Airbag light/traction

[DenisM09]

my airbag light usuallly flashes but sometimes stays off for 10 seconds and also


when start up only my CEL and Airbag Light are on, but when driving, my headlights are on, and the lights start to flicker and then it says "check tractional control" and gets the traction control light on and the abs light as well, and then it drives fine no flickering or repeating of this. anyone have a clue to why this is happening.

 

[joegr]

You know, a little searching could go a very long way for you...

The SRS light flashes out a two digit code (three flashes, pause, six flashes, pause, repeat, ...) would be code 36. See what yours is, and it will tell you where to start looking for the problem. Two most common gen I problems are the clockspring, and the wiring under the driver's seat.

Plug a voltmeter in and drive around with it. Your alternator may be failing, or you may have some loose wiring.

 

[All2kool]

You know, a little searching could go a very long way for you...

The SRS light flashes out a two digit code (three flashes, pause, six flashes, pause, repeat, ...) would be code 36. See what yours is, and it will tell you where to start looking for the problem. Two most common gen I problems are the clockspring, and the wiring under the driver's seat.

Plug a voltmeter in and drive around with it. Your alternator may be failing, or you may have some loose wiring.

Which one can visually inspect. Move the Seat all the way forward and look under the seat at the Yellow plug. Many times, the wires are broken. I had to splice in a replacement plug that fell into my tool box at the Pick-N-Pull.

 

[joegr]

... that fell into my tool box at the Pick-N-Pull.

Odd. The pick-n-pulls around here don't charge for stuff like that if you are honest with them and have been there a few times. No need to steal, ever.

 

[All2kool]

Odd. The pick-n-pulls around here don't charge for stuff like that if you are honest with them and have been there a few times. No need to steal, ever.

I spent $40 that day on other parts and honestly had forgotten the Plug at check-out.

 

[Telco]

Odd. The pick-n-pulls around here don't charge for stuff like that if you are honest with them and have been there a few times. No need to steal, ever.

The one I use has said don't worry about things like wire, fuses and plugs so often I don't bother mentioning it anymore. Relays now, that's another story. They want almost as much for relays as you can buy new ones for, so I just buy new ones.

 

[joegr]

My son left his tool box (and tools) at a local junkyard. It didn't realize this for a few days. They had it waiting for him when he went back looking for it.

 

[1LoudLS]

They had it waiting for him when he went back looking for it.

how much were they asking for it? lol

 

[DenisM09]

You know, a little searching could go a very long way for you...

The SRS light flashes out a two digit code (three flashes, pause, six flashes, pause, repeat, ...) would be code 36. See what yours is, and it will tell you where to start looking for the problem. Two most common gen I problems are the clockspring, and the wiring under the driver's seat.

Plug a voltmeter in and drive around with it. Your alternator may be failing, or you may have some loose wiring.

wiring under drivers seat is good and the clockspring my media controls and cruis still work would that still be the clockspring if both those still work

 

[joegr]

wiring under drivers seat is good and the clockspring my media controls and cruis still work would that still be the clockspring if both those still work

What code is it flashing out?
How did you verify the wring was good?
Yes, one part of the clockspring can fail while other parts still work.

 

[DenisM09]

ill have the flashing code at 11:30
i unpluged the wiring or the drivers seat and checked if anything was loose or cut, but did not find any

 

[joegr]

ill have the flashing code at 11:30
i unpluged the wiring or the drivers seat and checked if anything was loose or cut, but did not find any

You are doing it wrong. There is no 11 30 code. It flashes out two (single) digit codes over and over. Neither of the digits will be more than 9 or less than 1. Try again.
Just looking at the wiring won't verify continuity. The wire could be broken inside the insulation. You really need to correct count the code to know where to look for the problem.

 

[DenisM09]

Its 36 @joegr. I meant i can go check the code at 11:15am

 

[joegr]

Its 36 @joegr. I meant i can go check the code at 11:15am

It's probably the connector under the driver's seat. If not, then it's the connector (or wiring) in the seat itself.

 

[RigsLS]

Disconnect the battery, wait more then 30min. Snip one lead at a time at both ends of the connector. Solder straight across, eliminating the connector. Use heat shrink tubing.

 

[FDR]

Disconnect the battery, wait more then 30min. Snip one lead at a time at both ends of the connector. Solder straight across, eliminating the connector. Use heat shrink tubing.

If you're going that route, you should probably add some wire in the middle to alleviate the strain placed on the wire since it's not very long from the factory. Easy Entry fatigues the wire by moving, yet the seat positioning wires work just fine. The airbag wire, on the other hand, is not part of that bundle

 

[joegr]

Also, this appears to be a problem that was solved on gen II (though some are convinced there were no improvements). I don't recall hearing of any failures of the seat SRS connector/wiring on gen II (or clockspring failures for that matter).

 

[RigsLS]

I don't recall the wiring being all that short, seemed to me there was plenty even after the connector delete. I also don't actually make use of the Easy Entry feature so seat stays in place always.

Anyhow when my 1st GEN had this same issue I resolved it by means of eliminating the connector. (Don't plan on removing the seat from the car every week, month, year or this decade)

 

[1LoudLS]

I don't recall hearing of any failures of the seat SRS connector/wiring on gen II (or clockspring failures for that matter).

pretty sure I've got one going out right now... only my mute button for SW controls works, none of the other buttons do anything (sometimes, if I hold next track down fro a while it will jump tracks but rarely will it)

I keep being "that guy" and saying its not the clock spring... but if it walks like a duck...

Ive kinda just been biding my time for a little over a year now hoping that either the horn, ciruise control, or the SRS light comes on to confirm it for me, but of course I'm not that lucky. I keep telling my self that its probably the buttonsd themselves that are broke from all the times I kept pudhing real hard on them back when I had the AVIC F-series and they had that stupid delay!

 

[joegr]

... I keep telling my self that its probably the buttonsd themselves that are broke from all the times I kept pudhing real hard on them back when I had the AVIC F-series and they had that stupid delay!

I had a failed button board (for the cruise) on my 04. It is easy enough to remove and test them.

 

[DenisM09]

Disconnect the battery, wait more then 30min. Snip one lead at a time at both ends of the connector. Solder straight across, eliminating the connector. Use heat shrink tubing.

i also have a code going too, B1994 Driver side airbag open circuit

ill end up probably doing this

 

[1LoudLS]

I had a failed button board (for the cruise) on my 04. It is easy enough to remove and test them.

do they just pop out or is there a special trick?

 

[joegr]

do they just pop out or is there a special trick?

Remove the steering wheel airbag (two bolts at the back of the steering wheel), and then there is/are one or two (I forget) screws that hold each button board assembly.

 

[DenisM09]

so joe i found the yelllo plug cut, i toook the two wires and electrical taped them for now. What do i need to do from here

 

[joegr]

Are you sure the wires didn't break, as opposed to being cut?
Replace the plug or bypass it and splice the wires (be sure to solder).
I am a bit confused. You said "wiring under drivers seat is good" Now you show that it clearly is not. It's hard to impossible to give good advice when false info is given.