Air Conditioning Question
- Thread starter JPHCCFC
- Start date
Bullschmidt
LVC Photographer
Dccv
taylor414ce2003
Dedicated LVC Member
my guess would be low on refrigerant,and if it is low, it means there is a leak.
Bullschmidt
LVC Photographer
If it needs recharged its not. You can get a can to do it for about $20.
DCCV can be done on your own. There is a writeup around here somewhere. Search for it.
DCCV can be done on your own. There is a writeup around here somewhere. Search for it.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Many people seem to get confused about the fresh air filter. The status display of 21% is just an estimated thing. It means that there is about 21% filter life remaining. After that, you will need to replace the filter. It doesn't measure anything about the filter. It just knows that the car has run x hours and y miles since the last time someone reset the filter change message. If you don't like it saying 21%, then reset it to say 100%, or change the filter and reset the display to 100%, or change the filter and leave the display counting down from 21%. The car won't care either way.
None of this has anything at all to do with your air-conditioning not working.
If heated (very hot) air blows out of one or both sides, then your DCCV has failed. This is a common issue. It's a dual valve that controls the circulation of hot water in the dual heater cores. The solution is to replace it. If you can't do it yourself, then expect this to cost about $300.
If non-cooled (but not hot) air blows out of both sides, then probably your AC compressor is not running. If this is the case, you can set the temperature to 90 and the outlet air should get much hotter than when you had it set to 60. Usually, if the compressor is not running it will be because the R-134 refrigerant has leaked out. The leak will have to be found and corrected and the system evacuated and recharged. This will range from $100 to $2000, depending on where the leak is and what damage was done before it all leaked out.
couldnt get the diagnostics test to work on the DATC on my 2000 lincolc. Pressed OFF and DEFROST simultaneously then pressed AUTO within 2 seconds and it just started the AC set at 68 degrees!! any ideas am i doing something stupidly wrong!!
Cheers joegr will the DATC module test signal whether the air compressor is not working?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
I believe this is the correct procedure for the gen I. (off and floor, not off and defrost)
Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes—DTCs)
On-demand DTCs are those that are reported by an ECU when a failure is detected while executing a diagnostic test. For the DATC module this means that all faults (hard) that occur while the module is conducting a self-test shall be reported as an on-demand DTC.
* The DATC module self-test will not detect concerns associated with data link messages such as engine coolant temperature or vehicle speed signals. The scan tool must be used to retrieve these concerns.
* The vehicle interior temperature should be between 0-32°C (32-90°F) when carrying out the self-test. If the temperatures are not within the specified ranges, false temperature sensor DTCs may be displayed.
The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:
* can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
* is entered by pressing the OFF and FLOOR buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show counts of 1 to 25 in the center of the display window. Record all DTCs displayed.
* concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
* reports individual on-demand DTCs as four-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
* will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
* will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
* will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.
To exit the self-test, press any button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed DTCs will continue to be displayed.
Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
If a condition exists but no DTCs appear during the self-test, GO to Symptom Chart Condition: The DATC System Is Inoperative, Intermittent or Incorrect Operation.
Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned OFF).
Front Panel DATC Module Display—Retrieve Continuous Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
Continuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.
* To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and PANEL buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the AUTO button within two seconds.
* The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
* The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
* All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
* Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
* DTCs shall be reported as a four-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
* Pressing the front defrost button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
* Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
* Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Only partially (only some faults are detected with the clutch circuit, others are not.)
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Okay, that doesn't really help you much. Mechanical failure of the DCCV is not detected by the diagnostics, only electrical problems. Mechanical failure of the AC clutch, or low R-134 levels are also not detected.
1. Does it blow un-cooled air, or very hot air?
2. Can you see or hear if the AC compressor is turning on or not? (It may be easier to look up at it from under the car, than to look down from under the hood.)
Ok when I turn it on I hear a noise as if air is being dispelled! When I select 90 the heat gets really hot. When I select down to 65 the air gets cooler but definately not ice cold cool typical with ac. The drivers ac is definately cooler than the passenger side. If I knock down to 60 then its still cooler on the driver side
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Sounds like low R-134a level. You can add some yourself, but only if you monitor at least the low side pressure while doing so. (I would also monitor the high side.) If adding refrigerant makes it work like it should, then you are still not done. The AC system doesn't consume refrigerant, so if it is low, then you have a leak somewhere. If you plan to keep the car for a while, the leak should be fixed. Constantly refilling the R-134 will contaminate the system.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, you can get R134 at an auto store or even Walmart. I assume you don't have a set of pressure gauges, and that you don't want to invest in one. That being the case, you need to get the can that has a pressure gauge and hose already attached.
Follow the directions on the can. Holding the can the right way up is very important. The car needs to be running with the AC on while you are filling it.
Search this forum for the low side fill port for the AC system. It is down near the compressor, and has been hard for some to find. I seem to recall that someone posted some pictures of it.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
At the beginning of the season three years ago, I noticed that the AC was giving me cool but not cold air. After about ten years of searching, I finally figured out where the filler point is and refilled with R-134 containing a colored leak indicator and a sealer. I couldn't find any colored spots but the sealer has done a bang-up job and the AC is still cooling just fine. Since I already owned the adapter hose to do the filling, the total cost for the job was about ten bux!
KS
KS
OK so i have located the thread that has the pics and it seems i can turn the drivers wheel side to the left and should be able to refill from that point, but how would i go about discharging the AC first? do i need to discharge it or can i just refill with the R134 and selaer that was recommended by cammerfe - it sounds quite easy but i really am a car phobe....do you think I would be safer getting a professional to check it out! Ive only had the car one day and dont want to cause any damage, but if it really is as simple as turning the wheel and connecting a hose and pressing the cannister knob then i will give it a go!
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
NO! NO! NO!
Do not discharge it. If you do, then (1) you will need a vacuum pump to evacuate it, and (2) you will need to add compressor oil, and (3) one can on R-134 will not be enough.
Just use the can to top it off. There's no reason to waste the perfectly good R-134 and compressor oil that is already in there.
managed to get a full ac refill at the local garage, the air is ice cold now so hopefully that will solve the issue! If it degrades over the next few weeks/months then i know there is a leak so will have to take the next step, but thanks to all you guys for your support, I was even able to show the mechanic where the low side pressure port was!!!!