Actual RMS watts on factory Alpine system?

1CleanLs

1CleanLs

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Does anyone know what is the actual RMS output of the factory Alpine 6 audio system on the 03 Ls? My front speaker is buzzing so I would like to replace it with an after market one that matches the wattage on the factory amp. Thanks
 
doesnt matter, any aftermarket speaker you buy will have a higher RMS ratting that the radio puts out, so they all will work, since you dont have a high powered aftermarket amp, just pick your speaker based on how it sounds.
 
I know that any speaker will work, I just want to match the wattage as close as possible to avoid distortion specially at higher volume. I will probably go for a speaker in the 30-50 watt rms with a high efficiency to get the most out of them......thanks
 
^ most of the time, higher power handling = heavier duty parts = more mass = less efficient.

but also the amount of drivers will make a difference, 4 and 5 way speakers, are usually less efficient as 1 or 2 way speakers.
 
Yeah I would imagine it would be a nightmare trying to match up any after market speaker to the OEM ones. I would definitely replace both or your sound stage is gonna be real weird
 
Actually running too low of wattage is just as bad as to high, you also have to match the impedance. It would be best to get new 6x9's and an amp to match
 
1CleanLs said:
Does anyone know what is the actual RMS output of the factory Alpine 6 audio system on the 03 Ls? My front speaker is buzzing so I would like to replace it with an after market one that matches the wattage on the factory amp. Thanks
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I installed Infinity Reference speakers years ago prior to my amp install. They worked well with the base radio. IIRC the Alpine system puts out about 240 watts.
 
2002_lincolnLS said:
It would be best to get new 6x9's and an amp to match
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how the hell is a 6x9 going to fit into the front door?

impedance is pretty much easy as pie, there are very very few aftermarket speakers that are not 4 ohm.
 
1LoudLS said:
how the hell is a 6x9 going to fit into the front door?

impedance is pretty much easy as pie, there are very very few aftermarket speakers that are not 4 ohm.
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He probably meant 6x8/5x8 which fit in all 4 doors.
I'm running Infinity Kappas rated 100 watts rms each powered by an old school Rockford 600a4.
They're about 80.00 a pair on ebay.
If you are ever going to add more power later you may want to consider the upgrade now.
 
I will replace both for sure. I really like the MB Quart speakers. I have had several and love their sound quality. Thanks for all the info!
 
I do have another ? for you guys.....what would be a good amp to add to the Ls that wouldn't put too much strain on my alternator/electrical system? I debating between a powered bazooka tube and upgraded front speakers or a small amp pushing a 10" and upgraded fronts?
 
I heard of someone using the fuse box in the trunk for the amp turn on lead.....is that good? I want to keep all amp connections in the trunk if possible (i think they used the fuel pump fuse)
 
Use a line output converter and run it off one of the speaker outputs.
 
hook up the loc on the wires coming out the amp into the factory subs and also use the + of one of those for the remote lead?
 
BlackLS06 said:
You can run 1000rms all day long and be fine.
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i do not believe so, 1kw watts is a hell of a lot of power, a decent 1kw amp can consume well over 100 amps. if you tried to pull an extra 100 amps out of your factory charging system all day long, your going to run into failures, it may fail soon, you may get lucky it may last for awhile. the alts are just not built to handle that. as long as you give the system plenty of time to recuperate in between some of the listening, and make sure that the battery is not draining completely dead and has time to receive some charge, you may be able to not burn your OEM alt up.
 
I haven't had any issues as of yet. Couple other members on here run that much rms on stock electrical.

Also I beleive the gen II alt provides 110 amps and I know not all of those are being used to run the accessories of the car.
 
1CleanLs said:
I heard of someone using the fuse box in the trunk for the amp turn on lead.....is that good? I want to keep all amp connections in the trunk if possible (i think they used the fuel pump fuse)
Click to expand...

My remote is running off the fuel pump relay not the fuse. It's still mounted in the spare tire well. I believe the fuse is powered constantly. My LOC didn't have a remote hookup on it or something or another, and it was what we came up with during the install.

To further input the 1000w rms debate. That's what my system is hooked up for without an issue thus far. Like you said though, I give it time to recuperate as I don't listen to it at "level 11" for too long anyway. Maybe that will change when I build a higher tuned box.
 
BlackLS06 said:
I haven't had any issues as of yet. Couple other members on here run that much rms on stock electrical.
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doesn't mean its not going to be an issue, while not every accessory is on and being used, there still is a lot of thing running just to keep this car going sucking down juice. math is math, the power has got to come from somewhere.
 
Yeah...any way to meter the stuff?

Im only running 4ohms right now so around half power of the amp which is around 600rms given that im providing it a healthy 14 volts and i dont see any dimming even with the HID's and everything on. I get some minimal dimming at 2ohms but thats over 1200rms.
 
1LoudLS said:
how the hell is a 6x9 going to fit into the front door?

impedance is pretty much easy as pie, there are very very few aftermarket speakers that are not 4 ohm.
Click to expand...

I am not sure why but i thought He was talking about the rear deck speakers, but same applies to the others just change the dimensions
 
When I had my old, extremely inefficient system, I never noticed my HID's dimming when the rest of the lights (dash, fogs, brake lights, etc.) would be when the system hit.
 
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