bad oil pan

PunkRockLS

PunkRockLS

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Hey guys. I've posted a few times here with the name Nickysick. Theres got to be some glitch in this system because i can never logon with that user. Anyway... here's the story. I'm still not too familiar with my LS. Most of my mechanical experience is with 60's chevys. I was trying to jack up the front end to change the oil. I was off my mark and didn't realize i was on the oil pan. It's now got a small puncture and is dripping a couple drops of oil every couple seconds.

Any thoughts on how much this would cost to repair at the dealership? Are there cross-members that need to be removed to drop the pan?

Any info is great. Thanks everyone.
 
So i'm back now. Dropped it off at Ford this morning. They are quoting $1,450
Said they have to remove lots of the subframe and lift the motor. I'm think i'm %ucked. Does this sound right? Any alternatives?
 
try this... http://deneau.info/ls/

Oil Pan

Material Item Specification
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
XO-5W20-QSP (in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12) or equivalent WSS-M2C930-A

Removal

CAUTION: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the 17 bolts and the oil pan.
Discard the gasket.
Installation

CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leaks paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of sealant.

Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
NOTE: Make sure all gasket sealing surfaces are clean and dry.

Install a new oil pan gasket, oil pan and 17 bolts.
Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).

Fill the engine with clean engine oil.
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .

s6x~us~en~file=n0033478_gif~gen~ref.gif
 
Change it yourself!

I would definately change it yourself. $1400 is way too much. Maybe consider trying to find one at the salvage yard.

Is it punctured at the bottom of the pan? If so, it should be pretty simple.

If my calculations are pretty close, oil pan for 3.9 is roughly $150 for the lower and the gasket is $11. The upper part of the pan is around $200. I couldn't imagine that both the upper and lower are damaged unless you have my luck.
 
i have no doubt that i could replace the gasket and pan myself. it's removing the subframe components and lifting the engine that is out my league. has anyone done this before? is it very complicated?
 
2000LSMichael said:
I would definately change it yourself. $1400 is way too much. Maybe consider trying to find one at the salvage yard.

Is it punctured at the bottom of the pan? If so, it should be pretty simple.

If my calculations are pretty close, oil pan for 3.9 is roughly $150 for the lower and the gasket is $11. The upper part of the pan is around $200. I couldn't imagine that both the upper and lower are damaged unless you have my luck.
Click to expand...

it is at the bottom of the pan. by the way it's a 04 v6 if that helps to get anymore info from you all.
 
I just took my 2000 LS V-8 off the ramps, but I really think that the bottom would just drop and you could manage to get it off and changed.

I am not 100% sure, but I don't think that the engine has to be pulled. I changed my crank sensor this evening and was there looking at my pan and didn't see any major obstructions.
 
I have a 06 with a 3.9 V8. I changed the lower oil pan last year, it took about 20 mins. It was really easy to do and the pan just comes straight out the bottom. The only thing I had to take off was the plasitic plate under the engine. I am not sure about the V6 though, I haven't seen one of them underneath.
 
Hey I only have the V8 info online but here is the oil pan guide for the V6 (2005---should be the same for you). It looks WAAAYYYY more involved than the v8. Sorry for the bad news!

pdf file
 
How big is the hole? This may sound stupid, but I did a quick fix on an older Buick radiator with Bondo. The radiator had a crack in it and I first tried Epoxy, but that did not hold because of the heat. I used Bondo and it held for 2 years until I sold the car. May still be working. You might want to try to see if it works, cheaper than $1400.00.
 
Thanks for the help everyone. My grandpa called an old school guy he knows that has a small shop. He's doing it for $650 with a new factory pan. Damn. I really learned a lesson this time. At least i cut the bill in half.
 
Is this info the same for an 2000 v6 LS ???

I was just told today that I have a gasket leak in my oil pan, the ford dealer qtd me over $700. This is ***** to say the least. There has to be a less expensive way. I'm a female, do u think a guy w/ some mechanical backround possibly do this or where can I go to get this done cheaper???

Thank,
Nancy :il Pan

Material Item Specification
Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Premium Synthetic Blend Motor Oil
XO-5W20-QSP (in Canada Motorcraft SAE 5W-20 Super Premium Motor Oil CXO-5W20-LSP12) or equivalent WSS-M2C930-A

Removal

CAUTION: During engine repair procedures, cleanliness is extremely important. Any foreign material, including any material created while cleaning gasket surfaces, that enters the oil passages, coolant passages or the oil pan can cause engine failure.

With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
Disconnect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
Drain the engine oil.
Remove the 17 bolts and the oil pan.
Discard the gasket.
Installation

CAUTION: Do not use metal scrapers, wire brushes, power abrasive discs or other abrasive means to clean the sealing surfaces. These tools cause scratches and gouges, which make leaks paths. Use a plastic scraping tool to remove all traces of sealant.

Clean the gasket sealing surfaces.
NOTE: Make sure all gasket sealing surfaces are clean and dry.

Install a new oil pan gasket, oil pan and 17 bolts.
Tighten the bolts in the sequence shown in 2 stages.
Stage 1: Tighten to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Stage 2: Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).

Fill the engine with clean engine oil.
Connect the battery ground cable. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .[/QUOTE]
 
Hey is this manual info re: oil pan gasket replacement the same for a LS V6 2000. I need help I'm female my hubby isn't into much auto repair nor does he have the time, the ford dealer qtd me over $700....it's outrageous.
HELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLp
Thanks,
Nancy
 
It is a very involved process to remove the pan on a v6 (see the pdf i posted above). The text you posted I think is for the v8 which is easy.

How bad is the leak? Can you just live with it? $700 buys a lot of quarts of oil ;)
 
R u there??? it says ur online I'm not sure if I doing these posts correctly

Nancy
 
The info someone posted/asked is for a V8, I have a V6 LS 2000. It's not bad but w/b worse. I'm guessing it's worse to do on a V6???

Nancy
 
Before I'd pay a significant sum for repair of a slight leak in the sheet-metal pan of a daily driver, I'd first drain all the oil and cut a tiny piece of tape to cover the hole after strenuous cleaning of the area. Then I'd use a 50 cent piece sized spot of J-B Weld. Note that the V-8 pan is powder coated and if the '6' pan is also, it will be necessary to clean this off before applying the J-B. (The tape should be used to keep any slight ooze of oil from contaminating the sealer.)
KS
 
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