Audio Advice and Enlightenment

[Phlox]

Seeking help from Joegr, 1loudLS, Andrizzle, LS4me, RollinLS, and any other audio enthusiasts/ knowledgeable folks here at the LvC community!

So, now that I have done my planned upkeep maintenance (I need to update my original post regarding the mechanical maintenance I had planned) to my Gen II 2005 Lincoln LS 3.0L V6, I now have plans to update my entire sound system. The caveat is that I have some questions pertaining to this matter. Let me provide some background info about my car's current system, before I start asking questions, so I don't get flamed here (and yes I have read/researched a fair amount of previously posted audio topics going back 6 or 7 years.)

Build Date: November 2004
Current Mileage: 79k
Current Head Unit: Single Disc / Cassette Deck

Current/Stock System:

Car does NOT have factory amplifiers
Car does NOT have multi-disc changer
Car does NOT have rear deck mounted 6x8 subwoofers
Car does NOT have center console mounted 2.5" mono speakers
Car IS EQUIPPED with ONLY the 6x8 speakers in door panels/skins

Updated PURCHASED equipment:

Head Unit:
- JVC KWV-10 Touch screen DVD Multi-media Receiver
- Has 3 sets of 4v outputs for Front Rear & Subwoofer
Door speakers:
- Rockford Fosgate (Prime R168X2) 6x8 2-way Full Range
- Power rated @ 55w RMS/ 110w MAX
- Frequency range @ 51Hz-20kHz
- Purchased four for both front and rear
- The integrated tweeters have a built in High-Pass Crossover
- ALL speakers will be wired into and powered off the amplifier NOT the head unit
Subwoofer:
- Rockford Fosgate (Punch Stage Two P2D2-8) 8" 2ohm Dual Voice Coil
- Power rated @ 250w RMS/ 500w MAX
- Minimum frequency is 40Hz
- Only plan on installing ONE subwoofer
- Box will be ported, fiberglass-fabricated to match the recommended airspace specs, and form fitted into my trunk
- Will be wired in @ 4ohms to the amplifier
Amplifier:
- Rockford Fosgate (Prime R600X5) 4-Channel + 1-Channel Mono
- Power rated @ 50w x 4 RMS & 200w x 1 RMS 9(Mono) in 4ohms
- Dynamic Power @ 55-58w x 4 RMS & 220-225w x 1 RMS (Mono) in 4ohms
- Amp has frequency & gain adjustments on all channels, plus HP-AP-LP crossovers on speaker channels only

Sorry for the length, I just know that many LvC members like to have as much information provided as possible before answering questions. Now that that's cleared up, I suppose it is time for the questioning.

1.) My first question relates to the tuning of all my components, in-order to produce a clear and clean sound; in addition to, preventing any clipping issues. When setting my gains, frequencies, and crossovers on my amplifier; do I also need adjust the settings provided on my head unit, i.e. Equalizer, Bass Boost, Curvatures, Cross Overs ect. (head unit also has a separate menu for subwoofer adjustments) or should I leave those settings in a 'flat' configuration and let the amplifier do all the tuning adjustments?

2.) I would like most of my bass to come from the rear of the vehicle and the treble to 'scream' up closer towards the front, so when adjusting my frequencies on the amp should I set the SUBWOOFER frequency around 100Hz, the REAR around 95Hz, and the FRONTS slightly higher than the REAR -- say around 110Hz or 120Hz? Yes...No...any thoughts? Should both the REAR and FRONT crossovers on the amp be set in HighPass or should the REAR be set in ActivePass and the FRONT set in HighPass?

3.) My third question is in reference to my parking brake wire on my head unit. Since I have a Gen II model Lincoln, I am aware that there is no parking brake signal to connect my head unit to, so I am asking for some of the best suggestions for a work around for this head unit model. I have read a couple other forums that state that these newer model units cannot simply be grounded to bypass the parking brake feature. I've seen others use 4-pin relays, "micro-bypass" harnesses available for purchase, and examples of people using spare wire and inserting it into the head unit harness then looping it around and connecting it to the brake wire on the unit. I'm perplexed with this issue!

4.) Where can I tap into a RAP (retained accessory power) wire? Although I don't know if I plan to utilize this feature seeing how I very rarely listen to the radio longer than a few seconds after I turn off my car, and I always power down my stock head unit before opening my door...something I've always done in my previous cars. Any information relating to this from the LvC community?

5.) If I plan to add a reverse camera in the near future, where can I locate a Reverse Signal to tap into? I've read about wires in the rear that can be tapped into but if I remember correctly they are negative signals and don't always work properly with other members head units. Are there any hiccups I need to be aware of with this type of installation? If my unit requires a positive reverse signal, does this mean my camera with remain ON at all times and if so, how to I go about solving this by forcing the camera to only switch to ON when the car is placed into the reverse gear?

Once again, sorry about the length of this post, but I was trying to be as thorough and informative about my issues and concerns beforehand to help streamline this Q&A process. Thank you for your time and concern; moreover, I further appreciate any help, thoughts, and considerations regarding my post. Thanks again LvC!

 

[joegr]

4. Do you have a moonroof?
5. I used a relay to make the signal positive, and I powered the camera off of that positive signal. (Wire the relay coil across the two wires to one of the backup lights. Wire one contact of the relay to a positive wire (the positive wire to the bulb is okay for this), and the other contact is your positive reverse signal.

 

[Phlox]

4. Do you have a moonroof?

Nope, one of the frills I wish she did have, being able to peel her top back a little sure would be sexy on those 100 degree plus summer days. Option number two?

 

[joegr]

The DDM (Driver's Door Module) provides a RAP signal on pin 1 of the 26 pin connector. The wire color is gray/violet. It runs across the dash and over to the passenger door.

 

[Phlox]

Appreciate the information you have provided. Almost made it too easy to locate. I figured it might be helpful to post a few photos is hopes of helping any other who may wish to under take a project similar to mine. They are posted below.

Here is a photo of where the DDM (drivers door module) is located. The 26-pin connector is #c501d.


Below is a picture of each pin location for connector #c501d. Pin-1 is the pin required for the RAP (retained accessory power.)


In-case some other might require the actual wiring diagram, it's shown here.


Thanks again. All information is greatly appreciated.

 

[1LoudLS]

Sorry for the length, I just know that many LvC members like to have as much information provided as possible before answering questions.

nothing to apologize for... if all new members were that thorough, their question/problems would get taken care of much quicker.

1.)do I also need adjust the settings provided on my head unit...or should I leave those settings in a 'flat' configuration and let the amplifier do all the tuning adjustments?

the better sound processing your head unit can do, the less you (usually) want your amp to do, while the amp controls are good quality (well as good as the rest of the amp...) they are pretty basic, and you will get much more control from a good head unit. amps usually only have gain, crossovers and sometimes phase, the head unit will (A) have the controls where you can adjust it in the listening position instead of the trunk. (B) have much more functionality and depth of the controls that it offers. for starters, the only settings I would use on the amp would be the gains, set them and leave everything else off. crossovers set to "all pass" and punch EQ turned all the way down (I never like using any kind of boost settings AKA distortion mode like "loud"). use the crossovers settings in the radio, they can be tuned right from the driver seat and some radios even allow you to adjust the slope of the cut. and you really dont want to run the sound through two different crossovers. then once you have your gains and crossovers set, then you will want to go through the EQ and add or take away any of the bands that you want more or less of (can be used to give similar effects to "boost" settings but with less distortion)

2.)so when adjusting my frequencies on the amp should I set the...

depending on how well those specific speakers will sound will really tell you where set the crossover points to. if the speakers can't handle the lower end of the mid bass too well (as in causes distortion on the louder end) I will usually set the front speakers a notch or two higher than the rears (if the radio allows for independent settings) or if the car has different sizes (not really applicable here...). if they can handle the lower mid bass, then i will leave them both set to the same as to not leave out a certain band anywhere. I would also have a slight GAP in the points as opposed to a small over lap. while this sounds like it would cause you to mis out on a small band, it will actually allow you to have a flatter response and avoid a small boosted range...

with crossover points, they are not a 100% cut off, there is a slight roll off to it like this



so as the freq rolls off, there is still a certain amount of the cut band still being produced and while each speakers is playing a little bit, where they overlap would add together to make it closer to flat.

I have read a couple other forums that state that these newer model units cannot simply be grounded to bypass the parking brake feature.

I do not believe JVC or Kenwood fall into that category... there bypass methods have always been the easiest, at least they have never been like pioneer that needs the harness repinning or needing to see the wire ungrounded at startup before it sees ground, or needing wired to both brake wires like alpine does. other time in cars without a brake lever, that wanted to stay compliant, I used the neutral safety wire.





welcome to the gang.

 

[Phlox]

...the better sound processing your head unit can do...the only settings I would use on the amp would be the gains, set them and leave everything else off. crossovers set to "all pass" and punch EQ turned all the way down

The JVC actually has some excellent sound processing features. It's better than many of the 'higher-end' units out there, part of the reason I chose this specific model. Are you recommending that I do not use the frequency settings (for the fronts & rears) on the amplifier, as in, should I set them to their lowest setting or their highest setting? Or should I set them to the low setting that matches my speakers lowest frequency range?

Looks as though I have to do some more research on relays. I am completely ignorant when it comes to those types of issues. I assume that type of information is readily available with a good ol' Google search. Any other hiccups I should be aware of with this installation? Just trying to be 100% informed before I commit, so it doesn't resemble my 'hack job' stereo install I did back in highschool.

 

[1LoudLS]

Are you recommending that I do not use the frequency settings (for the fronts & rears) on the amplifier, as in, should I set them to their lowest setting or their highest setting? Or should I set them to the low setting that matches my speakers lowest frequency range?

as in, it doesn't matter what the dial is turned to because you have it set to AP (all pass) which disables the internal crossover completely

one other odd ball thing, there won't be (a working) illumination wire in the car matching aftermarket harness, so you will need to extend that wire and run it somewhere close that will give you that signal. I ran mine to the supply wire (before the switch) of the light bulb in the ashtray (which you have to remove anyway to get the radio out.)

 

[FDR]

The DDM (Driver's Door Module) provides a RAP signal on pin 1 of the 26 pin connector. The wire color is gray/violet. It runs across the dash and over to the passenger door.

Where does the factory radio get the power to stay on? When I replaced my radio, I lost the RAP feature. I used the [Metra?] harness adapter supplieed by Crutchfield. Did I wire it wrong or am I missing some info?

The JVC actually has some excellent sound processing features. It's better than many of the 'higher-end' units out there, part of the reason I chose this specific model...

Looks as though I have to do some more research on relays. I am completely ignorant when it comes to those types of issues. I assume that type of information is readily available with a good ol' Google search. Any other hiccups I should be aware of with this installation? Just trying to be 100% informed before I commit, so it doesn't resemble my 'hack job' stereo install I did back in highschool.

Cool. I picked a JVC It's a single-DIN KDa95BT though.

Relays. You have 4 contacts/pins. Two pins (85 and 86) are either side of an electromagnetic coil, the other 2 (30 and 87) are "switched" with a flexible strip that moves depending on the state of the electromagnet. You need a voltage difference (12v+ and 0v/ground) to operate the magnet and pull the strip to close the circuit (this applies to a majority or automotive relays and nearly all 4-pin versions; 5-pin relays are slightly different).

Normally, with a 12v signal wire, you connect one side to the signal wire (such as battery 12v -> toggle switch -> relay) and one to the chassis. With the negative wire being switched and the positive wire being constant, you can't use the switched/signal wire and the chassis, since both are ground. All you do is power the coil (pins 85 and 86) by both wires for the bulb. Connect pin 30 or 87 (doesn't matter) to a constant positive, wire the remaining pin to the camera signal.

For example, wire relay pin 85 to the bulb's negative wire and 86 to the bulb's positive. Wire pin 87 to the bulb's positive wire as well (or to pin 86). Wire pin 30 to the camera signal. The positive and negative across pins 85 and 86 energize the magnet, then the positive voltage can travel across from pin 87 to pin 30.

It's really not bad, it's just not normal for an automotive application.

 

[joegr]

Where does the factory radio get the power to stay on? When I replaced my radio, I lost the RAP feature. I used the [Metra?] harness adapter supplieed by Crutchfield. Did I wire it wrong or am I missing some info?...

This signal does not run to the factory radio. Instead, it (the factory radio) does the function internally, using information from the car's data bus to know when the door has been opened after the key is turned off.

 

[FDR]

That seems more complicated than necessary. Thanks for the info. I was a little dosappointed when I lost the turn off delay, but it isn't that big of a deal since you can turn the key one notch to accessory. If I open the dash again, I'll take a look

I also remember the favtory radio occasionally turning on just from unlocking (maybe locking) the car and later finding the CD had advanced about 60-120 seconds. Anyone else experience that?

 

[Phlox]

...because you have it set to AP (all pass) which disables the internal crossover completely...there won't be (a working) illumination wire in the car matching aftermarket harness

This! I've got the understanding down now. How would I survive with out the community, lol. On another note, talking about the Illumination wiring has me pondering my Auto Dimmer wire on my aftermarket head unit. I was planning on wiring that to the headlight switch (NOT Auto or Parking, ONLY Headlight) so when I flip on the headlights, that triggers the dimming feature. I don't use Auto, and I use my Parking when the sun is still relatively above the horizon. Will this work correctly?

For example, wire relay pin 85 to the bulb's negative wire and 86 to the bulb's positive. Wire pin 87 to the bulb's positive wire as well (or to pin 86). Wire pin 30 to the camera signal. The positive and negative across pins 85 and 86 energize the magnet, then the positive voltage can travel across from pin 87 to pin 30.

See, I'm telling you I would be utterly lost without this flood of information. The relay wiring seems easy enough...I can handle that for sure.

 

[joegr]

... I use my Parking when the sun is still relatively above the horizon. ...

Pet Peeve #94 - People who use parking lights when they aren't parked. If someone can see your parking lights, then they can see your car anyway. You will see and notice a car with its headlights on way before you notice one without, when the light is fading.

 

[LS4me]

Pet Peeve #94 - People who use parking lights when they aren't parked. If someone can see your parking lights, then they can see your car anyway. You will see and notice a car with its headlights on way before you notice one without, when the light is fading.

Ergo the development (and law requiring in some countries) of DRLs in/for the northern latitudes.

 

[FDR]

This! I've got the understanding down now. How would I survive with out the community, lol. On another note, talking about the Illumination wiring has me pondering my Auto Dimmer wire on my aftermarket head unit. I was planning on wiring that to the headlight switch (NOT Auto or Parking, ONLY Headlight) so when I flip on the headlights, that triggers the dimming feature. I don't use Auto, and I use my Parking when the sun is still relatively above the horizon. Will this work correctly?



See, I'm telling you I would be utterly lost without this flood of information. The relay wiring seems easy enough...I can handle that for sure.

The autodimming on my JVC does not work. I don't know why. Maybe I need another relay workaround? Mine has an optional timed change though, so I set it to be bright blue from 6am-5pm (daylight savings, ugh), then dimmer orange from 5pm-6am to match my dash

We all have to learn somewhere. Ask the right questions and have the intention of learning instead of just doing and you'll pick it all up.

Pet Peeve #94 - People who use parking lights when they aren't parked. If someone can see your parking lights, then they can see your car anyway. You will see and notice a car with its headlights on way before you notice one without, when the light is fading.

It sounds like it's still pretty light out when Phlox turns his parking lights on. It's no different (at that time) than DRLs (excluding 6v high beam DRLs coming directly at you). Both lights usually indicate that the car is occupied and running. But hey, I run my fogs whenever I'm driving. I love the idea of DRLs, but not the forced setting of car-on = DRLs-on. I'd prefer in-drive = DRLs-on, if it had to be [government en]forced. Perhaps in-gear or moving for manual transmissions. Still, I can turn on my lights all by myself.

 

[Blueberryyum02]

Wire the dim cord to the cigar light, that way it only dims when the dashboard lights are on,

My 98 park avenue had daytime running lamps, and that's what I did to it, that way even if I had my lights on in the daytime for a funeral, or by mistake the radio would remain bright, cause it was equipped with a parade function, so if the sensor read bright light, the dash board lights would remain off to not impair vision of the instrument cluster and radio interface.

The down side about it was the lights remain on the whole time the car is in drive. There was no way to turn them off and run say just the parking lights. Car in drive lights on that's it that's all.

I hated pulling in people driveways cause I couldn't turn the lights off until I was in park.

 

[Blueberryyum02]

I have a JVC kW 60

How I have mines setup

Is the front I have amped at full, crossed from the head unit at 100 hz the slope is 12db on the JVC units I had to dig that info up on the Internet
The rear I have off but I run the console speakers on the rear output at 180
The sub I run it at 60

That way it plays up to around a very low 100 Hz

It blends well with the front stage
Since my infinity door speakers play down to 60
Crossed at 100 they play down to 80 and begin to fade at 70 and so on.

I know some will question why use the console speakers and factory amp.

To me it provides a greater imaging plus I don't have to wire in a third amp. To achieve the results I'm getting as for my taste.

The only draw back I have with the JVC is the eq it should have been all separate bands you have to go into the pro settings and play around to get that desired sound, I start off with the natural preset and go from there.

Also on the menu screen if you scroll up I have my speakers set on wide, middle is for 6x8
Speakers.
Narrow is for smaller speakers and standard is a nom setting.

I use wide cause it provides a surround sound effect by me having the console speakers up front wired into the rear outputs.

 

[1LoudLS]

The autodimming on my JVC does not work. I don't know why. Maybe I need another relay workaround?

what did you connect the JVCs illumination wire to?

 

[FDR]

what did you connect the JVCs illumination wire to?

I just now saw your earlier post about connecting it to a dash light. I wired it to what should be the factory illumination wire. Next time I open the dash, I'll try running it to the ash tray light and try the RAP tap.

I think I've gotten as much help from this thread as Phlox did. Thanks everyone

 

[Phlox]

I think I've gotten as much help from this thread as Phlox did. Thanks everyone

Yeah, I know our cars take just a little more time in everything maintenance/upgrade related. I've read countless posts on here (and many other AV Forums) about stereo installs pertaining to the LS and her sister, the S-Type. So, I knew there were some 'tricky steps' involved. This post has been by far the most helpful though.

On a side note, yes it's still daylight outside when I flip the Parking Brake lights on when I'm driving. Like an hour and a half before sundown; sometimes two hours. Everything is still clearly visible without any form of any artificial light. Additionally, my low-beam hid lights from DDM Tuning should be here Monday...woot woot!

 

[1LoudLS]

I wired it to what should be the factory illumination wire.

yeah that will fix it for you. that wire would work for pretty much every other ford up to 2009ish depending on when the new generation came out but the LS was one of ford first radios that tied a lot of functions to the data in the CAN bus. its much easier and needs less wires to have one data wire tell the radio when the lights are on, how bright the other dash lights are, when the doors are opening, how fast the car is going... all sorts of different stuff. its also why most new cars have to have wire harnesses with computer modules built into them that cost at least a hundred bucks just to get anything to work.

 

[Phlox]

....my low-beam hid lights from DDM Tuning should be here Monday...woot woot!

Well my HIDs from DDM Tuning came Tuesday night. Finally had time to install them today and snapped a few pictures while in the process. I thought I might share with the community.

First, I removed the headlamp housing and took off the backplate and the original bulb. I then covered the socket to prevent debris from blowing into the hole.


Used a Dremel tool to slice and dice my headlamp housing.


I then removed the gasket on the backplate and went after it with the Dremel.




Test fit of the backplate with the gasket re-installed.


Next, I used a razor blade to trim the DDM gasket (the one attached to the light housing) to fit properly into the cuts I made.


Wired!




A shot of the first light installed and functioning properly...yes I know she is dirty! Oh, and the ballasts are mounted on the underside of the headlamp assembly.

 

[1LoudLS]

FYI, that seemed like a lot of trimming to get the gap gone, its far easier to just drill a hole in that removable cover and then use that gromet that comes on the wire to perfectly plug that hole as designed...

I really hope your have it sealed up good.

 

[Phlox]

I felt as though it made a fairly decent seal around the wire harness. I guess only time will tell right?

 

[1LoudLS]

you can always add a little silicone to make sure the seal is good, the last thing you want is dust getting in on the inside of the lense...