Best brake rotors?

Staffamerica74

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Well I know that my mark had new brakes put on it before i purchased it, It stopped very nicely. Well now after 8k the rotors are already warped. I know that its a very common problem with our cars. This got me wondering what rotors are the best to buy to keep this from happening so prematurely.
 
No such thing as rotor warping, except under very very extreme cases. Excess material transfer is what you have. You either didn't bed the pads properly, or your pads are a cheap design.
 
So you are saying if i bought pads for it, all would be well? I bought the car with the brakes on the car, not sure how long they were on the car before i got it but it stopped very well and the rotors looked new(no build up of rust).
 
Staffamerica74 said:
Well I know that my mark had new brakes put on it before i purchased it, It stopped very nicely. Well now after 8k the rotors are already warped. I know that its a very common problem with our cars. This got me wondering what rotors are the best to buy to keep this from happening so prematurely.
I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM
 
Staffamerica74 said:
So you are saying if i bought pads for it, all would be well? I bought the car with the brakes on the car, not sure how long they were on the car before i got it but it stopped very well and the rotors looked new(no build up of rust).

No. Your rotors are contaminated now. They need to be cleaned. You can either have them resurfaced, or if you are handy with a wire brush and a drill, the stuff will come off without affecting the metal rotor.

Then get new pads and bed them properly. My preferred method is to do several hard tops from 70-10 mph, without ever coming to a complete stop. Might sound weird, but that's Stoptech's recommended process and I have never had a "warped" rotor since then, no matter how hard I used my brakes.
 
Yeah after you initally replied i went and researched how to properly do it, I figured that the previous owner already embedded them properly when i bought the car, guess I was wrong.
 
So you are saying that rotors don't warp? Rotors do in fact warp.
 
turborich said:
So you are saying that rotors don't warp? Rotors do in fact warp.

This was proven incorrect after several major manufacturers began examining the material and the metal grain.


They found that the "warped" rotors being returned were not warped at all. The examined the metal grain, cut them up, everything, and they could find no signs of warpage at all. In fact, they found that a rotor will develop massive visible cracks before it will ever warp.

What they did find was that cheap brake pad materials were being transferred from pads to the rotors surface.

I have never had a problem with rotor warpage on my Mark VIII since I started bedding the pads properly, and I use my brakes so hard that I have literally fried pads, but never any rotors.

On the same side of things, I have seen $4000 brake kits with rotors the size of pizza plates get "warped rotors" under normal driving simply because they were not bed properly.

There was a guy on LOD who purchased a set of Frozen Rotors for his mark VIII. They warped within 4k miles. He was told by Frozen Rotors that his rotors had excess material transfer and to clean them off with a wire brush. Cleaned them off, bedded his pads properly, and never had another problem since. Frozen Rotors says they have never had a rotor warp, a claim which has gone undisputed to this day, even after years of business.

It's just old thinking. People see metl with an uneven surface, and they just blame it on warping. But it turned out to be far more complex than that.
 
never heard of that cuz if you are some dumb kid that goes puddle jumping with hot rotors they will warp almost instantally and you cant transfer materal that quickly to make a car stop smooth one min and then rattle out your teeth the next and if you cut a rotor too thin it will also warp faster due to less efficent hear transfer to cool it
 
chickenviii said:
never heard of that cuz if you are some dumb kid that goes puddle jumping with hot rotors they will warp almost instantally and you cant transfer materal that quickly to make a car stop smooth one min and then rattle out your teeth the next and if you cut a rotor too thin it will also warp faster due to less efficent hear transfer to cool it

I lived in Florida for several years. I had to go into water up to my doors (inevitable, flooding) and never warped any rotors that way, even if they were so hot that they left a cloud of steam in the air from hitting the water.

As far as cutting the rotors go, cutting will not stop or slow excess material transfer. The same thing will happen again without proper bedding. It will just happen faster because of the excess heat. One of the biggest things in pad bedding is not co come to a complete stop while the pads are bedding. If you do, you get material transfer, and the whole thng is screwed up.
 
If your wheels are over torqued, and you do a lot of heavy breaking, like in an auto-x or road course situation, rotors will indeed warp. Trust me, been there, done that.
 
Dominus said:
No such thing as rotor warping, except under very very extreme cases. Excess material transfer is what you have. You either didn't bed the pads properly, or your pads are a cheap design.


Could it be that the lugs were not torqued properly?
 
PHRANQUY said:
If your wheels are over torqued, and you do a lot of heavy breaking, like in an auto-x or road course situation, rotors will indeed warp. Trust me, been there, done that.

What does wheel torquing have to do with the rotors? They're iron. Your wheels or studs will break before torque on the rotor hat ever will cause iron that thick to warp. What exactly is the physics behind that? Clamping aluminum or steel on iron bends iron?

How did exactly were you measuring warpage on the rotors? Did you only check the surface, or were the rotors actually examined?
 
These rotors will warp. As will any steel that is constantly overheated. Cheap pads could have something to do with it.........and possible not bedding them properly. But these cars are too heavy for these wimpy calibers and their little pistons. Clean the rotors and put an indicator on them. That will tell you without a doubt, if they are warped or not. The best thing you can do is buy good quality rotors.........drilled/slotted maybe, with either ceramic or EBC Green Stuff pads, that develop less heat...........oh and bed them per the instructions. That is on the cheap.......otherwise you can go to a aftermarket Cobra system or something. I used to have problems with my 96 LSC, but a set of drilled/slotted rotors, and Ceramix pads seemed to cure it. I ran EBC's on my supercharged Mustang at the strip, and they worked very well, as well.
 
Frat-man-du said:
anyone have thoughts on all the cheap drilled/slotted rotors on eBay?

I have a set of drilled rotors from eBay. I have had them for about 5K and no complaints yet. I do recommend getting some that are zink coated. (i paid around $175 4 rotors and pads)
 
Dominus said:
What does wheel torquing have to do with the rotors? They're iron. Your wheels or studs will break before torque on the rotor hat ever will cause iron that thick to warp. What exactly is the physics behind that? Clamping aluminum or steel on iron bends iron?

How did exactly were you measuring warpage on the rotors? Did you only check the surface, or were the rotors actually examined?

A friend of mine used to run a machine shop. Before he put them on the lathe, he cleaned them with a wire brush and checked for runout.
 
JC1994 said:
I got mine from R-1 concepts on E-bay and I recommend them. 125.00 bucks for 4 delivered. :D


How did you get them for 125.00 + free shipping. Looks to me they are 139 + shipping. I'm getting ready to by them and I would like to know.

Greg
 

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