Aluminum Expansion Tank

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They are kinda "old news".

I would've bought one... but since there is no sight glass, you won't know if the cooling system is leaking. (which it will).

The plastic tank at least lets you see (at a glance) if the cooling system is low.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
They are kinda "old news".

I would've bought one... but since there is no sight glass, you won't know if the cooling system is leaking. (which it will).

The plastic tank at least lets you see (at a glance) if the cooling system is low.
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Trust me you’re gonna know if it’s leaking so I just take the cap off when the car is cold and see where the coolant level is at. Ive never had to add any since I bled it probably 6 months ago, these cars run on the hot side a sight window would melt out of the tank and blow coolant that’s why there is none.
 
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Smokes said:
and a sight window would melt out of the tank blow coolant that’s why there is none.
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False.

Sight glasses are made of metal, that thread into the side of a container such as a metal coolant overflow bottle. The glass is sealed and can withstand high temperatures.

Screenshot_20231002-132832.png
 
A "bung" would be welded into the aluminum coolant overflow bottle, and the sight glass would then be threaded into the bung with some sealant.

This has been done on construction equipment for decades.
 
2 threaded sight glasses would be ideal. One for "full" and one for "low".

Years ago... I had a guy in my area that was going to tig weld up some LS coolant bottles for members... That included 2 sight glasses.

Unfortunately... forum interest at the time was as enthusiastic as watching a snail race.
 
I even did a search through industrial catalogs for bungs... And bung sockets, and found some that would work (welded in).

The problem was that nobody wanted to pay half of what the OEM coolant bottle was through a dealer.

So here we are now.
 
Smokes said:
... these cars run on the hot side a sight window would melt out of the tank and blow coolant that’s why there is none.
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They don't run nearly hot enough to melt glass, that's what, 2600 degrees at least.
 
You better find somebody that knows how to tig weld... and you will need 2 "weld in" bungs... and 2 sight glasses... and measure for "high" and "low" levels.
 
That black tank just blends in so good just a shame I’m gonna have to cut it all up to put a window where you cant see anything, just checked it and still at the same spot inside.

IMG_2531.jpeg
 
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I still check mine and about once a month. I open the bleeder while the cap is closed let some come out and take the cap off and add coolant and close cap and bleed system. I am doing that instead of the sight gauges, I thought about it but I can just check it. used to PMCS HUMMVs for the past 20 yrs lol.

On a side note, I'm still chasing my heater and ac always on full blast. I think it's the blower motor resistor, and I got it from rockauto; but I'm not looking forward to removing the entire dash to replace it.
 
That‘s why I’m ordering another one for my v6 now that I know it’s good……. got both for less than the cost of one oem plastic bottle because I lost count of how many of them I bought with the heat down here so sorry not sorry.
 
Guess I should have said...

"Wait a few years till the other plastic parts fail and you don't know your coolant is low and torch the engine because you got complacent and didn't do a level check".
 
I know this is probably gonna be hard for you to understand as usual but the inside of the tank is not powder coated and I marked the coolant level with a sharpie on the silver aluminum is very easy to see and hasn’t overheated or changed level in 6 months So I’m getting another one.

When the plastics start going I normally smell or hear coolant before ever seeing anything so I know they run at higher temperatures, have to be checked regularly and not left for years like your car probably does-then when something happens it’s really bad and Kaboom.

Ive overheated many times and nothing happened to my engines when I thought the worst too that’s why I run Valvoline so they’re stronger than you think. When it blows it blows then I’ll have an excuse to LSA swap and I’m not scared of no boogie man lol.
 
I didn't know coolant made a sound.;)

And... if you get the aluminum V8 too hot, you will be welding pistons to the cylinder sleeves.

My V8 sees a steady diet of Mobil 1 synthetic. (best "all around" oil on the market as far as I am concerned) Thus the 280k miles on mine... and still going. If I get to 300k, I will be content.

No major engine components have had to be replaced... yet. (fingers crossed)

My simple suggestion was to improve the aluminum degas bottle by putting in sight glasses. If you can't figure the proper placement of them, then that's your problem.

And Joegr was correct. Melting point of glass is 2500-3000 degrees.
 
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