Audiophiles Need Your Help

Ok lets take it one step at a time. First in the back of the HU you probably used a wire harness since you most likely had the alpine audiophile system because you have rear deck speaker (FYI the cd changer was built into the HU if you have a 01 or higher if not it would have been in the glove box) first let's identify what wires you are using. You should be using do a search for wiring diagram here I think quick ls posted this we want to make sure that you are not already powering the rear deck amp and you are already sending a signal back there and then your amplified it by using the loc hence the pop sound when powered on. You can also just remove the loc and see if the rear deck still is working. Now if you do not get any sound after you remove the loc then just get a 14 Ft RCA cables please make it a good one bad just lower your back seat and test again using the new Rca. If the pop goes away then the old RCA wire s shorted or bent some where and just replace the wire with the new one. If you still getting a pop the then your loc is crappy but the good thing is that you can cut the heads of the RCA jack and splice it to the connector that is facing the cabin on the rear deck amp. That connector has the pwr/ground/remote turn on/left and right inputs just splice the rce to the left and right inputs and it will work no loc needed. I did this to my ls and my brothers ls or just get a new amp the rear decks are only 45watts you can find a cheap amp to power these for like 29 bucks in ebay.
 
Well there is no LOC any longer, got rid of that well before I got a new harness from schoshe. So I still don't quite know what the deal is. Reading through your post I am assuming you are say the amp may be messed up? Like I said wiring and especially audio is not my strong suit. I appreciate the help, but again, your post seems like it would be more geared to me still having the LOC in place, which it is not. Any other ideas?
 
Your right I was assuming that the loc was still in place. They are 2 amps in the car ot atleast there should be if it was not removed one amp you already saw which is the rear deck amp the other amp is also in the trunk on the left hand side behind the trunk liner cover just peel it back and it should be there. So lets eliminate one amp at a time to try to figure out where the pop is coming from. First remove the power connector from the rear deck amo and then power on the car if it pops then the rear deck amp is fine. Then place the power back and unplug the other amp this amp powers the door speakers if the pop still happens after you unplug this amp then its your wire harness. Try re doing the speaker connections one at a time until you hear it pop if it pops as on all of them then replace the wire harness.
 
I had the same problem when I installed a Pioneer head unit on mine. I honestly can't remember exactly what caused it, but basically it's an issue with the amp remote power on lead. I had the exact same issue with trunk space and decided to use the existing rear decklid speakers. They're only 6X8's but provide just enough punch for my tastes.
I know that I was able to fix it with a resistor on that lead wire, unfortunately I don't remember exactly which kind or rather ohm rating it needs. I'll dig around tomorrow and see if I can find it.

Necronommicon said:
Alright, got the stock subs and amp working. One thing though, when the radio powers up the subs pop. WTF did I do to make that happen? Shouldn't there be silence when the radio gets powered up initially?
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Hi I'm new here. Just got a 2000 Lincoln LS from my brother and I installed a Pioneer AVH-P3300BT head unit. Thought I'd help out.

@Necronommicon - You should really try using the search function. I just joined this forum because of the same thing and I found the answer in a matter of seconds.

You need to attach a 1450 ohm resistor inline with the remote turn on wire and it will eliminate the pop. The problem is that too much power is being sent to the amplifier as far as I have read. The resistor keeps it to a power amount that's proper for those speakers.

The amplifier you have there is the stock one that comes with the premium alpine setup. I have the same thing and there are also two small speakers in the center console on the sides near your feet. Not sure if those get hooked up within the same harness that hooks up the subs. Will have to check.
 
shady586 said:
Hi I'm new here. Just got a 2000 Lincoln LS from my brother and I installed a Pioneer AVH-P3300BT head unit. Thought I'd help out.

@Necronommicon - You should really try using the search function. I just joined this forum because of the same thing and I found the answer in a matter of seconds.

You need to attach a 1450 ohm resistor inline with the remote turn on wire and it will eliminate the pop. The problem is that too much power is being sent to the amplifier as far as I have read. The resistor keeps it to a power amount that's proper for those speakers.

The amplifier you have there is the stock one that comes with the premium alpine setup. I have the same thing and there are also two small speakers in the center console on the sides near your feet. Not sure if those get hooked up within the same harness that hooks up the subs. Will have to check.
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Thanks, must not have used the right terms when I searched. I'll do some more digging to see which wire is the remote. From everything I have seen, you will not get the console speakers to wire in, unless I am not seeing it correctly.
 
Doesn't your wiring harness have labels right on the wires itself? Mine does. The remote wire is usually the blue wire that you connected to that Subwoofer Harness you bought.

The remote wire is always blue or blue/white depending on the harness. My aftermarket radio came with a label right on the wire that says REMOTE and then the wiring harness for the car has wording printed right on each wire saying what it is...just check man.
 
Yeah, mine were blank. I don't know, I may have just bought a crappier harness. My new sub harness had the 2 blue wires so I'll throw the resistor in there somewhere.
 
Both of those wires are remote wires now that I think about it. One is a remote wire for the amp that powers the subwoofers and the other is the remote wire for the amp that powers the center channel speakers in the center console. But if the popping is only happening with the subwoofers you want to put the resistor inline with the subwoofer remote wire.

Here is the wiring diagram for the factory connector where you hooked the subwoofer harness into. So just follow the Remote wire to the subwoofer amp which is yellow/red and then see where it comes out on the other side of the factory connector and match that to the subwoofer harness so you can see which remote wire you hooked it up to.

On audiophile systems, there is an 8-pin connector wired as follows:
position 1 = sub + line level signal (gray/red)
position 2 = sub - line level signal (white/red)
position 3 = shield for sub amp signal
position 4 = +12 remote power to sub amp (yellow/red)
position 5 = center channel - line level signal (gray)
position 6 = center channel + line level signal (white)
position 7 = shield for center channel signal
position 8 = +12 remote power to center channel amp (yellow)


What my question is, is what the THIRD harness is for. The large square one. My guess is that it's for the CD Changer in the glove box and the Steering wheel controls? I hope I'm right because I have nowhere to attach it with an aftermarket unit.
 
I'm getting subs but no console. I think that would have to come out of the main radio harness but I'm not 100% on that. I'm guessing that the radio is say 50x4 so only the 4 door speakers are getting power. I don't know if thats correct though. The third harness if I remember right is for the steering controls like you had thought.
 
Nah the 50x4 is regarding the amp built into the deck. It powers 4 speakers. But the center console speakers and the subwoofers have their own dedicated amplifier so the deck's power rating doesn't come into play. You're simply outputting the audio out of the RCA Jacks and sending it to the amps for both sets of speakers.

The wiring harness you got for the subwoofer should have also powered the center speakers as the diagram states that they are on the same harness. Did you hook it up right?
 
Pretty sure I did, went color to color like I was supposed to. I don't know why they aren't working but...
 
By the way I'm just making a guess at something... but are you sure that popping noise isn't because you plugged the RCAs into the wrong pre-amps on your head unit? Read the manual because each set is designated for certain speakers on mine. Usually the top two are pre-amps for the front and rear speakers and then the very bottom set is for the subwoofers. It could just possibly be that you're sending high frequency sound to your subwoofers because you have the RCAs hooked into a front speaker pre-amp.

How many wires altogether did your sub harness have? Two blue/white, two black, and the 2 RCA wires?

Like this?
http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images/270236/big/met-705702.jpg

If so, you can clearly see there is lettering on the wires and it says that the two blue/white wires are both "Amp Turn-On" and both of the black wires are "Amp Ground". So it has to be that it turns on both the Subwoofer and Center Channel Amplifiers and grounds them.

However, there is only one set of RCA Cables and they get hooked into the Subwoofer Pre-Amps. The center channel can't possibly be hooked in with that since the Pre-Amps output low frequency/level sound fit for subwoofers. That center channel needs to have the same frequency as the left/right channels I believe.

Maybe there's a way to splice the Center channel into one of the 4 door speakers to share the sound? Probably wouldn't work well... there HAS to be a way to get those center speakers to integrate with the aftermarket radio.

Oh and just to verify what that third wiring harness is for I found this in another thread.

The 16-pin connector contains the connections to the steering wheel controls and various data bus signals. The cassette systems with external CD changer have a connector dedicated to the signal cable for the changer.

So basically that third wire is useless once you upgrade to aftermarket considering you have to integrate your steering wheel controls with an external adapter made for your specific radio as far as I know. I also don't think it's possible to integrate a factory CD Changer with an aftermarket head unit even if the head unit has CD Changer controls.
 
Ok, I moved around the RCA's today and I did get the center console speakers working, though I am still getting the popping from the stock subs. What size resistor should I solder in?
 
Yea someone answered my question in another thread about the RCAs. I figured you had them setup the wrong way which is what I mentioned before.

Also, not to be an ass but you really seem to not retain information very well. I already mentioned the kind of resistor you need before and you even read it and responded to it.

You need to attach a 1450 ohm resistor inline with the remote turn on wire and it will eliminate the pop.
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So you need a resistor that is rated at 1450 ohms and splice it inline with the remote turn on wire that goes to the subwoofer amp and it should fix the issue. You can probably find this in any sort of Radio Shack or Home Depot type of store or anywhere that sells electrical stuff.
 
shady586 said:
Y

Also, not to be an ass but you really seem to not retain information very well. I already mentioned the kind of resistor you need before and you even read it and responded to it.
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DOH!!:I
Yep totally didn't look at that post again. Sorry. And yes I am waaay lost with audio!!! Meh. Thanks again!
 
ding ding ding, give shady a prize!





the poping is because all ford factory premium sound systems that use this harness, have around a 6 volt amp turn on wire, and sending 12v+ down the line causes a thump in the sound system at start up and shut off. the resistor (1450ohms) cuts back the voltage to an acceptable amount.
 
just out of curiosity, what model alpine are you installing?

if you ever want to kick up the power super easily, just get the Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack. its basically like a super small 4ch amp and kicks out some serious sound with a good set of speakers that can handle it. not to mention it installs super easy, its got two connectors on it and three feet of wire, one plugs into the radio's harness and the other plugs into the radio itself and there is plenty of room to mount it above the glove box and under the air bad. (45x4 watts RMS instead of the decks 17x4 )


also those LOC's are actually pretty good quality, they are made by Rockford and are pretty solid.
 
Ok looking at resistors, is there a specific wattage that has to correlate with the resistance? Like, 1.5K ohm 1/2 watt?
 
no the turn on signal is very low current, so you wont have to worry about over powering it, just a regular ole resistor.
 
Necronommicon said:
Ok, I moved around the RCA's today and I did get the center console speakers working, though I am still getting the popping from the stock subs. What size resistor should I solder in?
Click to expand...

Can you tell me exactly how you setup the RCAs? Did you put the red and white wires on different pre-amps? Like white into the sub pre-amp and red into the front speaker pre-amp? If so, you put red into red and white into white on both?

I just want to know what I should do before I attack this so I don't have to put everything back together and then take it apart again.

It looks like the Red RCA has two wires coming into it which are red and black and then the white RCA has two wires coming into it which are white and black. So it looks like there is a positive and negative wire for each RCA plug.

Here is the metra harness I am using for this.
subwire.jpg

Thanks
 
i dont remember which is which, but one of the RCA plugs is for the center channel amp (mono input) and the other is for the subwoofer amp (mono input). then the blue/white wires are the turn on wire, which need to be connected to a resistor before it is connected to the amp turn on wire from the radio.

if you plug both rca connectors into the sub output, then you will send too deep of bass to the center channel speakers, probably blowing them.

if you plug both rca connectors in to the front outputs, the sub will sound like crap because it is getting full range sound because the amp doesn't have a crossover.

my best recommendation would to get a Y-splitter (2m-1f) to plug into both sub outputs of the radio, then test to see which connector is for the sub amp(either red or white) and plug it into the RCA splitter, then leave the other connector disconnected and tapped off. i would also not hook up the turn on wire for the front amp either (all the wires are on the same side of the plug)
 
Correction from before. The WHITE RCA is for the subwoofer and the red is for the center channel.

red/white and red/gray are the pos and neg for subwoofer and they lead into the white RCA. Gray and white are the pos and neg of the center channel and they lead into the red RCA.
 
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