AdvanceTrac Light

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skizot722

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First, I want to mention that I've searched through the existing AdvanceTrac threads on here, and am still not quite sure what's up with my car. '02 Lincoln LS V8 120k miles, and I just had a whole array of front-end suspension components replaced this week: new upper and lower control arms on both passenger and driver side. New knuckles as well. And the guy said he had to install a camber/toe kit because what was there "wasn't right". No idea what he's talking about there, but I wasn't in much of a position to argue with my car sitting in pieces.

Anywho, they didn't replace the wheel hubs, which as I understand it contains both the wheel bearing, and also ABS sensor. I drove it home without issue, but decided to take it for a couple 30 mile trips last night. Noticed that the "check advancetrack" message flashed and then the AdvanceTrac light (squiggly lines with car in orange) illuminated on the dash and would not go off. During this time, the AdvanceTrac button had no impact - it wouldn't turn on/off or make the light go out. It stayed on for about 10 minutes so I pulled over, turned the car off, and started it back up. Light went off after shutting off and restarting. Drove it more, and probably another 5 miles or so, exact same thing - "check advancetrack" message flashed and then the AdvanceTrac light came on and stayed on.

A couple of questions: the steering angle sensor is said to be the culprit sometimes, but unsure why it would just start going bad after having all of the front-end work done - it's in the cabin of the car, correct? If the tech had futzed something up with the ABS sensors while replacing the knuckles, I would likely have the ABS light coming on along with the AdvanceTrac light, correct? My situation doesn't seem to fit what I've read in other threads, so unsure what this might be. Will be calling the shop as well soon. Any ideas in the meantime?


Thanks!
 
hello having the same problem with my 2002 LSE after having about same work done. Had wheel sensor put on the light stayed off until I got home then it came back on.
after reading the manual it tell me to change out the hub.
only thing I have figure which wheel hub is bad.
if you figure why it staying on send thread.
 

skizot722​

The most likely issue for you is the steering angle sensor. In doing the suspension work, the mechanic may not have the steering correctly centered now. There are other possibilities too. Using Forscan would tell you with some certainty if it is the steering angle, the yaw sensor, the booster, or the ABS module.

Fast Rick​

You say you have the same problem, but it really sounds like you don't Any problem with any of the wheel speed sensors will also turn on the ABS light. Is your ABS light coming on? If so, your issue is different. (Any problem with the ABS will always also trigger the AdvanceTrac light, since AdvanceTrac needs the ABS to work.)
 
Thanks, joegr. Can you tell me more about Forscan? Is this something I can find easily and cheaply myself to hook up to the car to read that data? When you say he may not have the steering correctly centered now, can you tell me what you mean there?
 
You just need a little $18 dongle (and in my case, a $10 USB A to USB C adapter, thanks Dell) and to download the software, which is free unless you wanna code keys to the car.

Dongle: amazon.com/dp/B083FML519/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_8YYQZADT99ZQWJ30EMNX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Once you got it, you have to install the drivers for the scanner (there's a how to video on the Amazon page). Follow that, and you should be able to connect to your car without a hitch.
 
RyLS - Awesome, thanks! Will this software let me run the re-calibration if that's what is now required to get this AdvanceTrac issue straightened out?
 
skizot722 said:
RyLS - Awesome, thanks! Will this software let me run the re-calibration if that's what is now required to get this AdvanceTrac issue straightened out?
Click to expand...
I honestly couldn't tell you if Forscan can do programming, since I havent had to go that far with it yet. Joe would be your expert on that.

What I can tell you is that you will be able to perform the self tests that a dealer would be able to
 
skizot722 said:
RyLS - Awesome, thanks! Will this software let me run the re-calibration if that's what is now required to get this AdvanceTrac issue straightened out?
Click to expand...
Yes, usually it can.
 
Thanks, guys. Will check it out. So far I've been able to re-trigger the light every time I drive the car. Although it takes 10-15 minutes of driving before it comes back.

No luck with the shop. Guy was a total a$$hole, saying over and over "I did everything by the book. I didn't cause any issues. I've been doing this for 45 years, zero chance I caused this. blah blah blah". It's getting harder and harder to find reputable shops these days. Really makes me consider getting rid of the LS and buying something I can just have the stealership do under the 10/100 warranties. Still love my LS though, so it's tough.
 
skizot722 said:
It's getting harder and harder to find reputable shops these days
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God, I feel this so much. Ever since I moved to FL it's been a struggle to find a shop that can actually do what they're supposed to do and not rip me off. The first prick I took my car to charged me $800 to put a steering rack in it, only to put a reman rack in it, and to somehow fuck up my LCAs bushings.
 
The first prick I took my car to charged me $800 to put a steering rack in it, only to put a reman rack in it
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Yep, exactly. That's what all shops do these days. They take garbage, Chinese made, aftermarket parts and charge you 3-4x markup on the parts in the name of "warranty". So you end up spending more than the Ford/Motorcraft price for the part and then get to replace it again in a couple of years. That's why I told these guys to be careful with the hubs, because the bearings and ABS sensors were still fine and I didn't feel like putting in more cheap aftermarket garbage.
 
joegr said:
The most likely issue for you is the steering angle sensor. In doing the suspension work, the mechanic may not have the steering correctly centered now. There are other possibilities too. Using Forscan would tell you with some certainty if it is the steering angle, the yaw sensor, the booster, or the ABS module.
Click to expand...

Yup... sometimes aligment shops cheat and only align the front wheels. So if the car "dog tracks" slightly, the angle sensor might be off just enough to get confused.
 
Everything being said here is just another case for dealer service and parts.

IIRC... the last time I did suspension work on my LS... the dealer alignment was $100-125... but that was years ago.
 
Sometimes (if it's off enough) the angle sensor might apply a front brake. Loose steering rack bolts can cause that if the mechanic tries to "cheat" on the alignment.
 
Should have the cable / dongle today. Say I hook it up and it tells me that it requires recalibration. Is that really the best route here, or is there now something wrong with my frontend that needs corrected from whatever this shop changed?

Another update: after driving it some last night, the AdvanceTrac light now comes on immediately when I start the car, and it stays on the entire time. Not sure if that means things have gotten further out of whack after driving it now or what vs. day before where it took 10-15 minutes of driving to trigger it.
 
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Just pulled the codes and one is set for the ABS module. The code is: C1285 Booster Solenoid Output Failure. Any ideas on that one?
 
Whelp, found the issue. And the explanation is pure idiot. The tech that did the work broke the power brake booster electrical connector. Not just disconnected, but completely broke it.

PXL_20211023_194730654.jpg


PXL_20211023_194634534.jpg
 
Take the car back to the mechanic... show him what he did... and demand a partial refund of services.

Then walk (drive) away and don't look back.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Take the car back to the mechanic... show him what he did... and demand a partial refund of services.

Then walk (drive) away and don't look back.
Click to expand...
Worst comes to worst, theres a lovely little 1-800 number on the back of every credit card...
 
Yeah, if they don't want to fix it - and I mean completely replace the power brake booster - then I'll have the credit card company do a charge back for the full amount. And this guy knows he broke the thing, as when I found it, it was jammed back in the socket. What tipped me off was the broken pieces of white plastic sticking out around the connector.

What pisses me off the most is that this guy was a complete a$$hole on the phone to me. Saying nonsense like "you knew it was broken when you brought it to us" ... "I knew I shouldn't have agreed to do these repairs" ... "I told you that you should have replaced the ABS sensors". Complete clown and he knew exactly what he did. People make mistakes. But you have to own it and make it right. Not try to cover it up and act defensive when the customer calls you about something being broken after your work.

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PXL_20211023_193704449.jpg
 
Wow, just wow.
The only fix is to replace the brake booster.
 
This is where Yelp and other review sites help weed out the riff raff.

Always do an online review search on any repair shop before patronizing them.
 
I did my research. This place has a 4.8 out of 5 stars on Google, with over 150 reviews. Problems can happen at any shop.
 
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