Aluminized

NickT88LSC

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Finally got a chance to change my thermostat housing assembly out to the Jag aluminized one. For those of you that have removed/changed the housing will understand normally I would say on difficulty level it would be a 2 or 3 but since some engineer could not move it forward 1/8 of an inch those back bolts that bolt down into intake that do not leave enough room to get a socket on it while removing all the way and making the bolts 1/2 inch longer than they need to be makes the difficulty level go to 5 or 6.

I was able to get my 1/4" 5/16 swivel socket on the back bolts, one I was able to loosen, the other would not since socket is 12 point and would strip. So I had to hammer a short 1/4" 5/16 6 point socket over it at an angle to break it loose, then back to the swivel socket which only gets it up about 1/2 way before the socket gets jammed on the intake. And froget about getting 2 fingers in there to spin the bolt. So 5/16 wrench you need to use at this point and keep flipping it around since cant get much of a turn.

Now when I put is back together I used the shorted T-stat cover bolts in those rear positions.

IMAG0118.jpg
 
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Looks great Nick. Nothing worse than seeing a nice accessible part that has hidden PITA potential.

Must be nice to work on an easy car for a change!
 
Ha awesome. Let me know if you ever find the damn thing. Of course, don't have the faintest idea of what type of adhesive would be needed to reattach it.

Some LS1-type composite manifolds have those too. Some aftermarket ones even use a smaller replaceable "fuse" port like that that blows out during a nitrous backfire.
 
I remember doing that too! My LS was broken for about a month because I was working overtime, and I had a hard time finding something that would work. I ended up buying a full set of crows feet, and modifying one of them to do the job.
 
My thermostat housing has messed up 3 times now, im tired of changing it and spending money i shouldn't be spending. How much did you pay for this housing? where did you get it? do you have a part number? and other then having a hard time putting it on does it just fir directly in there? Does it use the same thermostat?
 
My thermostat housing has messed up 3 times now, im tired of changing it and spending money i shouldn't be spending. How much did you pay for this housing? where did you get it? do you have a part number? and other then having a hard time putting it on does it just fir directly in there? Does it use the same thermostat?

I paid about $45 IIRC, from Rockauto. Look up the thermostat housing for a '00 Jaguar s-type 4.0. It uses the same t-stat, and fit directly on with no mods.
 
Found this at the hardware store for ~$12. It worked beautifully:

DSC00687.jpg


DSC00686.jpg


Made by Gear Wrench, 8mm, ratcheting, and can pivot 180 degrees. Threw a vice grips on the top to break the bolts loose.
 
.... change my thermostat housing assembly out to the Jag aluminized one.

Nick, can you confirm this would be the correct one ?
~ for 2001 V8 fitment ?

Clipboard01.jpg

I see under thermostat there is an option to get the unit as a whole w/housing.

Clipboard02.jpg

NCE2247ADKIT, would that work ? (housing, gaskets & thermostat)

Any preference on manufacturer ?

Anything else I would need ?

Thanks in advance ...

Clipboard01.jpg


Clipboard02.jpg
 
Thanks Nick, I'm just picking this up to go on my growing LS parts shelf.

My no-heat at low idle started working on it's own, just as the DCCV and Aux pump arrived to the house.
I had bought the new replacement fill cap aswell but then afterwards learned here that there is a good chance
the housing may crack as well when removing the stuck fill cap.

So I'm anxious to get this all aluminized Jag direct fit housing for when I do have to replace my
intermediate failing Aux pump and already faulty DCCV. (warm passenger side during A/C)



So if I have you right ...

~ pick up the NCE2247ADKIT from URO Parts manufacturer.
~ Pick up OEM motorcraft thermostat.

all fits together ?

Thanks again for confirmation.
 
Yes the OEM thermostat fits. I went with a Gates, but either way, our year LS thermostat fits. Its an identical housing except that it's aluminum and a little thinner than the plastic housing.

Along with the crows feet, get a torque wrench and do it to the right specs (89in lbs) or be careful when doing it by hand or you'll end up like me and taking the whole thing off to replace a bad brand new gasket and rebleeding the system because you didn't spare two extra minutes to set a torque wrench....fun times
 
Speaking of, anyone know where to get the gasket for the cap or at least its dimensions so I can get one at a hardware store?

Jaguar wants $18 because they don't sell the seal seperate from the cap. It would still probably be $7 from a dealer anyway
 
I ordered mine a few days ago received it yesterday, i will be installing it tomorrow. Thanks for the help guys!
 
Bump.

~ sorry, need it near the top for now.


- - - EDIT: Ordered.


thanks for all the help.
 
Speaking of, anyone know where to get the gasket for the cap or at least its dimensions so I can get one at a hardware store?

Jaguar wants $18 because they don't sell the seal seperate from the cap. It would still probably be $7 from a dealer anyway

Bump. Anyone?
 
didn't I forget to get one of these before starting the job.

DSC00686.jpg


Almost got the old one out, just them last two tight back bolts and sure enough ... not happening.

The Jag T housing wants to go in there real bad.

gonna have to make some calls or go see the neighbor and go through his tool box.

I do have crows feet open end wrench, just not that small.
5/16" or 8mm, same thing, this whole car is 8mm.

PS: got some coolant on the belts and run down on the front of the motor, problem ?
 
fun times indeed, it's a holiday here today to, stores not open but I've got couple of options.

Does coolant damage belts quickly? It sat overnight.
 
You're probably okay.

just finished cleaning it up and rinsing it off, wasn't all that bad but no matter how much you've drained (in this cause all) from the drain cock on the rad, every time you crack something else open, more coolant flows.


I used Spray-9 to degrease a bit mixed with lukewarm water, a clean paint brush to get into the tight spots and rinsed plenty with warm water.
 

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