Alignment guy says the only thing adjustable on my LS...

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Archer28

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is the toe in? Is he right?
My wife took it in after we put on a new set of Kumhos, and now its pulling to the right. I'm going to check the pressure today, but I'm not sure this alignment guy knows what he's talking about.

I knew it wasn't right when the missus said he told her "I got it as close as I could" :(
 
Along with the toe, front camber is also adjustable. All of us lowered LS owners know this very well.

So I'd say it's time for you to take your LS to a "Professional" alignment shop and have it checked out.
 
LS'es don't come with any adjustment for caster/camber. At least mine didn't. I had to buy caster/camber cam bolts from RockAuto.com.
 
rear camber is not adjustable though correct?
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Correct, only the toe is adjustable in the rear.

LS'es don't come with any adjustment for caster/camber. At least mine didn't. I had to buy caster/camber cam bolts from RockAuto.com.
Click to expand...

Incorrect, the front camber is adjustable. It takes a good pro with modern equipment to properly align an LS. My 1" dropped LS was aligned, within factory specs, without the need for cam bolts.
 
I guess the state of the art laser alignment machine at my friend's Audi dealership is crap then lol
 
Operator error.... don't check the machine, check the guy using the machine and making the corrections.

Seeing the out of spec alignment numbers on the monitor is one thing, knowing how to adjust the suspension to correct it is another. The machine would have told the tech how to align your LS without the cam bolts if he had bothered to look and do a little work.
 
My front needed the bolts simply cause it was worn out from what I was told but it was barley out of spec at all so I left it be.

The front can be alligned if the bolts or what have you are still in good condition with out the kit but some of the kits are cheap, but the rear is not able to be adjusted.

The shop that tested mine wanted about 200 for everything in the end, the kit and the install but like I said it was barely out so I left it be.

Can you adjust the rear with the LEDA suspension kit?
 
Also, the guy that did mine did find it in his computer but the rear was not found telling him the front could be adjusted but not the rear.

I didnt do it myself so I am only going by what I was told.
 
T_Man said:
Operator error.... don't check the machine, check the guy using the machine and making the corrections.

Seeing the out of spec alignment numbers on the monitor is one thing, knowing how to adjust the suspension to correct it is another. The machine would have told the tech how to align your LS without the cam bolts if he had bothered to look and do a little work.
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Your a funny guy. You dont need the machine to tell you how to do the alignment, if you know the dynamics of alignment you know how to make adjustments correctly. You could get away without the bolts because the control arm bolt holes are elongated and you could pry the controls arms to the positions, but to make small adjustments would be difficult, it is a lot easier to do small adjustments with the adjustment bolts, which by the way Lincoln should have included, it is bull:q:q:q:q that they do not. If your car has been aligned before it is possible the adjustment bolts might be there. I dont know if you do alignments or you pay someone for yours, but these cars have a pretty simple front end to align, you should not need to go through pictures and have the machine tell you where and how to adjust.
 
4/4 friends of mine that lowered their car had to buy camber kits..... I just figured no cars included them.
 
NYC LSC said:
I'll be sure to show him this thread since he posts here. :D
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I hope he learns something.

These are the facts:
I installed myself, with the help of 2 friends, Eibach springs on my 2006 LS with less than 3,000 miles on the odometer. I then drove my LS to my favorite alignment shop and watched as the technician put my LS up on the rack and pulled all the numbers from all four wheels.

The before spec. on the front was -1.31 deg. Camber, -0.24 deg. Toe.

As I stood next to the computer monitor and watched him loosen & pull the alignment into spec., we talked about cars, sports and women. No added parts needed.

The after spec. on the front was -0.29 deg. Camber, 0.03 deg. Toe.
Both sides were and are within .05 deg. of each other and the Cross Camber is 0.24 deg. All well within the factory specification.

After 18,000 miles, it still drives straight & true and the tires show no abnormal wear.

Your Mileage May Vary.
 
T_Man said:
I hope he learns something.

These are the facts:
I installed myself, with the help of 2 friends, Eibach springs on my 2006 LS with less than 3,000 miles on the odometer. I then drove my LS to my favorite alignment shop and watched as the technician put my LS up on the rack and pulled all the numbers from all four wheels.

The before spec. on the front was -1.31 deg. Camber, -0.24 deg. Toe.

As I stood next to the computer monitor and watched him loosen & pull the alignment into spec., we talked about cars, sports and women. No added parts needed.

The after spec. on the front was -0.29 deg. Camber, 0.03 deg. Toe.
Both sides were and are within .05 deg. of each other and the Cross Camber is 0.24 deg. All well within the factory specification.

After 18,000 miles, it still drives straight & true and the tires show no abnormal wear.

Your Mileage May Vary.
Click to expand...
.

I did learn something, who I am dealing with!!!!!!! Did you read my response where it says"it can be done with out the bolts, just a little more difficult to get small adjustments. I dont know where you got the idea to write operator error in the first place when you dont know me or how his alignment was done and the outcome. You must know it all I guess????

This is why I dont respond much because everyone knows it all, not that I do, but I do have some knowledge and I am ASE certified, been working on cars 25 years.

The thread was started with someone asking a question, simple answer would be to tell him there are more adjustments than just Toe adjustments
 
If you look up at the third post in this thread, I believe I did that.

You may also want to re-read posts 4 through 6 for clarification.

I'm sorry I upset you Nick, I didn't realize you were so sensitive. In the future, I will refrain from posting in your direction.
 
I have the eibach's installed, took it to my local firestone, and voila, completely within spec's, and NO additional parts. They had it completely done within an hour.

To all who said it is the operator/alignment specialist, you are correct.
 
Here are the alignment directions right from Alldata, again you CAN do it without them, it is just suggested to use them!!!!!You cant see the pictures the way I pasted the article



Camber and Caster Adjustment

NOTE: If the vehicle is equipped with hex head bolts in the lower control arm, new cam bolts and lock nuts must be installed before adjusting the cast and camber. The camber and caster adjustment for the LH side is shown. The procedure for adjusting the RH side is similar.







Vehicles without camber and caster adjustment cam bolts


Remove two bolts, one pushpin and the splash shield.








Remove and discard the pinch bolt. Disconnect the steering shaft.








Remove three lock nuts and bolts. Discard the lock nuts.








Raise and support the front end and the No. 2 crossmember.
Position two 4 inch x 4 inch pieces of wood between the No. 2 crossmember and the lifting device.








Remove and discard the front nut and bolt.








Install the caster adjustment cam bolt and a new lock nut.
The bolt must be installed from the rear as shown.
Install the bolt with the cam lobe down.
The cam must be seated between the cam guides on the No. 1 crossmember.
Position the steering gear aside.








Remove and discard the rear nut and bolt.








Loosely, install the camber adjustment cam bolt, a new lock nut and the I-brace bracket (if equipped).
The bolt must be installed from the rear as shown.
Install the bolt with the cam lobe down.
The cam must be seated in the groove in the No. 2 crossmember.
Lower the front end.








Install the steering gear, three bolts and new lock nuts.








Connect the steering shaft. Install a new pinch bolt.
All vehicles


Measure the wheel alignment values. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions.






Vehicles requiring caster adjustment


Rotate the caster adjustment cam bolt (front) to adjust the caster.
Recheck the alignment settings. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Readjust as necessary.






Vehicles requiring camber adjustment



NOTE: Adjustments to the camber impact the toe settings. Therefore, the camber and toe may need to be adjusted at the same time to get the correct values. Both the LH and RH toe need to be adjusted when adjusting the camber. Loosen the jam nut. Remove the clamp.
Clean and lubricate the jam nut and front wheel spindle tie-rod threads.








NOTE: Do not allow the steering gear bellows to twist when the front wheel spindle tie-rod is rotated. Rotate the front wheel spindle tie-rod to adjust the toe.








NOTE: To aid in accurate camber and toe measurements, support the front suspension lower arm by hand while rotating the camber adjustment cam bolt. Rotate the camber adjustment cam bolt (rear) to adjust the camber.
Repeat the above camber adjustment steps until the correct camber and toe measurements are achieved.






All vehicles


Tighten the nut.








Tighten the nut.








Tighten the nut. Install the clamp.
Recheck the alignment settings. Follow the equipment manufacturer's instructions. Readjust the caster as necessary.








Install the splash shield, one pushpin, and two bolts.










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Terms of Use
 
OUCH!...

J/K,.. it sucks that you couldnt get the pictures up, it looks like a interesting job to try out on your own.
 
Thanks for the replies all. Looks like my stock 03 with stock-sized tires should be close already. Really odd that alignment is an issue on such a nice suspension system as the LS.
 
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