current LS is black, so I shouldn't have those troubles again.
 
I went to the dealer for my spoiler. Perfect match. Wouldnt go any other way. Plus dealerships will usually stand by their work alot better. I made them redo my spoiler because there were some pinholes in it.
 

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