Nicelysedated
Active LVC Member
My car has now had 3 sets of brakes and 3 sets of tires. I cannot get the brake vibration to go away. Anyone had there hubs go bad?
Anyone had there Hubs go bad?
- Thread starter Nicelysedated
- Start date
there's lots of causes for vibration. My first check would be an out of round wheel. Second guess (on the ls) would be lower control arm bushings...and you have to replace the control arm to replace the bushings. Third guess would be ball joints.....defective hubs would be last on my list and usually they would be accompanied by some noise.
HyeLifeLS
Dedicated LVC Member
beaups said:
I second this.
Nicelysedated
Active LVC Member
its the fronts. Vibration is from the front and its eating up the front brakes and tires. The wheels have been roadforced balanced, that will tell u if the wheel is out of round which it isn't. Also there is a vibration without applying the brakes in the 50+ range. This is why i thought it was the hubs. If it was the ball joints how would i tell? Ive replaced enough parts now, i dont want to just keep replacing things that dont fix the problem.
Are both sides of pads being "eaten up"? About the only thing that warps rotors (outside of incorrectly torquing wheel lugs) is heat. Are your calipers sticking and over heating the rotors? Have you had the master cylinder checked? The LS uses a lot of rear braking so you shouldn't blow through front pads too quickly....
Check for ball joints...
Raise up vehicle so tire is off the ground. grasp tire on top and botom and try pushing in at the top, pulling out at the bottom; then pulling out at the top, pushing in at the bottom. You're looking for play; the wheel should be 100% stationary; no top to bottom movement. If there is any play, you've got ball joint problems.
Check for tie-rod ends; raise one wheel off the ground and do the same motions as for ball joins, but side to side as opposed to top to bottom.
I'd also advise you check to be sure your brake caliper's are not hanging up. Try installing them without the rotor on; they should slid freely. Many people skip putting grease on the slide points; make sure you don't forgot to pay attention to those areas.
Something to think about; cheap rotors are exactly that... cheap; they are made with poor quality materials and poor standards. Replace with HIGH QUALITY rotors.
Vibrations...
A warped rotor will give you a "pulse" feeling when you apply the pedal and vibrations will increase. Ball joints or rod ends will be be a more consistant vibration. Get yourself a run-out gauge and check your rotors for true-ness.
If all else fails, take the car into a shop that specializes in front end work. Have then diagnose the problem
Raise up vehicle so tire is off the ground. grasp tire on top and botom and try pushing in at the top, pulling out at the bottom; then pulling out at the top, pushing in at the bottom. You're looking for play; the wheel should be 100% stationary; no top to bottom movement. If there is any play, you've got ball joint problems.
Check for tie-rod ends; raise one wheel off the ground and do the same motions as for ball joins, but side to side as opposed to top to bottom.
I'd also advise you check to be sure your brake caliper's are not hanging up. Try installing them without the rotor on; they should slid freely. Many people skip putting grease on the slide points; make sure you don't forgot to pay attention to those areas.
Something to think about; cheap rotors are exactly that... cheap; they are made with poor quality materials and poor standards. Replace with HIGH QUALITY rotors.
Vibrations...
A warped rotor will give you a "pulse" feeling when you apply the pedal and vibrations will increase. Ball joints or rod ends will be be a more consistant vibration. Get yourself a run-out gauge and check your rotors for true-ness.
If all else fails, take the car into a shop that specializes in front end work. Have then diagnose the problem