Another '02 LSE V8 Overheating and Heater issues..

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ErnieG22

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Let me preface with I've read a few of the "overheating" threads, but I wanted to start my own because I think my circumstances may be a little different.

02' LSE V8 with 185k started to overheat again. First time it overheated the coolant reservoir was replaced and it seemed to do the trick(before I knew about this forum). It happened again while I was out of town, so my wife called a friend of a friend(backyard mechanic) who said it had a blown HG, so he recommended dumping Bards Leak? I think it was called to seal the system. Again, it seemed to work. 2 years later(6 moths ago) it overheated again, and water pump, thermostat, reservoir were replaced. Seemed to work until 2 weeks ago. Overheated again, so now I'm here seeking advice. Here's the scenario this time around: 1) car overheats, so I fill reservoir with distilled water and seems to hold up fine for a couple days until it overheats again; 2) had another backyard mechanic look at it and he a) "cleaned" radiator; b) cleaned the "hydraulic clutch" motor(cause he stated it was rusted) and he said it may not work when reinstalled; c) drained and put coolant in, but said there was no leak cause he "pressure" tested it; d) replaced a radiator hose; e) replaced another thermostat.
; f) he added "K-Seal" and the reservoir stopped bubbling/gurgling but, Car still overheats.

A week later today my observation after reading some of these threads.
1) fan is working ang speeds up when AC is on
2) I left reservoir cap off today in an attempt to "bleed" the system and I saw a few bubbles and then it subsided.
3) car stayed on in idle for 30 minutes without getting hot.
4) I then ran the car for 10 minutes going 50 mph max and temp stayed in middle.
5) no gurgling or bubbling that I could hear or see in reservoir.
6) My HEATER HASNT WORKED IN 2 YEARS

***I'll include pictures of codes I pulled tonight and a pic of the part the "backyard mechanic" said he cleaned out the rust and he thinks I may need this to keep my car from overheating, but that my car may be fine with the part he cleaned and reinstalled. I guess eBay had one for $125 used.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

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ErnieG22 said:
View attachment 828567361 Let me preface with I've read a few of the "overheating" threads, but I wanted to start my own because I think my circumstances may be a little different.

02' LSE V8 with 185k started to overheat again. First time it overheated the coolant reservoir was replaced and it seemed to do the trick(before I knew about this forum). It happened again while I was out of town, so my wife called a friend of a friend(backyard mechanic) who said it had a blown HG, so he recommended dumping Bards Leak? I think it was called to seal the system. Again, it seemed to work. 2 years later(6 moths ago) it overheated again, and water pump, thermostat, reservoir were replaced. Seemed to work until 2 weeks ago. Overheated again, so now I'm here seeking advice. Here's the scenario this time around: 1) car overheats, so I fill reservoir with distilled water and seems to hold up fine for a couple days until it overheats again; 2) had another backyard mechanic look at it and he a) "cleaned" radiator; b) cleaned the "hydraulic clutch" motor(cause he stated it was rusted) and he said it may not work when reinstalled; c) drained and put coolant in, but said there was no leak cause he "pressure" tested it; d) replaced a radiator hose; e) replaced another thermostat.
; f) he added "K-Seal" and the reservoir stopped bubbling/gurgling but, Car still overheats.

A week later today my observation after reading some of these threads.
1) fan is working ang speeds up when AC is on
2) I left reservoir cap off today in an attempt to "bleed" the system and I saw a few bubbles and then it subsided.
3) car stayed on in idle for 30 minutes without getting hot.
4) I then ran the car for 10 minutes going 50 mph max and temp stayed in middle.
5) no gurgling or bubbling that I could hear or see in reservoir.
6) My HEATER HASNT WORKED IN 2 YEARS

***I'll include pictures of codes I pulled tonight and a pic of the part the "backyard mechanic" said he cleaned out the rust and he thinks I may need this to keep my car from overheating, but that my car may be fine with the part he cleaned and reinstalled. I guess eBay had one for $125 used.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

View attachment 828567362

View attachment 828567363

View attachment 828567364

View attachment 828567365
Click to expand...
I can tell you from mine 04 V8 I replaced all plastic housings and hoses then after I bleed and bleed it still overheated took to shop they said motor was blown. I knew that was not the case I took it to a guy who knows the car and he bleed it correctly and has worked flawless for 2 years . The other day it stalled and cant get it started again. Other issues think its the crank sensor looking in to it now will post
 
It would interesting if you did a compression test on the engine to see where the numbers are. So far it seems like you've tackled all the items pretty good.

So the fan is not working at all, or just at slow speed?

I'd stay away from Bar's Leak IMO, that stuff has made radiator shops lots of money!
 
I know of at least one LS engine that was ruined by leak stop. It coated the inside of the cooling passages enough that there was not enough heat transfer anymore.
It wasn't the head gasket. Leak stop isn't really going to fix any of the problems. Originally, the solution was simple (replace all plastic, bleed correctly). Now, I don't know.
 
1) How do I bleed the system correctly? The bleeding hose next to the degas bottle? 2) my fans seem to work. The guy who worked on it a couple weeks ago stated it may need the part pictured. What's your opinion?
 
De-marko said:
It would interesting if you did a compression test on the engine to see where the numbers are. So far it seems like you've tackled all the items pretty good.

So the fan is not working at all, or just at slow speed?

I'd stay away from Bar's Leak IMO, that stuff has made radiator shops lots of money!
Click to expand...
The fan does work. Seems like it's working adequately. It speeds up when the AC is on. The guy who had his hands on it last stayed that it may need the part pictured above. He supposedly "cleaned" it out(said it was rusted). Also, is there 1 or 2 fans?
 
joegr said:
Why do people keep saying "fans?" There is only one. Has no one ever looked under the hood?

How to Drain the Lincoln LS Cooling System

More likely to need the actuator on the pump, than the fan motor - if there is a problem with the hydraulic fan.
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Perfect. I'll try this bleed today. I thought I bled it yesterday by running it on an incline with the degas bottle cap off.
 
joegr said:
Look for yourself.

There is only one engine cooling fan!
Click to expand...
I bled the system and ran the car for 40 minutes idle. I then ran the car for 10 minutes on the streets and the temperature was good. Today, I drove the car to the car wash(2 miles away) and it overheated on the way back. The coolant sprayed everywhere under the hood. Should I replace the Degas bottle?
 
ErnieG22 said:
I bled the system and ran the car for 40 minutes idle. I then ran the car for 10 minutes on the streets and the temperature was good. Today, I drove the car to the car wash(2 miles away) and it overheated on the way back. The coolant sprayed everywhere under the hood. Should I replace the Degas bottle?
Click to expand...
Where is the coolant leak? You need to first hunt down where the leak is coming from and when was the last time you checked your Thermostat...how old is your thermostat and if you are getting catalyst codes you may need a new catylatic converter, if the exhaust has no where to escape it will make your engine run hot and more than likely over heat...what does your exhaust system look like? Start there first maybe ...just my 2 cents on what I can follow on this thread
 
ErnieG22 said:
View attachment 828567361 Let me preface with I've read a few of the "overheating" threads, but I wanted to start my own because I think my circumstances may be a little different.

02' LSE V8 with 185k started to overheat again. First time it overheated the coolant reservoir was replaced and it seemed to do the trick(before I knew about this forum). It happened again while I was out of town, so my wife called a friend of a friend(backyard mechanic) who said it had a blown HG, so he recommended dumping Bards Leak? I think it was called to seal the system. Again, it seemed to work. 2 years later(6 moths ago) it overheated again, and water pump, thermostat, reservoir were replaced. Seemed to work until 2 weeks ago. Overheated again, so now I'm here seeking advice. Here's the scenario this time around: 1) car overheats, so I fill reservoir with distilled water and seems to hold up fine for a couple days until it overheats again; 2) had another backyard mechanic look at it and he a) "cleaned" radiator; b) cleaned the "hydraulic clutch" motor(cause he stated it was rusted) and he said it may not work when reinstalled; c) drained and put coolant in, but said there was no leak cause he "pressure" tested it; d) replaced a radiator hose; e) replaced another thermostat.
; f) he added "K-Seal" and the reservoir stopped bubbling/gurgling but, Car still overheats.

A week later today my observation after reading some of these threads.
1) fan is working ang speeds up when AC is on
2) I left reservoir cap off today in an attempt to "bleed" the system and I saw a few bubbles and then it subsided.
3) car stayed on in idle for 30 minutes without getting hot.
4) I then ran the car for 10 minutes going 50 mph max and temp stayed in middle.
5) no gurgling or bubbling that I could hear or see in reservoir.
6) My HEATER HASNT WORKED IN 2 YEARS

***I'll include pictures of codes I pulled tonight and a pic of the part the "backyard mechanic" said he cleaned out the rust and he thinks I may need this to keep my car from overheating, but that my car may be fine with the part he cleaned and reinstalled. I guess eBay had one for $125 used.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

View attachment 828567362

View attachment 828567363

View attachment 828567364

View attachment 828567365
Click to expand...
One more thing I would do if you replace catalytic converter(s) or both meaning plural you have two...I would give it a good hot soak with sea foam spray to clean everything out and free up those lifters
 
AmsterDutch said:
Where is the coolant leak? You need to first hunt down where the leak is coming from and when was the last time you checked your Thermostat...how old is your thermostat and if you are getting catalyst codes you may need a new catylatic converter, if the exhaust has no where to escape it will make your engine run hot and more than likely over heat...what does your exhaust system look like? Start there first maybe ...just my 2 cents on what I can follow on this thread
Click to expand...
Thanks for your insight. The thermostat was changed 6 months ago. The degas bottle seems to breakdown quickly in my car(I'm on my 3rd in 2 years). It's an aftermarket purchased from O'Reileys. I noticed the cap seems to be secure, but it continues to turn...it gets tight and then it loosens as I tighten it more and then it gets tight again. I'm not sure if this is normal. As I started prior, my coolant spayed all over the engine bay upon it overheating the other day. Any idea where it can be leaking to spray all over like that?
 
ErnieG22 said:
Thanks for your insight. The thermostat was changed 6 months ago. The degas bottle seems to breakdown quickly in my car(I'm on my 3rd in 2 years). It's an aftermarket purchased from O'Reileys. I noticed the cap seems to be secure, but it continues to turn...it gets tight and then it loosens as I tighten it more and then it gets tight again. I'm not sure if this is normal. As I started prior, my coolant spayed all over the engine bay upon it overheating the other day. Any idea where it can be leaking to spray all over like that?
Click to expand...
Is your over fill coolant hose running from the T-Stat housing to the degas bottle have any cracks in it or is your T-Stat house look cracked I know from reading Senior LVC members who have a lot of knowledge on the LS that aftermarket degas bottles Are not good when keeping pressure especially Dorman...there is a couple aftermarket degas bottles on the market and I see Spectra has one on Rockauto also but I plan on using only MotorCraft degas bottle myself if they still make it that is but what I suggest....take it or leave it ....run the car again until it over heats and look for a trail that is more prevalent to where the coolant might be starting to flow and/or overflow first....What I hear you saying is that it’s like the car puked over the entire engine but in any case there has to be an initial exit spot somewhere and it might mean taking this to a whole new level and replacing all the plastic and hoses for the cooling system....
 
ErnieG22 said:
View attachment 828567361 Let me preface with I've read a few of the "overheating" threads, but I wanted to start my own because I think my circumstances may be a little different.

02' LSE V8 with 185k started to overheat again. First time it overheated the coolant reservoir was replaced and it seemed to do the trick(before I knew about this forum). It happened again while I was out of town, so my wife called a friend of a friend(backyard mechanic) who said it had a blown HG, so he recommended dumping Bards Leak? I think it was called to seal the system. Again, it seemed to work. 2 years later(6 moths ago) it overheated again, and water pump, thermostat, reservoir were replaced. Seemed to work until 2 weeks ago. Overheated again, so now I'm here seeking advice. Here's the scenario this time around: 1) car overheats, so I fill reservoir with distilled water and seems to hold up fine for a couple days until it overheats again; 2) had another backyard mechanic look at it and he a) "cleaned" radiator; b) cleaned the "hydraulic clutch" motor(cause he stated it was rusted) and he said it may not work when reinstalled; c) drained and put coolant in, but said there was no leak cause he "pressure" tested it; d) replaced a radiator hose; e) replaced another thermostat.
; f) he added "K-Seal" and the reservoir stopped bubbling/gurgling but, Car still overheats.

A week later today my observation after reading some of these threads.
1) fan is working ang speeds up when AC is on
2) I left reservoir cap off today in an attempt to "bleed" the system and I saw a few bubbles and then it subsided.
3) car stayed on in idle for 30 minutes without getting hot.
4) I then ran the car for 10 minutes going 50 mph max and temp stayed in middle.
5) no gurgling or bubbling that I could hear or see in reservoir.
6) My HEATER HASNT WORKED IN 2 YEARS

***I'll include pictures of codes I pulled tonight and a pic of the part the "backyard mechanic" said he cleaned out the rust and he thinks I may need this to keep my car from overheating, but that my car may be fine with the part he cleaned and reinstalled. I guess eBay had one for $125 used.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

View attachment 828567362

View attachment 828567363

View attachment 828567364

View attachment 828567365
Click to expand...
What Thermostats did you replace the original with?
 
ErnieG22 said:
Thanks for your insight. The thermostat was changed 6 months ago. The degas bottle seems to breakdown quickly in my car(I'm on my 3rd in 2 years). It's an aftermarket purchased from O'Reileys. I noticed the cap seems to be secure, but it continues to turn...it gets tight and then it loosens as I tighten it more and then it gets tight again. I'm not sure if this is normal. As I started prior, my coolant spayed all over the engine bay upon it overheating the other day. Any idea where it can be leaking to spray all over like that?
Click to expand...

You'll have little but trouble using aftermarket cooling system parts. If you want it to work and to be reliable, then you need to swap it all to new Motorcraft.

There's really no need to find the exact thing that is leaking. You have to replace it all at the same time anyway.
 
joegr said:
You'll have little but trouble using aftermarket cooling system parts. If you want it to work and to be reliable, then you need to swap it all to new Motorcraft.

There's really no need to find the exact thing that is leaking. You have to replace it all at the same time anyway.
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Ok. The degas bottle I bought from O'Reileys is lifetime, so I'm going to try and get my money back. Thanks, Joe.
 
Is replacing the degas bottle relatively easy and straightforward? I'd like to attempt myself(novice, but my brother in law is mechanically inclined in case I need help)
I noticed some white residue on the degas bottle.

After replacing degas bottle, I just need to refill and bleed? Do I bleed via the heater bleeder hose or the engine bleeder hose? Or both? I read bleeding via the heater bleeding hose next to the degas bottle was adequate. Thanks.

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