Back with A/C issues...

[rgorke]

I started a thread last month that seems to have been hijacked by several pages of ridiculousness and not taking advice. To be clear, this is NOT directed at joegr nor 04_sport_LS!!!!! So, I'll start a new one.

A/C blowing cool problem: Diagnosis Confirmation

I got my refrigerant topped off by a buddy who is a mechanic and the A/C blew cold for several weeks. Now it is just blowing warm air, not hot like the heater is on but not even close to cool air.

In the meantime, I had a dead battery and replaced it with a Motorcraft BXT-65-750 from the dealership. They didn't have a BXT-66-750 that was in the car, not sure that is an issue or not.

Now, could the battery change caused the issue? Is it the DCCV? It was replaced in 2016. Or might I have a refrigerant leak somewhere in the system?

 

[04_Sport_LS]

I doubt the battery is an issue. I don't know if the 65 series is inferior... but my last 66 lasted 9 years.

First thing you should do... is have your mechanic buddy hook the gauges back up and see if the system lost some pressure. That would typically indicate some of the refrigerant has leaked out.

If it has... have him top it back off, and put some UV dye in the sytem and try to pinpoint the leak.

If your replacement DCCV is OEM... I doubt that is the issue. The OEM valve lasts for years, (but never say never).

 

[joegr]

No, couldn't be the battery.
Probably isn't the DCCV in your specific case.

Probably is a leak. Without a leak, there would have been no need for your buddy to top the refrigerant off.

The main leak spots I have seen on LSes are the scroll control valve o-ring seal, and the Schrader valves on the high side and low side ports. If you have dye in and use a UV light, the leaks usually aren't too hard to find. Clean the dye off and see if it comes back. Don't be too concerned about small amounts of dye on the AC hoses. They are going to outgas a tiny amount.

Also, if you hear a slight hiss when you remove either dust cap from the low or high side port, you've found it.

 

[rgorke]

Thanks guys! I'll head over to have him hook it back up.

Question: If the DCCV was bad, would the hoses from the DCCV be hot, at least the outlet valve? I pinched off the top/left hose and it didn't seem to make a noticable difference and it was NOT hot.

 

[joegr]

Yes, they would be pretty hot.

 

[SultanGris]

Sorry for hijacking that one bud, my bad for sure, but you really should blame 04 sport Is as well, if he wouldnt have been being a total asshat it never would've went that many posts. I don't respond well to asses. ;P

 

[AmsterDutch]

If it has... have him top it back off, and put some UV dye in the sytem and try to pinpoint the leak.

yup!!!!!!!

 

[04_Sport_LS]

Let it go SG. I did. Time to move on.

 

[SultanGris]

Let it go SG. I did. Time to move on.

I have as well, don't start your shit talking again and we're cool. I was wrong to hijack the thread in the first place but I had a similar issue and then your shit talking attacking me was the reason it got out of control, cause I don't just take it, I give it right back. No worries mate, it's all good. I don't let the opinions of people on the internet bother me, but I will respond to shit talking every time, LOL

 

[rgorke]

The main leak spots I have seen on LSes are the scroll control valve o-ring seal, and the Schrader valves on the high side and low side ports. If you have dye in and use a UV light, the leaks usually aren't too hard to find. Clean the dye off and see if it comes back. Don't be too concerned about small amounts of dye on the AC hoses. They are going to outgas a tiny amount.

Also, if you hear a slight hiss when you remove either dust cap from the low or high side port, you've found it.

Hypothetically if it is the scroll control valve o-rings or the Schroeder, how difficult are these repairs?

where is the Scroll control valve?

 

[joegr]

Hypothetically if it is the scroll control valve o-rings or the Schroeder, how difficult are these repairs?

where is the Scroll control valve?

Either are fairly simple, but in both cases you have the evacuate the refrigerant before replacing the part(s), and then pull a full vacuum before refilling the refrigerant.

The scroll control valve is at the lower back of the AC compressor. There are two small bolts holding a cover on, and the o-ring and valve are behind that cover. The o-ring is a special shape, and can be hard to find. You can usually find it on eBay, usually for a Taurus.

The Schrader valves are easy enough, screw the old one out and the new one in. Be sure the lubricate the new with compressor oil (same for the scroll control valve o-ring). Also, be sure to use OEM from Ford. Even so, get two in case one leaks.

Still, don't guess at it, find the leak(s) first.