Barely Starts, Please Help Troubleshoot

ReneRobert

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Starting today my 01 Lincoln LS 3.9L is barely starting. It takes several seconds to crank over. It definately was taking longer than normal to start. It did this several times.
I took it to advanced auto and had them do a systems check on it. The alternator, and starter checked out fine but the battery showed up weak. So I bought a new battery, put it in and it still barely cranked over. Didn't solve the problem.
I'm thinking it's the fuel pump, any idea how to test that? Or any ideas on what else to test and try?

P.S.
I just put in new fine wire spark plugs and Accel mustang coils, and it ran fine for a few days. And now this...
 
Mine is a little hard starting, but not from a weak battery or anything. Just seems it takes a bit to actually fire up. My guess is fuel pump on it's way out.
 
Okay, we need to use clearer terms, because some of your statements seem to contradict each other.

When you say "barely cranked over" do you really mean that? Barely cranks over means that the starter turns the crankshaft over very slowly. This would almost always be an electrical problem such as a bad battery, bad starter, or bad wiring.

Or, do you really mean that it turns over normally, but it takes a long time for the engine to catch and fire up and start to run? This would support the fuel pump theory or any one of dozens of other possible problems.
 
...
P.S.
I just put in new fine wire spark plugs and Accel mustang coils, and it ran fine for a few days. And now this...

I can't speak to the Accel coils, but it is unwise to use anything but the OEM plugs or equivalents.
 
Sorry, to clarify, it cranks over but takes longer than normal. And multiple people on the forum have been running the Accel coils for a while with no issues...
The car has 108k miles, any idea how long the fuel pumps last? I have a 88' Conquest TSi and the fuel pumps on those are only good for a 100k miles.
 
If you are over 75K, a fuel pump can be a potential factor.
 
Alright, that's so far what I'm leaning towards.
Also, I forgot to mention something else. I turned the key to accessory for five seconds, turned it to the off position then tried to start the car. And it still took a while to start. This didn't really rule anything out for me.
Is there another way I can test the fuel pump?
 
sure. test the fuel pressure at the schraeder valve on the fuel rail. I have no idea what the pressure is supposed to be. I just know that's how you can check.

I am also very overdue for a new fuel pump. That's actually next on my list of replacement parts.
 
I have no idea what the pressure is supposed to be.

You're killing me smalls. Lol. Good idea about testing from the schraeder valve.
Anyone have the manual on a disc or online? That way I can look this up?
 
Wow, the service manual lists a pretty big range. 30-65 psi. Same pressure for whether the engine is running at idle, or not running with the key in the ON position.

Remember that even something as simple as a clogged fuel filter can do that too. I'd probably change that too, if you haven't recently. In fact, that's what I'd start with. They're only like 15 bucks. Might as well.
 
If you have a second key you may want to try it and see what happens.

if the issue was a PATS thing, the PATS light would be flashing and it wouldn't start, since the car is starting after cranking for a while, i doubt the PATS has anything to do with this
 
if the issue was a PATS thing, the PATS light would be flashing and it wouldn't start, since the car is starting after cranking for a while, i doubt the PATS has anything to do with this

I agree. I would test fuel pressure (as was suggested) and if that is okay, I'd replace the plugs with OEM type plugs before checking elsewhere.
 
I have a similar issue. Fuel pressure at the fuel rail, when turning the key to the ON position without starting, was a quick blip to 30psi, then a slow, steady decline. I started it once it reached about 25psi. A little difficult to start, but did start. At idle, pressure wobbled right around 30psi (29-31). Pressure did not gain very much when I opened up the throttle.

The service manual says acceptable range is 30-65 psi. I think that being on the very low end of that could point to a weak pump.

I have suspected for some time that I've had a weak fuel pump, so I am trying to find out which damn pump style we use so I can order the replacement. I want an upgraded one, so was looking at a Walbro gss342 universal 255lph hp pump. But I have yet to have someone tell me that it will work in the LS. I've never had the pump out before, so I don't know what the stock one looks like.

Also, I have a set of OEM plugs in there. About a year and a half old.

car: 2000 V8, 150K.
 
i would also throw a new fuel filter in there if it hasn't been done yet, on a 01 its got to be about due
 
yep, I recommended that to him a few posts up. Simple job, and they are pretty cheap.
 
Pektel: Question. It appears you have gotten 150k (or close to it) miles and 10 years from your OEM fuel pump. Considering that success rate, why would you choose to not go with another OEM pump?
 
a valid question. I.m not sure if i want to take the ls all too much further performance wise. But if i do, i want to make sure that part of the equation is covered.
 
gotcha. I know over on the BMW side (E36's mainly) that the OEM fuel pump is good for quite a few mods, even mild F/I applications have been proven to be ok for the stock pump. Ford/Lincoln may be totally different though.
 
There are 2 pumps in the LS. One is a jet pump and sender and the other is fuel pump and sender.....one list at 421.76 and the other is 354.17. YOWZER!! one is the open style and the other is a module style like the MarkVIII.
 
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There are 2 pumps in the LS. One is a jet pump and sender and the other is fuel pump and sender.....one list at 421.76 and the other is 354.17. YOWZER!! one is the open style and the other is a module style like the MarkVIII.

Normally, it is the main pump that is the problem, but i have recently read about some failed jet pumps.
 
You know, the LS starts fine first thing in the morning. But during the day, it starts hard. I'm wondering if this could be attributed to a bad fuel injector.

Can a failing/failed injector make a louder than normal ticking noise?

I mean, there are some textbook symptoms of a faulty injector: Hard to start, runs a little rough at low rpms (vehicle in D, at a complete stop, about 700rpms), and it seems like my gas mileage isn't what it should be. I've been driving conservatively, and still only getting about 16mpg mix.
 

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