All my lovely LS V8 problems....

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proctor

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I would love some help with this situation I'm having, I bought this 01 Lincoln Ls v8 a few days ago and have discovered many a problem.

Here's the list and I would really appreciate help

1) bottom door courtesy lights never actually turn off. While driving, even after I shut it off and lock it and look in window they are still on which keeps killing my battery

2) only at idle the car makes this hideous rattle clanking noise (attached video) timing chain tensioner possible?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xpovFR0g4Ac&feature=youtube_gdata_player

3) mechanic said the calipers are not touching rotor or something and are spitting brake fluid. Any other theories? I kinda forgot exactly what he said

4) a bit of rust under plastic side skirts, how would I go about starting at this?

Any help would be much appreciated thanks in advance!

Also anyone selling a driver side black leather cover for seat?
 
3) The caliper should NEVER touch the rotor. It would help to know EXACTLY what he said.

1) Sounds like a bad door switch. However, I don't know where it's located on the LS.

2) My guess would be tensioners. Should that be the case....... STOP DRIVING IT IMMEDIATELY or you will cause enough damage to warrant a new engine; IMHO.
 
Update: check oil and it was at a quarter, topped it up. Sound has since quited down but still noticeable. Sounds like tensioners. Would anyone be able to sell me some tensioners and ship? Tensioners where I live are more then I paid for the car!
 
LS4me said:
...1) Sounds like a bad door switch. However, I don't know where it's located on the LS....
Click to expand...

The door ajar switch is in the door latch assembly.
I would think he would be complaining about the door ajar message and about the rest of the interior lights staying on if it was the problem. I wonder if a previous owner hasn't messed with the wring, because it seem unlikely that the lights in the door could be on without the rest of the interior lights normally. Also, the battery saver should switch everything off after 30 minutes anyway.
 
Here is what it is doing, checked status system and everything is shut. ONLY the bottom front door courtesy lights are on all the time lol. Doesn't say door ajar or anything. Its really weird
 
proctor said:
Here is what it is doing, checked status system and everything is shut. ONLY the bottom front door courtesy lights are on all the time lol. Doesn't say door ajar or anything. Its really weird
Click to expand...

The negative wire to the light is cut and shorted to ground or otherwise rewired. Why don't you remove the bulb until you figure it out?
 
Haven't really looked into it, I'll definitely get on that tonight.
 
I'm 20 and barely have enough time for school and work let alone on my cars haha. How much would the timing chain tensioner part run me? I can do it myself
 
Cause I had two mercedes e class before and I must say after driving this Lincoln a bit I'm in love with it and forgot about my old Mercedes
 
the tensioner kit is around $250. there are a couple good writeups on doing that job... check the brakes yourself and see whats going on.
 
Ya I'm going to check out the brakes tonight. Also where is that kit for 250$? Is it from The dealer_? Or website
 
I dont know why the check engine lights on. It goes on and off at random times lol
 
proctor said:
I'm 20 and barely have enough time for school and work let alone on my cars haha. How much would the timing chain tensioner part run me? I can do it myself
Click to expand...

Not drop one on your parade, but you have a CEL and knocking noise with a brake problem that was described as "caliper on rotor", that you're not sure what the problems are but are already saying you can replace the tensioners?

Replacing the tensioners i would say is slightly above the weekend warriors abilities. You have to be a stickler for detail (torgue values, alignment) or you'll cause more harm than good.

Get the light checked, pull the wheel and look for worn pad or clips hitting rotor, then do a search on whatever code you have because I'm sure you'll find the info you need.

More than likely your sound is tensioner related. You can think of it like a bike with a loose chain. When it sits, it loose, but when you peddle the force pulls it taught. If that's what is happening then your chain is dangerously loose and your cam timing is off, therefore throwing a code.
 
Alright I'll see If I can rent a code scanner somewhere
 
Alright bit the bullet and Vought a code scanner here's what codes I got. uploadfromtaptalk1393369793750.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1393369793750.jpg
 
Well according to the above codes it looks like there may be hope! Maybe the old owner used cheap 87 gas? Its quieted down a bit after putting in 94
 
proctor said:
Well according to the above codes it looks like there may be hope! Maybe the old owner used cheap 87 gas? Its quieted down a bit after putting in 94
Click to expand...

I don't really see that. (Yes, it will help to put the right gasoline in.)
The lean code could be due to bad COPs and/or you may have an intake air (vacuum) leak somewhere.

The wheel speed sensor problem is not unheard of. At worst, you may need a new front hub to solve that. Certainly, whatever you have going on with leaking caliper(s) is a bigger issue.
 
I'll do a smoke test on it tonight to find any leaks
 
joegr said:
I don't really see that. (Yes, it will help to put the right gasoline in.)
The lean code could be due to bad COPs and/or you may have an intake air (vacuum) leak somewhere.

The wheel speed sensor problem is not unheard of. At worst, you may need a new front hub to solve that. Certainly, whatever you have going on with leaking caliper(s) is a bigger issue.
Click to expand...

You could also try removing the speed sensor and shooting a little WD-40 in the hole. I think I read Andrizzle doing that in another members thread. I had the same code and hit it with a few short bursts and no more problems.

To the OP, the wheel sensor is easy to locate as it is the only electrical wire running along the brake line right into the back of the hub. It is held on by a squarish retaining clip that you pull up with a screw driver and pull the sensor out. Shoot the WD-40 in and reverse the procedure.....20 min job tops.

If not it could be damge to the wire, the wire connector which is behind the wheel well cover, or just a shot sensor/hub. But 20 minutes and a $4 can of lubricant can be a time/$ saver.
 
Hi there, I just did that wd40 trick and it worked! No more code for that.
 
I have a new problem for you guys, I purchased a beautiful black leather wrapped 01 Ls steering wheel with the wood trim insert (thats what I wanted) for my car. The problem I am having is I got the air bag out and everything and disconnectd all wires and took the center bolt out of the middle which holds the wheel in place. The wheel will not budge at all! Any ideas how I can loosen it and get it off? Tried pulling as hard as I can and nothing worked
 
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