I only have the key and door code, + the manual booklet's code in the back. If I use the lock for all 4 doors, opening the door with the key alarm goes off. And can only turn it off by getting in and putting key in the ignition. Alarm went off again a few moments ago, and car was just sitting. At this point, just want to lock the doors w/o the alarm auto-setting. Is that possible?
Any way to disable 99' Continental alarm?
- Thread starter Sincoln
- Start date
Svets96
Dedicated LVC Member
My '96 Mustang GT did this. Only thing with the Continental there is no key hole on passenger side to get in so alarm wont go off. At least that is what I did with the Mustang.
It could be a faulty hood sensor. Also look at the trunk sensor I'll post some websites up for possible solutions.
car alarm goes ON for no reason - Lincolns OnLine Message Forum
Panic Alarm goes off by itself at night ('99) - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
I found this helpful answer from a lincoln mechanic on JustAnswer.com
I found this helpful answer from a lincoln mechanic on JustAnswer.com
It could also be that lubing the door latches and catch would need attention:
Lincolns OnLine | Tech Tips and Articles
You can't really disable it because its controlled by a large computer for other things like your exterior and interior lights.
Does your headlights and taillights flash at all when the panic alarm is triggered???
It could be a faulty hood sensor. Also look at the trunk sensor I'll post some websites up for possible solutions.
car alarm goes ON for no reason - Lincolns OnLine Message Forum
Panic Alarm goes off by itself at night ('99) - Car Forums and Automotive Chat
I found this helpful answer from a lincoln mechanic on JustAnswer.com
I found this helpful answer from a lincoln mechanic on JustAnswer.com
It could also be that lubing the door latches and catch would need attention:
Lincolns OnLine | Tech Tips and Articles
You can't really disable it because its controlled by a large computer for other things like your exterior and interior lights.
Does your headlights and taillights flash at all when the panic alarm is triggered???
Yep, it goes full-tilt panic mode from just locking the doors with key. I can try and bypass the trunk and hood to rule them out. Nothing on the cluster has given any warnings when driving as of yet i.e. door ajar. If locking the driver's side door is engaging the alarm, that means it has a sensor in there? Couldn't I unplug that as a temp work around?
Thanks for the links btw. Figures the one time I don't use a search, is the time people actually post. Most topics seem to involve the RWD cars when I've been pouring over trouble-shooting stuff with this car.
Thanks for the links btw. Figures the one time I don't use a search, is the time people actually post. Most topics seem to involve the RWD cars when I've been pouring over trouble-shooting stuff with this car.
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Svets96
Dedicated LVC Member
Is it the factory key? There is a chip in it. It could be going bad, you might need a new factory key along with programming it by the manual.
Have you taken the battery out of the car yet? Does the alarm still trip with the battery out of the car???.... I know sounds stupid
Might want to get new batteries for your remotes too.
That's all I can think of for now, unfortunately. I know its really frustrating trying to figure this out.
Have you taken the battery out of the car yet? Does the alarm still trip with the battery out of the car???.... I know sounds stupid
Might want to get new batteries for your remotes too.
That's all I can think of for now, unfortunately. I know its really frustrating trying to figure this out.
It looks like the factory key, with some wear, so not a recently new one. Fits driver and trunk locks. Haven't tried passenger lock yet. Main car battery has been disconnected when car was down, and no issues. No key fobs atm 
I'll look into bypassing the trunk and hood switches (pretty sure unplugging them does the trick or they need jumped). If it still happens, I'll dig into the driver's side door paneling and see if there is a sensor on the lock or lock rod, etc. If it doesn't know the driver's door is locked, it's shouldn't auto-set the alarm. Door open switch in the jamb should only be an issue if sticking and alarm is already set, then it thinks someone forced it. Far as I can tell, locking the driver's door has been setting the alarm, or rather having all doors locked and locking the driver's door after getting out is setting the alarm (can't test atm).
BTW, do these not have a lock-all-door from the driver's lock? My Subaru has that. Shut door, and insert key, turn it and all 4 doors lock. If not, no biggie.
Thank you though guys! If/when it's sorted, I'll try and remember to update.
I'll look into bypassing the trunk and hood switches (pretty sure unplugging them does the trick or they need jumped). If it still happens, I'll dig into the driver's side door paneling and see if there is a sensor on the lock or lock rod, etc. If it doesn't know the driver's door is locked, it's shouldn't auto-set the alarm. Door open switch in the jamb should only be an issue if sticking and alarm is already set, then it thinks someone forced it. Far as I can tell, locking the driver's door has been setting the alarm, or rather having all doors locked and locking the driver's door after getting out is setting the alarm (can't test atm).
BTW, do these not have a lock-all-door from the driver's lock? My Subaru has that. Shut door, and insert key, turn it and all 4 doors lock. If not, no biggie.
Thank you though guys! If/when it's sorted, I'll try and remember to update.
Firebrian
Active LVC Member
The "false" security alarm plagued my 1997 for a couple years, though usually with "door ajar" alarms coming and going, especially in colder and wet weather. As I recall, replacing the driver's door sensor switch fixed the issue. Waking up at 3 am with the car's horn blaring and lights flashing got real old. I ended up pulling the horn switch fuse for periods of time....and always manually locking the car. So even if you're not getting a "door ajar" warning, I don't think it's ruled out. My problem also included interior lights remaining on at times. In some cases, I just removed the battery cable until the next trip.
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Thinking it was the hood sensor causing the issue of random panics. Far as I can tell, the front door and trunk only have the latch, whereas hood had the plunger-style switch, which remember the Mark VIII had that as well and those were troublesome, though they were on the doors too and not easy to get at. Kinda freaked to see NO passenger-side key hole. Not sure why they'd do that.
Was forced to unplug the horn (at the horn connector) until I get a key fob, as every time the driver's door was opened after having been shut for a period of time, it'd cause the alarm to go off. Kinda funny they went through all this trouble to force the alarm onto the user, and yet the horn is very easily accessed from the lower front bumper cover. Just gotta live with the blinking lights for the time being.
Was forced to unplug the horn (at the horn connector) until I get a key fob, as every time the driver's door was opened after having been shut for a period of time, it'd cause the alarm to go off. Kinda funny they went through all this trouble to force the alarm onto the user, and yet the horn is very easily accessed from the lower front bumper cover. Just gotta live with the blinking lights for the time being.
FWIW, the numerical keypad entry works. Have had several Fords with the key pad entry and never used it so wasn't thinking about it, but for whatever reason, it'll unlock AND disarm.
Can you guys confirm if unlocking your door ONLY with the car key, then opening, does that set off your alarm?
Can you guys confirm if unlocking your door ONLY with the car key, then opening, does that set off your alarm?
FlaOkie
Active LVC Member
Because I’m old, I had many cars before the inventions of remote fobs and keypads in the door.
Like a trained monkey, I often unlock and open the Lincolns driver’s side door (and trunk) with the key. No alarm.
Like a trained monkey, I often unlock and open the Lincolns driver’s side door (and trunk) with the key. No alarm.
This is the 1st car I've ever had that unlocking the key lock still caused the alarm to go off.
Wonder if the lock can read the key chip or maybe the key lock cylinder was replaced (incorrectly) at some point. Will have to pull door card and look to see if something is disconnected.
Wonder if the lock can read the key chip or maybe the key lock cylinder was replaced (incorrectly) at some point. Will have to pull door card and look to see if something is disconnected.
Found the reason why the door lock was causing the alarm to go off. It appears someone had disconnected the sensor plug immediately behind the door panel. When I got the car, the alarm would go off in the middle of the night, and that was traced to the hood sensor. My guess is a PO thought the door's sensor was at fault, and unplugged that thinking it was causing the alarm. The sensor must detect if the key was used on the door lock. Plugged in, car off and locked, using the key won't trip the alarm.
FlaOkie
Active LVC Member
It’s always nice when you can make a clean easy fix like that as opposed to finding a bunch of hacked up wires.
I’m old enough to remember when the inside of a car door had no wires.
I’m old enough to remember when the inside of a car door had no wires.
Svets96
Dedicated LVC Member
Count me in too, on missing some of the simpler things.
I like the high tech of these cars, and the new one. But damn you need a Phd from MIT to figure some of these things out.
I like the high tech of these cars, and the new one. But damn you need a Phd from MIT to figure some of these things out.
Yeah, all those touch screens in everything now will be a NIGHTMARE in the future when no one makes replacements, no one fixes them, etc.. The Buick Reatta is a prime example of what happens when they fail and 30 years later you need one. Though newer cars going with everything controlled by theirs is going to mean a ton of cars will be sold cheap when nothing works
Then again, some brilliant engineer tinkering is his spare time will make some junction adapter and people will just use old rooted phones to control everything via a simple usb adapter I'm betting.
Then again, some brilliant engineer tinkering is his spare time will make some junction adapter and people will just use old rooted phones to control everything via a simple usb adapter I'm betting.
Svets96
Dedicated LVC Member
Lol very true. Seems like their making them disposable anymore. You rack the miles on then drive them to the junk yard. They look at it as return business to buy the latest models. Now we both need to figure on a place who makes and sells parts NOS or new OEM for our models. I would like to get involved doing that myself, being a manufacturer distributor.
One thing I've noticed about these (and even BMW from the same era) is if it's not completely rotted from rust, then it was probably taken care of to some degree, and the cars showing up in yards are actually still decent looking with decent parts, but either there from an accident, trans failed, something was ignored and the car quit running, etc..
My replacement hood for example, was the correct color code, and near mint. It still needs clear coat polishing in a couple spots (fine scratches), but it looks great otherwise. If it'd been a Taurus hood, it'd probably be damaged heavily, paint issues, etc. When looking at car-parts.com and clicking on the images most yards will add (often of the entire car) they appear to be good lookers, which means getting a part w/o paying an arm and leg is at least doable.
So happy these have a run of the mill AC/heat cluster panel. Something seemingly so nice with setting it and leaving it alone. Hate how you have to slowly scroll through the temp values (think my Mark VIII was the same way), but otherwise still nice vs. navigating through some dated interface. Disjointed rant over.
My replacement hood for example, was the correct color code, and near mint. It still needs clear coat polishing in a couple spots (fine scratches), but it looks great otherwise. If it'd been a Taurus hood, it'd probably be damaged heavily, paint issues, etc. When looking at car-parts.com and clicking on the images most yards will add (often of the entire car) they appear to be good lookers, which means getting a part w/o paying an arm and leg is at least doable.
So happy these have a run of the mill AC/heat cluster panel. Something seemingly so nice with setting it and leaving it alone. Hate how you have to slowly scroll through the temp values (think my Mark VIII was the same way), but otherwise still nice vs. navigating through some dated interface. Disjointed rant over.